Vera Olkhovskaya
This pocket is sometimes called the Hungarian pocket.
Used in various types of clothing.
The line of entry into the pocket for classic trousers should be straight, for jeans - concave.
In women's clothing, other contours of the pocket entry lines are allowed.
For children's trousers or products made of thin fabric, it is permissible to cut out burlap from the same fabric as the entire product. In this case, no oversight is needed.
If the entrance to the pocket is not a straight line, then turning is also needed.
Hungarian Pocket Processing Rule
Valid for trousers of all styles and sizes, as well as for all other products with symmetrical pockets: if you need to process two symmetrical pockets, they are processed in parallel. This means that each operation is repeated twice - first for one pocket, then for the other.
Let's start with trimming the "small" details, in case you haven't done it yet.
The rule of cutting a barrel in your pocket.
The small parts of the “cut-off barrel” pocket are trimmed along the cut-out PP part, on which seam allowances have already been taken into account.
The canvas of burlap is a rectangle of fabric that is cut or torn off, its height is equal to the desired length of the burlap, and its width is the width of the finished burlap multiplied by four + 4 cm for the seams, that is, for two pockets. In practice, the length of the burlap should be below the bottom of the pocket entry marking line by 5 - 7 cm, and 1/4 of its width, exceed the width of the customer's palm at the widest point on 4 см.
Council. The measure "width of the palm" does not exist in classical tailoring science, but it can be used for individual tailoring, especially if the customer's brushes are very large or small. To do this, place the customer's palm on the ruler and fix its width at the moment of greatest relaxation.
Prepared rectangular blanks of burlap are cut according to the already cut out parts of the PP. To do this, the workpiece is bent along and placed under the PP so that the waist cut coincides with the upper cuts of the workpiece, and the most protruding point of the side seam is adjacent to the vertical cuts of the burlap. Everything that protrudes beyond the side seam must be trimmed (Fig. 5 a).
After that, the burlap unfolds and on one side everything that is higher than the entrance to the pocket is cut off. To do this, lay the burlap cut on the side on the front side of the PCB and “interrupt” the chalky entry line onto it. The result is in Figure 5 b.
Valance also cut out with the help of the PP part (Fig. 6). Lay the PP on the fabric inside out on the face, so that the direction of the longitudinal threads of the part and the cut coincide. Circle part of the waist and side cuts. The stroke line should go to 3 - 4 cm behind the line of entry into the pocket downwards and towards the bow.
Council. If trousers are sewn from a fabric with a large or pronounced pattern, then it is better to cut out the gaps for each PP separately, carefully combining the pattern of the PP and the cut.
Aligning the drawing, remove the PP from the cut and connect the extreme points of the stroke of the convex curve. After cutting the gaps, overcast them along the “convex curve”, and leave the side and waist sections untreated (Fig. 6).
So, once again about what should already be ready: a tuck or a PP warehouse has been processed, a partial overcasting of the side and waist sections has been made, and a wet-heat treatment has been performed. Now you should glue the "edge" (Fig. 7) under the entrance to the pocket.
Definition . Edge - here - adhesive tape from any duplicating material. The main property of the edge is that it cannot be stretched, so it will reliably protect the pocket from deformation.
Various types of edges can be bought in specialized stores, but you can simply cut a shared strip of doubler in width 1 - 2 cm.
Council. By gluing the edge, at the same time you can duplicate and iron the allowances for the fastener.
Next operation: sharpening the gap on the burlap and connecting the burlap with the PP of the trousers. To do this, lay two burlaps unfolded, as shown in fig. 8, put gaps on them and lay the machine line along the curve with bartacks at the ends. It is not necessary to lay lines on the side and waist sides of the valance. After that, the burlap lies, if I may say so, with a gap up and the PP is applied face up on it, while the cut of the entrance to the burlap pocket and the eponymous line PP. The main part is adjusted to burlap, the line goes along the "triangle".
Having finished with the connection of the pocket parts, iron them and, having folded the PP along the line of the entrance to the pocket, carefully iron again. Lay the finishing stitch at a distance 0,5 см from the fold (Fig. 9). After that, it remains only to combine the entry lines on the valance and the PP and fasten them with bartacks (Fig. 10).
Please note that during the sewing process 1 см each bartack will go into the side seam or under the belt, so the length of the bartack along the short line must be at least 2 - x cm (see fig. 10 in the bubble). If the bartack goes completely under the belt or into the seam, the load will fall not on the bartacks, but on the lines of the connecting seams and the product will often tear in these places.
Advice for newbies. If the pocket entry line is longer than you expected, you can shorten it by lengthening the side bartack.
The final stage: double stitched burlap (Fig. 11). The main thing is not to forget and make a notch on the burlap on 0,1 см below the side bartack of the pocket, perpendicular to the side cuts. The length of the side notch is equal to twice the width of the pocket turning seam, that is 0,7 - 1 cm. For convenience, you can make another small (0,2 см) notch on the burlap fold line.
After completing the notches, turn the pocket inside out and lay the first line of the double seam connecting the burlap between the notches. Then, turn the pocket inside out, carefully straighten the seam with your fingers and lay the second line of the double seam, indented from the edge on 0,1 см more than the width of the seam laid on the wrong side.
Video master class on sewing a pocket cutting barrel
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