It's real to sew trousers with your own hands!

Vera Olkhovskaya

The processing of men's trousers is a great challenge for beginners, amateur tailors and many paying tailors.

Outerwear tailors, on the other hand, consider men's trousers to be the easiest job.

In this group of articles you will find a complete description of the tailoring of trousers with one fitting.

Vera Olkhovskaya

Once the pants are cut, start by checking for the following pieces and trimming the missing ones.

For dress pants, you should have the following:

Vera Olkhovskaya

As a rule, the marking of pockets is carried out when cutting.

Mark up pocket "cutting barrels" not difficult (Fig. 1).

Measure along the cut of the waist of the PP from the side seam from 3-x - Up 6 cm, on the side of 15 to 20 см and connect these points with a straight line.

Wet heat treatment (hereinafter WTO) is performed after grinding the tucks and / or storage: their allowances are folded to the bow and seat and ironed.

Note for beginners.

Bow - the middle line of the PP trousers, along it is a fastener. Seat - the middle section of the trousers' belt at the level of the waist and buttocks.

In most cases, lining is needed only for PP.

The lining is trimmed after processing the warehouse, tucks and WTO (“step pull”, “knee tie”, “arrow”).

Vera Olkhovskaya

This pocket is sometimes called the Hungarian pocket.

Used in various types of clothing.

The line of entry into the pocket for classic trousers should be straight, for jeans - concave.

In women's clothing, other contours of the pocket entry lines are allowed.

For children's trousers or products made of thin fabric, it is permissible to cut out burlap from the same fabric as the entire product. In this case, no oversight is needed.

Vera Olkhovskaya

The processing of the back pocket can be done in different ways. We will look at one of the simplest options: a frame.

We have already processed the tucks and completed the WTO RFP. We start the pocket with the preparation of parts. As mentioned above, we need two facings, a valance, burlap and an air loop so that the pocket fastens (see parts list here).

Sewing trousers with your own hands for beginner tailors is difficult even for such simple operations as processing side and step cuts.

It is worth noting that they need to be ground after the WTO and the processing of pockets on the PP and ZP.

Watch the video master class on the WTO (wet heat treatment) of trousers

As well as a video lesson on sewing a pocket cutting barrel

And a video tutorial on sewing frame pockets

A typical mistake is landing, in other words, a skew when sewing the PP and ZP trousers. A defect in the processing of side and step cuts can distort the ironing line, which in properly cut and well-tailored trousers should look at the toe of the shoe.

Vera Olkhovskaya

The trouser clasp causes the greatest difficulty for beginners. Here is a simple, but well-established option.

Tip for experienced tailors: forget about codpieces and slopes.

Advice for newbies: make notches 0,3 cm long on the waist cut of the PP at the place of its (cut) intersection with the vertical of the bow.

Duplicate the fastener allowances (fig. 22) and iron them by folding them to the inside of the front halves (fig. 23). The allowance of the right PP is folded in half, and the allowance of the left one is all, up to the vertical of the bow.

Then, on the allowance of the right PP, sew a “zipper” braid with two lines ...

When sewing trousers today, they rarely use lining even on PP, but they don’t use it at all on ZP.

And yet, if you sew men's clothing with your own hands, then the day may come when you need to line not only the front, but also the back half of the trousers.

I think it will be interesting for you to know in what cases you can not do without a lining.

To correctly mark the bottom, the trousers must be folded correctly.

To do this, align the side and crotch seams, the PP and ZP irons, as well as the top of the belt.

We mark the horizontal line of the bottom of the trousers according to the mark made on the fitting (Fig. 38 a).

Vera Olkhovskaya

As mentioned above, we start processing the belt when the fastener is ready.

In addition to the two parts (halves) of the belt, we need a corsage ribbon, ready-made belt loops and, if the trousers are sewn on a figure with a protruding belly, a loop for the peg.

For the dimensions of the waistband and belt loops, see the section “What small parts are needed to process trousers”.

So, the cut out details of the belt should be duplicated with a special adhesive tape (tape) for the belt or with an ordinary doubler.

The width of the dubbing, in this case, should be 2 cm narrower than the part of the belt (Fig. 29).

That is, dubbing should deviate from the long sections of the belt by 1 cm. This is necessary in order to iron one of the allowances.

Vera Olkhovskaya

When sewing trousers, there are no trifles, and ignoring just a couple of nuances of cutting and sewing can lead to great embarrassment.

I mean the suddenly broken threads on the seam of the seat in the buttocks area.

To avoid this, when cutting, the direction of the share of the RFP is taken into account and the cut of the seat turns out to be inclined and elastic.

Then the WTO is performed and the cut of the seat is pulled back.

Watch the video master class on sewing trousers on the topic of the WTO

And, finally, when sewing, the seam of the seat should be slightly stretched and two whole straight lines should be laid at a distance of 1 - 2 mm.

Classic trousers (picture 1) will always come in handy for a boy for school celebrations.

The model can be sewn not only from suit fabric, but also from worn men's trousers.

Difficulty: medium, but requiring basic sewing skills.

Vera Olkhovskaya

Trying on men's dress pants is done after finishing the waistband and, if you've done it right, is one of the easiest parts of sewing.

Beginner couturiers make two common mistakes:

• the first - add an allowance at the waist,
• the second - they sweep and try on trousers immediately after cutting.

This is followed by atypical errors if sewing continues.