Vera Olkhovskaya
Photos provided by members of the "Cutting, Sewing and Free Patterns" groups.
Unlike a straight skirt, the Tatyanka skirt has no darts and is sewn without a pattern.
In fact, cutting such a skirt consists in cutting off a strip of fabric, the width of which is equal to the length of the skirt plus the hem, and the length of the strip is the width of the fabric cut (Fig. 1).
Ready-made dress patterns with such skirts
Thus, the fabric consumption can be calculated by the formula:
Skirt length + hem + belt width
We calculate the width of the belt part as follows:
Two widths of the finished belt + 2 cm
In addition to measuring the length of the skirt, you will need another measurement - waist circumference:
see How to take measurements...
Knowing the value of the waist circumference, you can assemble or lay warehouses along one of the long sections of our skirt.
Tatyanka's skirt assembly
Assembly is performed using two “weak” lines, which should be laid, stepping back from the fabric cut of 0,5 and 0,7 cm.
When I say “weak”, I mean stitches with loose upper thread tension.
Such lines are easy to pull off to the size of the waist circumference.
Before processing the tightened cut with a belt, the assembly should be evenly distributed.
Ruched skirts are very common in dresses.
For example, the dress with a kimono sleeve - see the description of the model and download the dress pattern.
can also be sewn with such a skirt.
How to lay folds in a Tatyanka skirt
Folds (one-sided and / or bow - Fig. 2) can be laid by eye, but it is better to calculate.
Starting with a definition unfolded one-sided fold width.
The trick is that unfolded fold must fit in the waist an even number of times.
On fig. 3 shown folded width. When unfolded, its width is
three pleat widths when folded
I will add that the folds can be located through a gap, which should also be added to the folded width when calculating.
So, let's try to calculate the number of folds.
Let's say that the waist circumference is 60 cm.
Folded width - 5 cm.
We divide 60 cm by 5 cm, we get 12 stock.
If we lay a gap between the folds of 2 cm, then the calculation will look like this:
Divide the waist circumference (60 cm) by the sum of the folded width (5 cm) and the distance between the folds (2 cm):
60 : (5 + 2) = 60 : 7 = 8 warehouse and 4 cm left.
We check whether our folds will pass the width of the fabric:
We multiply 8 folds by their unfolded width (15 cm), add 7 gaps between the folds and add 2 cm allowances for seams.
8 x 15cm + 7 x 2cm + 2cm = 120cm + 14cm + 2cm = 136cm.
With a width of 140 cm, our skirt runs the width of the fabric.
You can take other values of the width of the folded fold and the distance between the folds, but the width will be optimal - 4 - 6 cm and a distance of 2 - 4 cm.
I propose to lay the folds as follows.
- We find the middle line on the panel of the skirt, make notches along the width of the folded folds and the width of the gaps between them.
- We lay, or rather stab, a bow fold.
- From it on both sides - one-sided.
- We continue until we have scored the desired number of folds, corresponding to your waist circumference.
Tailoring of a skirt "Tatyanka".
On the cut on which the folds are stabbed, we lay a line, stepping back from the edge of 0,7 cm.
Cut off the excess, leaving 1 cm on each side for a seam.
We overcast the sections of this seam, sew on a hidden zipper, grind the rest of the seam, starting and ending with the bartack, and iron the seam.
(Attention! The sequence of processing the "vertical" seam of the skirt depends on the method of processing the fastener.)
We make and sew a belt.
How to do this, read the article
Processing the skirt belt.
Please note that the "tatyanka" belt is processed in the same way as the belt
skirts straight.
After that, we process the bottom of the skirt.
How to process the bottom of the skirt, read the article
bottom processing.
In order for the skirt to acquire fashionable splendor, the cut of the bottom can be treated with soft regilin.
To do this, sew regilin to the bottom cut, like an oblique inlay (see photo in the article "Slanting inlay: questions and answers"), applying to the face of the product.
Turn the reguilin inside out and hem or topstitch with a decorative seam.
As you can see, with the seeming simplicity of the style, the novice couturier should learn a few sewing lessons.
Ready-made dress patterns with such skirts without a pattern
1. Pattern of a dress with an open back and a Tatyanka skirt
One-piece back and front patterns are designed for dresses that are black in the photo, and “composite” ones are for those that are white and gray in the photo. The skirt pattern is not included in the kit, since "tatyanka" is a strip of fabric, a rectangle. All patterns are made without seam allowances.
Download the finished pattern of this dress
2. Simple patterns for beginners of a cut-off dress under the bust
According to this pattern, you can sew several styles with a bodice of various lengths. “Playing” with the length of the bodice, choosing a larger or smaller size, changing skirts, sleeves and pockets, you can significantly update your wardrobe with boho dresses for winter and summer. In fact, this is a pattern - a designer from which you can assemble many simple boho dresses for girls and women in your family.
Download dress pattern for beginners
3. Patterns of a cut-off dress for a peasant lady with a drop and two types of bodice patterns
Before cutting, you should decide how to process the upper cut of the bodice and sleeves. Will the bodice be simply stitched with rubber thread wound on a bobbin or will it be a drawstring. Please note that the drawstring will require an additional allowance for the top cut.
Download dress pattern with two types of bodice
All articles on the topic of how to sew a skirt with your own hands
Skirt patterns
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