Processing the bottom of trousers while sewing

To correctly mark the bottom, the trousers must be folded correctly.

To do this, align the side and crotch seams, the PP and ZP irons, as well as the top of the belt.

We mark the horizontal line of the bottom of the trousers according to the mark made on the fitting (Fig. 38 a).

Algorithm for marking the bottom of trousers

When marking, we focus on the vertical of the side seams, that is, the horizontal of the bottom should be strictly perpendicular to the side seam. But then the bottom line should be raised 1 cm up along the ironing of the PP (Fig. 38 b).

After that, a raised bottom line is marked on the other "halves" and the other leg of the trousers.

For trousers with cuffs, the bottom line remains horizontal (Fig. 39).

Down from it, you should measure the double width of the finished cuff and transfer both horizontals to the other halves and the other leg of the trousers.

Thus, the hem area is located below the marking line (lines) (Fig. 40).

When the markup is over, the bottom cut is shaped and overcast, and then you can start sewing on the trouser tape.

It is better to start stitching stepping back from the step seam 2 - 3 cm. In this case, the braid is applied to the marking line from the side of the hem.

The braid is sewn in two lines and the distance from the edge of the braid should be 2 - 3 mm.

The edge helps to keep the distance from the edge of the braid.

The end of the braid is bent into a corner, as shown in Fig. 41.

When the braid is stitched, the hem is folded to the inside of the trousers and swept up in two lines (Fig. 42): the first is 0,5 - 1 cm from the bottom line and the second is 0,7 - 1 cm from the departure edge of the hem.

If the bottom line is sloping (processing without a cuff), then you need to carefully note the hem allowance so as not to warp.

Remember: the hem should not reach the ironing of the PP by a few millimeters.

Processing the bottom of the trousers with cuffs

Let us consider in more detail the option with a cuff (Fig. 43).

The braid is also stitched in two lines and the distance from the edge of the braid should also be 2 - 3 mm.

The end of the braid is folded in the same way, but further processing is different.

The bottom of the trouser leg is folded inward exactly along the midline of the cuff (Fig. 43, red dotted line), then a second line is laid along the bottom line of attaching the braid.

Basting lines - two - are performed in the same way as for the bottom without a cuff (Fig. 42).

In the end, the bottom of the trousers is ironed (separately each leg), hemmed in the sweat by machine or manually, the basting is removed and the prints of the basting and the entire product are steamed.

См. также article "Processing the bottom of the product".

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