Vera Olkhovskaya
Processing of armholes and necklines in a light dress is usually performed after trying on, on which their outlines are specified.
If you sew a product according to ready-made and tested patterns or there are special instructions in the description of sewing in this regard, the processing sequence can be changed.
In this article with a video, the method of processing by turning is considered.
We begin processing with the manufacture of the facings themselves.
You can cut (the same as “cut out”) the latter both according to the patterns (Fig. 1) and according to the product, which should first be chopped in half, aligning the armholes, shoulder and side seams.
In any case, we cut out the details we need from a dublerin of the corresponding property.
That is, for knitwear we choose a “knitted” (aka “stretch”) doubler, for silk it is woven, but thin, for jacquard it is denser than for silk.
Regardless of whether the product or patterns are trimmed, we outline the outlines of the sprout, the middle seam of the back, the shoulder seam, the armhole, the side seam, the neckline and the half-skid, choosing the ones necessary for each part separately.
At the same time, if the facings of the sprout and the neck are needed in one piece, the shelf and back should fit on the fold of the dublerin.
Stroke and undercut is done WITHOUT seam allowances.
The cut-out parts of the dubbing are glued to the wrong side of the fabric.
Usually, lunges left after cutting are used for this purpose.
Then, the parts are cut out, leaving 1 cm allowances for sewing along the shoulder and side cuts (Fig. 2).
The blanks are ground down (Fig. 3, 4), the seams are ironed out.
The outer cut is overcast on an overlock or zigzag.
The neckline and armhole are turned.
Processing the neckline with a piping when sewing a dress
Let's take a closer look at this operation.
Place a facing blank on the product face to face, aligning the shoulder and side cuts (for armholes) or the middle seam of the back and the semi-skid of the product with the middle lines (for the neck).
Pin the piping and product at the matching points with tailor's pins.
Stitch the facings and the product, stepping back from the concave sections of 0,5 - 1 cm.
On concave lines and corners, notch the seam, not reaching the line by 0,1 cm.
If the fabric is thick, then first one of the layers of the seam is cut by 0,2 cm.
Then, you should bend the seam and
facing away from the product and lay a line that fastens the allowances, stepping back from the stitching line 0,2 - 0,3 cm.
The next step: turn the product inside out and bend the facing inside out so that you can see it completely and 0,1 - 0,2 cm of the face of the product.
This small strip of the front side is called "edging" (Fig. 5).
The edge is fixed with oblique stitches from 2 to 4 cm, depending on the thickness and other properties of the fabric.
In other words, "the edging is swept out."
The swept edging must be ironed from the inside out, and the free cut of the facing should be glued with adhesive tape or hemmed with a secret stitch.
In conclusion, the notch is removed, the product is ironed, and, if necessary, the armholes and the neckline are sewn with a decorative stitch.
Dress patterns
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