Pattern "jacket with peplum-Tatyanka"

Electronic pattern of "jacket with peplum-Tatyanka".

Sizes: 42-52 (the buyer receives the entire gradation of sizes from 42 to 52 inclusive).

File format for download in order:

PDF in full size and without seam allowances.

After paying for the order, you will receive links to download two files patterns of a jacket of gradation of sizes from 42 to 52:

1. PDF file A4, adapted for printing patterns on sheets of A4 paper in any program on any device, including mobile phones.
2. Multi-format PDF file for printing on sheets of any size from A0 to A4 on a printer or plotter using Adobe Reader.

The difficulty level of tailoring is easy if the jacket is sewn without lining and the level of complexity is professional if the jacket is lined.

This pattern is not exactly for beginners, although the simplicity of the style can bribe the home couturier. This jacket model can be recommended only to those who have already learned how to knit a sleeve.

The jacket with a peplum-"Tatyanka" has several options for cutting: with long sleeves and 3/4 sleeves, with butt sides and with a fastener to the top, with a single peplum and with a double peplum.

The set of patterns includes patterns for the back, shelves, collar and sleeves. The peplum is a strip of fabric and therefore is not included in the kit (Fig. 1).

Fabric consumption depends on the length of the sleeve and peplum. As indicated above, it can be double or single, and therefore the cost per peplum can vary from 20 to 40 cm.

The cost for a long-sleeved jacket without a peplum will be 115 - 125 cm, depending on the size.

Thus, the total consumption of fabric will be from 135 to 165 cm. For a more accurate calculation, before buying a fabric, you should decide on a peplum and a sleeve. It is also advisable to perform a preliminary layout of the patterns with seam allowances, as shown in the figures below.

You can sew such a jacket from various fabrics. Fine and medium-thick woolen dress fabrics are well suited. At the same time, it is not necessarily monophonic - this style will look good from a fabric in a cage or in a strip.

A warmer version can be sewn from tweed, but here you need to choose a fabric that is not too thick and loose.

Heavy suiting silk, jacquard, and cotton-based velvet, as well as dense stretch with a small coefficient of stretch, are well suited.

Of course, novice couturiers should choose fabrics that are easy to process.

How to choose size

How to buy a pattern

How to print a pattern

Ready-made patterns for children in full size free download

Copyright on photographs by Yulia Prokhorova.

How to cut a peplum jacket

We start by cutting out from the dubbing a facing for the sprout along the pattern of the back and a pick-up according to the pattern of the pick-up (Fig. 2). We cut out both parts WITHOUT seam allowances.

If you are sewing a jacket without lining, then, in addition to facing the sprout and the selection, you will need a dubbing strip along the bottom of the sleeve. Its width is 2,5 - 3 cm. Since the bottom line of the sleeve is concave, the strip should be cut along the oblique thread (Fig. 3 - 4).

Now let's analyze the two most likely options for cutting a jacket with a peplum.

Option one - butt sides, as in the photo (Fig. 3). Option two - with a fastener to the top (Fig. 4).

We start by basing one section of the fabric folded in half. As you probably know, when cutting, the fabric is folded in half face to face and the edges are parallel to the edge of the table on the side where the cutter is standing.

So, we align one of the cuts after matching the edges, observing right angles between the cut being adjusted, the edges and the fold of the fabric (Fig. 3 - 4).

Then we measure the length of the peplum. Double peplum (fig. 3):

Two peplum lengths ready-made + 2 cm for seams

Then we lay the patterns of the back and the shelves with a “jack”, while it is important that the lobar back coincides with its middle line, and the lobar shelves with the line of the edge of the side (semi-skid). Sleeve - "oblique".

Seam allowances: shoulder, side, front and back seams of the sleeve - 1 cm, sprout, neckline, sleeve hem, drop-off cut - no allowance, bottom of the sleeve - 2,5 - 3 cm, bottom of the bodice of the jacket - 4 cm.

AverageThe back seam is uneven, i.e. an allowance of 1 cm is actually added to the midline.

This is necessary to maintain the share direction.

Pay attention to the turning of the sprout: allowances for seams of 1 cm are added only in the places of sewing along the middle seam and along the shoulder.

To the selection, which in this case is integral with the shelf, an allowance of 1 cm is added along the shoulder seam and 4 cm along the bottom, as for the shelf.

This is for the first cutting option, in which the sides are butted. The second option with a fastener to the top (Fig. 4) differs only in opening the shelves.

Let's say the peplum in this case is single, then we measure from the ossified cut:

The length of the peplum in finished form + 1 cm for the stitching seam + 3 cm for the hem

The rest of the seam allowances are the same.

Let's look at the differences between the shelves with a fastener to the top (Fig. 4).

If in the first case the semi-skid (the middle line of the shelf and the middle line of the figure) coincided with the line of the edge of the side, then in the second there is a distance of 2-3 cm between them (a darkened strip), which should ensure the "superposition" of one side on the other.

Please note: when trying on, the half-drift lines of the shelves must match.

How to sew a jacket with a peplum-tatyanka

If the jacket is unlined, then it is sewn in the same way as the dress.

We start by duplicating the selection, and for the second option, in addition, we outline a half-skid line on the front side with a lining line.

We grind the darts and the middle seam of the back. We cut out the tuck of the shelf, leaving 1 cm on the seam and overcast the sections of the tuck (together), shoulder, side, sections of the middle seam of the back (one at a time). We grind the folds on the sleeves.

Carefully iron the shelf and back, bend and iron the pick. In the second option, it will have to be ground in the neck area. We grind the fragments of the facing and iron the seam. We iron the folds along the collar of the sleeve, directing the allowances to the highest point of the collar.

Then we sweep away the shoulder and side sections, the seams of the sleeve, make a shoulder pad or find a finished one (you will need it for fitting). We notice the selection with large oblique stitches up to 5 cm. We lay and sweep warehouses on the peplum or perform assembly.

How to calculate warehouses see the article about "Tatyanka" skirts

On the fitting, we specify the volume and balance of the jacket. If necessary, we adjust along the side and shoulder seams, cut the armhole. During the fitting, the shoulder pads must be on the customer's shoulders.

Read and watch "What are fittings and why are they needed".

How to cut an armhole

Having dealt with the bodice, we apply the sleeve and specify its length. At this time, the shoulder pads should be fastened with tailor's pins to the shoulder seams of the jacket.

Next, we tie the bodice with a thin belt or linen elastic (not tight) and outline the line for stitching the peplum.

We apply the bass and look at the proportions. Raise or lower as needed.

In preparation for the second fitting, we grind and iron the shoulder-side seams, we process (turn) the neck, we overcast the detachable cut of the selection and facing of the sprout, we hem the bottom of the peplum and the sleeve, having previously processed the seam.

Watch the video tutorial on how to process the bottom in different ways.

Then we sew in the sleeve and we take the finished peplum. We pin the shoulder pads and carry out the second fitting, on which we specify the fit of the sleeve, the marking of the loops, the fit of the peplum and other details.

The fact how to sweep a sleeve video master class for beginners and an article with pictures.

Watch the video tutorial on how to sew buttonholes on a jacket and coat with your hands и how to sew loops on a typewriter (video)

And in conclusion, it remains to be said that the stitching seam of the peplum is ironed out if they want the peplum to bulge less and ironed down (the allowances are overcast in place), if it is necessary that it be more magnificent. The sleeves are sewn in with two lines, the distance between which is 1 mm, while it is desirable to slightly stretch the lines.

The podkatnik can be made of a rigid mesh - watch video tutorial for beginners.