How to change the neckline

Vera Olkhovskaya

A drawing of any base (see. "Basics") involves a neckline, which in most cases is inconvenient and uninteresting.

You can change the style of the neck both on the fitting and on the pattern itself before trying on the product (video at the end of the article).

To do this, measure the desired neckline depth on the customer (see also "Removal of measurements").

Measure on the basis of the depth of the cut on the vertical half-skid from the highest point (Fig. 1).

The operation is the same for products without fasteners in front (Fig. 1 a) and for products with sides (Fig. 1 b).

Mark and connect the resulting point with the side point of the neck to get a "toe" cutout.

The toe line can be straight or concave.

Please note that for a vest and jacket, the neckline can be expanded (Fig. 1b), having previously stepped back along the shoulder cut from the side points of the sprout and the neckline by 1-2 cm.

For a vest, in addition, the sprout should be deepened.

It is important that the neck and sprout of one product expand by the same amount.

Another example of the expansion of the sprout-neck is the “trapezoid” cutout (Fig. 1a, green dash-dotted line).

The neck and sprout expand by 3 - 4 cm, the depth of the neckline is drawn according to the measurement.

The depth of the cutout of the sprout can also be pre-measured and set aside the resulting value along the middle seam.

"Boat" - does not deepen the neck and sprout, but only expands them, leaving a minimum for the shoulder cut (Fig. 2 a, b).

The disadvantage of this neckline is the visual shortening of the neck and, in some cases, the need for an additional incision (along the midline or middle back seam) for fastening.

On the basis of the "boat" for tops and tight-fitting dresses, you can make a cutout with lapels (Fig. 2 b, c, d - green dash-dotted line).

The depth of the cutout (more precisely, the cut) of the neck should not exceed 8 cm.

Shoulder length, which should be measured along the shoulder cut - 3 - 4 cm from the shoulder point.

Such a cut is processed with turnings, the dimensions of which depend on the depth of the neck incision and the size of the turn-down part (Fig. 2 c, d).

In products with a lapel lapel, the sequence is the same (Fig. 3).

The depth of the neckline is also measured along the half-skid (Fig. 3 a) and a lapel inflection line is drawn through the obtained point (for more details, see the book “Cutting Technique”).

In this case, the depth point of the neckline is the point of convergence of the shelves.

To evaluate the shape of the lapel, the pattern is folded along a half-slide and the outline of the lapel is outlined with a cutter.

This design method avoids many irreparable errors prior to fitting.

But its complexity lies in the fact that it is important to imagine very accurately what you want to get in the end.

Patterns of vests and jackets for women

A simple pattern for beginners of a women's jacket Patterns of a jacket - double-breasted jacket Patterns of jackets in the style of Chanel Pattern jacket-cape Elena Zelenskaya Pattern of a female fitted jacket on an oblique clasp Pattern of a white jacket with an original collar Pattern "jacket on one button" Pattern "jacket with peplum-Tatyanka"

Simple patterns of oversized blouses-tunics-shirts with kimono sleeves A simple pattern of a flared shirt-blouse with corners patterns of vests "cube" Patterns of women's fur vest elongated Bustier pattern Blouse pattern "Italian" 40-54 Knitted blouson pattern Pattern "vest with edging"