Clasp "drop" - edging and turning while sewing

Vera Olkhovskaya

The clasp "drop" can be processed in two ways:

1. edging
2. turning

Piping clasp drop

The first method is suitable for thin and / or transparent fabrics. The edging is best done with an oblique trim made from the main fabric (see article "How to make a bias tape").

The optimal width of the bias tape strip for chiffon is 4 cm.

Simple pattern hoodie raglan sweatshirt with a zipper Oversized pattern dress sweatshirt silhouette cocoon Sweatshirt patterns - raglan hoodie with asymmetric pocket Patterns of summer t-shirts with a hood for women's sports Jacket patterns - sweatshirt with side for women Pattern sweatshirt-sweatshirt raglan 2 shelves Pattern of a dress-tunic with a hood of a line silhouette with a wrap Pattern of a jacket with a hood for winter and summer

Turning fasteners drop

For denser fabrics (linen, jeans, jacquard, dress or suit wool, etc.), it is better to use the edging method (see article "Processing the neck and armholes with facings").

When making facings, please note: we cut them out of dubbing without seam allowances and mark them on both “drops”; if the “drop” is small, we cut it out immediately, if it is large and curved, we DO NOT CUT IT OUT, but only mark it with a gel pen or a simple pencil. For light fabrics, use a gel pen or felt-tip pen in light “consonant” colors. In addition, for ease of marking, you can cut out a cardboard “drop” cutout template.

The facing for the “drop” fastener located on the back can repeat the shoulder section partially (Fig. 1 on the left) or completely (Fig. 1 on the right). The option on the right is especially suitable for small sizes or models with a short shoulder, where the distance between the piping of the sprout and the armhole will be less than 3 cm.

The use of a common turning for the sprout and armhole makes it possible to process a more complex in shape and / or a rather large “drop”. The sewing technology in this case involves turning the back, turning the shelf, and then “inserting” the shoulder section of the shelf into the inverted back.

Of particular interest is the processing of asymmetric "drops" on the shelf (Fig. 2). To do this, the pattern is performed in a turn. It is NOT NEEDED to cut a “drop” on the shelf and facing, cut it out after grinding the parts.

Before turning, do not forget about notches on the seam allowance of turning.

Fasteners in the form of "hearts", "peak" and all kinds of "squiggles" are processed in the same way. Remember: complex and large fastener cutouts require “large” facings on the entire shoulder.

Women's coats and jackets, jackets in patterns

A simple pattern of a women's coat with a one-piece sleeve Coat patterns - down jacket with a large collar and reliefs Patterns of a women's jacket from quilted fabric Patterns of a winter down jacket for women with a hood Fur coat pattern / short fur coat Pattern coat raglan flared with a stand Pattern "cape coat with stand and hood" Pattern "double-breasted coat with a hood"

Women's coats Fur coats Jackets Capes

A simple pattern for beginners of a women's jacket Patterns of a jacket - double-breasted jacket Patterns of jackets in the style of Chanel Pattern jacket-cape Elena Zelenskaya Pattern of a female fitted jacket on an oblique clasp Pattern of a white jacket with an original collar Pattern "jacket on one button" Pattern "jacket with peplum-Tatyanka"