Trouser fastening

Vera Olkhovskaya

The trouser clasp causes the greatest difficulty for beginners. Here is a simple, but well-established option.

Tip for experienced tailors: forget about codpieces and slopes.

Advice for newbies: make notches 0,3 cm long on the waist cut of the PP at the place of its (cut) intersection with the vertical of the bow.

Duplicate the fastener allowances (fig. 22) and iron them by folding them to the inside of the front halves (fig. 23). The allowance of the right PP is folded in half, and the allowance of the left one is all, up to the vertical of the bow.

Then, on the allowance of the right PP, sew a “zipper” braid with two lines ...

First line

The “lightning” is laid “face down” on the front side of the part, the edge of the braid and the fold of the allowance for the fastener are combined or stacked parallel at a distance 0,3 - 0,5 cm (depending on the size of the product and the width of the allowance for the fastener), while the lower metal bartack of the zipper must be higher than the ledge of the allowance by 1 см.

The line is laid in the middle of the right ribbon (Fig. 24) and fixed at the bottom and top.

Second line

The stitched braid-"lightning" is folded to the right and fixed with one more line in this position (Fig. 25).

After that, the front halves are ground down in the area of ​​the bow cut (Fig. 26). To perform this operation, fold the parts face to face and stitch them along the bow from the level of the metal clip of the zipper to the crotch. But if you the side-step cuts have not yet been stitched, leave a couple of centimeters before the step cuts.

Of course, this line must begin and end with a bartack.

After sewing the bow, sew the free right ribbon of the “zipper” to the free right allowance for the fastener, aligning the notches of the bow at the waist (also Fig. 26). Thus, both PPs are connected by a zipper in the zipper area.

The final stage is the finishing line. It is laid along the left PP and fixes the fastener allowances with a zipper sewn to them (Fig. 27, 28). When performing the operation, it is necessary to ensure that the lower (half-folded allowance) falls only under the horizontal backtack.

Watch the video master class on sewing a trouser fastener

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