The book was published by the Book Club "Family Leisure Club" publishing house in 2014.
"Big book of cutting and sewing"
Russian language
Cover: hardback
Pages: 448
Format: 135x205 mm
Illustrations: b/w
Publisher: "Family Leisure Club"
Год издания: 2014
Introduction
Today, sewing has become easy - a lot of technology, a lot of ready-made patterns, fabrics, accessories and information on the Internet. As they say, take it - I don’t want it! ..
Thanks to this, tailoring professions are gaining again the popularity lost in the 90s of the last century.
This book was created primarily for those who want to create a small home atelier, sew clothes for individual orders and small batches for sale.
Unfortunately, this book will not be able to contain all the new trends in cutting and sewing, so stay with me, my dear Readers and Readers!
Vera Olkhovskaya
Book's contents
Introduction, General Information
What is cutting technique
Where to begin
Taking measurements from the figure of the customer, The procedure for taking measurements, Measures for trousers, Allowances for free fit, Table of measurements, "Grid", Basics, Working pattern, Basic pattern
Construction of the basic pattern of the product
Patterns for mass tailoring
Typology of figures and standardization of sizes, Tables of measurements of a conditionally proportional female, Interval of indifference, Glossary of terms, Features of cutting and tailoring "extras"
Fitting
Trying on as a stage in the development of a model for mass tailoring, Trying on in individual tailoring, How mistakes made when taking measurements appear on the fitting, Once again about the features of the figure (how to display the features of the figure in styles for mass tailoring and for individual tailoring using examples), Basic pattern correction.
Construction of patterns for various products
Skirt
Straight skirt - cut without patterns!, Straight skirt with one seam, Straight skirt with a vent and one opposite (bow) pleat, Straight skirt with a wrap, Extended skirt based on a straight line, Straight skirt as a basis for modeling, With or without a belt? That's the question!, Straight skirt in mass production.
Darts and reliefs in a skirt
Embossed skirt, Asymmetric embossed skirt, Embossed skirt with pockets, Marking various skirts in a circular pleat,
Straight blouse
Blouse without darts and T-shirt, Shelf for a straight blouse with a side dart for the bust, Shelf for a straight blouse with a dart for the chest from the armhole, Shelf for a straight blouse with a dart for the chest from the shoulder seam, Games with additions, Blouse and parka one pattern each
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All patterns of blouses, vests and corsets...
Semi-fitting blouse
Blouse with darts, Blouse with reliefs, Blouse with semi-reliefs, Base for sheath dress and coat - what's the difference?
Armhole
High armhole and features of the construction of the bodice with such an armhole, Low armhole and "kimono", Modeling the line of the armhole based on the "kimono"
The bodice is adjacent
Adjacent bodice and pattern for modeling - what's the difference. Transfer of darts, Offset of darts, Ways of copying darts in individual and mass production
Boards: processing and cutting
Single-breasted fastening with full-cut collar, Single-breasted fastening with under-trimmed collar on the example of a classic men's jacket with an English collar, Single-breasted fastening with a combined collar, Double-breasted fastening with a single-cut and combined collar, Concealed fastening in outerwear, Slant fastening for a blouse
Neckline
Correction of the neckline on fitting and patterns in a light dress and outerwear, Deep neckline on the back - features of cut and processing (on examples)
Ruffles, frills, soft folds
Frills, Shuttlecocks, Soft warehouses.
Sleeve
Grid and base pattern (on the basis of this pattern, other types of sleeves are built), Single-seam narrowed sleeve with a tuck from the seam, Single-seam narrowed sleeve with a tuck from the bottom, Two-seam jacket sleeve, Full sleeve, Short sleeve, Stretch sleeve
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Pants
The basic template for men's and women's trousers is "straight trousers", differences, Skinny trousers, "Skinny" and "leggings". Differences. Denim cut. "Bananas". Breeches and Bermudas, Short shorts, Men's briefs, Wide trousers, Skirt-trousers. Comparison of the design with wide trousers.
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Modeling and design
How to copy a style from a photo or drawing
Modeling skirts based on a straight skirt
A skirt with a relief coming out of the pleat and a year, a skirt with a wrap, a pocket of "cut-off barrels" and warehouses coming out of it.
Modeling of balloon skirts based on a straight skirt and a sun skirt
“Balloon in two parts without pleats and gathers, “Balloon” on a yoke based on “sun” or “semi-sun” + open skirts “sun” and “half-sun”, “Balloon” on a yoke with folds or assembly under the yoke, “Balloon” on a yoke with a smocked assembly and a lap.
Modeling skirts "year"
Godet is a wedge. Skirts with a drop in length based on straight or regular wedges. Another way to model year-round skirts with a difference in length. Stretch jug skirt. Spiral skirt with wedges plus year. Skirt wedges "wave" plus a year with variations.
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Patterns in the style of the year...
Modeling maxi skirts
Maxi skirt without side seams, Maxi skirt with one-piece peplum.
Petticoat and crinoline, Modeling adjacent bodice.
A number of "imperishable trend" models, Asymmetric two-layer model, Breaking the rules: sundress bodice.
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Modeling dresses on different bases
Dress with drapery on the chest and an asymmetric zipper (with a stretch base), Dress with asymmetrical reliefs and an imitation of a bow at the neck, Dress with a cutout on the back, reliefs and godet.
Sleeve modeling
Raglan
Raglan: base and sleeve modeling based on raglan. Raglan "shoulder strap" and raglan modeling based on stretch. Sapozhkovsky cut (base and modeling) - do not confuse with raglan! Semi-raglan
Shoulder Armani
Sleeve
Modeling flashlights. Modeling of long sleeves and stretch sleeves. Stretch based modeling. Modeling based on "kimono".
Modeling "not by the rules"
How to combine several brands in one model and modeling when cutting the lining.
Collars
Rack. Rack "with continuation". Shirt collar on the stand. Shirt collar with detachable stand. Modeling a turn-down collar with a detachable stand for outerwear with a side fastener to the top. Collars on the open neck. Shawl collars. English collar. Modeling shawl collars. Modeling undercut collars.
Hoods
Modeling hoods. Anorak for a hoodie jacket. The design of the hood based on the "shawl". Design of a hood based on a turn-down collar.
Modeling other types of clothing
Trouser modeling
We model ladies' trousers. We design and model insulated overalls for a child up to 2 years old. Modeling based on a trouser skirt.
Corset bodice
Corset base for small breasts. "Geometry" of the corset. Modeling a corset bodice based on a chest tuck (offset). Bustier with cups.
Modeling outerwear
Modeling and cutting features of a coat with reliefs and a shawl. Coat "glass" with two reliefs and "stand" large volume. Cape. Coat "box".
Women's coats Fur coats Jackets Capes
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Pockets
Frame. Pocket "frame" in the right clothes. Pocket "frame" with a flap and a pocket with a flap. Leaflet pocket with set-in and tuning ends. Leaflet pocket for jacket. Pockets with facing on a contour of a marking of a pocket. Zipped pocket. Curved frame (like on cowboy shirts). Hungarian pocket. Patch pockets. Patch pockets for outerwear
Butt
Crinoline. Interlining. Dublerin. Adhesive edge. "Bones". Regilin is tough. Regilin is soft. Shoulder pads in a classic shape. Shoulder pads with a deflection along the shoulder and a base correction for them. "Cups". Rubber thread. Silicone thread. Fishing line. Lining. Pocket
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