Patterns of a jacket - double-breasted jacket

Electronic pattern for printing in full size on a home printer or plotter. Can be printed on sheets of paper from A4 to A0. Paperless cutting through the projector is possible.

Free download instructions on how to sew for this pattern

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How to sew a women's jacket with your own hands - a jacket for this pattern

Contents of the instruction:

1. Description of patterns.
2. What patterns are included in the sets of patterns for a women's jacket - jacket.
3. Description of the design of the styles of a women's jacket - a classic double-breasted jacket.
4. What to sew a jacket from, what fabric consumption.
5. How to cut a jacket according to the finished pattern.
6. How to sew a jacket - a jacket at home - an approximate sequence.

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1. Description of patterns

All sizes from 40 to 52 or from 52 to 64 are printed from one PDF file of the pattern.

File format: PDF full size and without seam allowances

By choosing a style and paying for the order, you will receive links to download two files patterns

• jacket - double-breasted women's classic gradation of sizes from 40 to 52 or from 52 to 64
• or a double-breasted women's McQueen jacket in sizes 40 to 52 or 52 to 64

File format and printing features patterns:

1. PDF file A4, adapted for printing patterns on sheets of A4 paper in any program on any device, including mobile phones.
2. Multi-format PDF file for printing on sheets of any size from A0 to A4 on a printer or plotter using Adobe Reader.

Pattern assembly diagram when printing on A4 sheets of a home printer

For a classic jacket-blazer for sizes from 40 to 52:

The pattern is assembled on 1 large page of patterns of 30 A4 sheets:

5 rows of 6 sheets in a row.

For a classic jacket-blazer for sizes from 52 to 64:

The pattern is assembled on one large page of patterns from 35 sheets of A4 paper:

5 rows of 7 sheets in a row.

For jacket jacket McQueen 40 - 52

The pattern is assembled on two large pages of patterns from 48 sheets of A4 paper:

1 page of patterns - 24 sheets, 4 rows of 6 sheets in a row.

2 page of patterns - 24 sheets, 4 rows of 6 sheets in a row.

For McQueen blazer jacket 52 - 64:

The pattern is assembled on two large pages of patterns from 58 sheets of A4 paper:

1 page of patterns - 28 sheets, 4 rows of 7 sheets in a row.

2 page of patterns - 30 sheets, 5 rows of 6 sheets in a row.

The level of complexity of sewing is professional, assuming the ability to process an English collar and a pocket with or without a flap.

This pattern is not for beginner couturiers.

The styles of these jackets are suitable for figures of various fullness and height.

Patterns are designed for sewing at home on household sewing machines.

For high-quality sewing, you will need a mannequin and accessories for the WTO.

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2. What patterns are included in the sets of patterns for a women's jacket - jacket

A set of patterns for a jacket - a double-breasted women's classic jacket

(picture 1)

1. Shelf (identical to the right front of the McQueen jacket).
2. Back.
3. Selection.
4. Collar patterns.
5. Patterns of a classic jacket sleeve - upper and lower half.
6. Pocket flap pattern.

A set of patterns for a jacket - a jacket for a double-breasted women's McQueen

(picture 1)

1. The shelf is left and the side of the left shelf.
2. The shelf is right.
3. Back.
4. Selection.
5. Collar patterns.
6. Pocket flap patterns.

Patterns for the details of the frames and pocket burlap are not included in the kits. Their cutting is described below.

3. Description of the design of the styles of a women's jacket - a double-breasted classic jacket

This is one of the most popular models of women's jacket.

The silhouette is loose, the side is straight, the fastener is double-breasted.

Collar type English classic. The shape of the lapel is "dovetail" and "straight" (the lapel line continues the rake line).

The sleeve is two-sutural classical.

Another variation of the model, designed "based on" the jacket - the Alexander McQueen jacket from the winter collection of 2017.

The pattern is made on the basis of a double-breasted jacket close to the classics. Of course, a small chest tuck is “added” to the base.

The silhouette is free.

4. What to sew a jacket from, what fabric consumption

It is worth choosing among suit fabrics.

For a McQueen jacket, double-sided suiting fabrics are preferred, otherwise the sewing difficulty will increase.

Of course, you can use dress fabrics, jacquard, and denim, if your idea requires it.

With a certain processing, double-sided fabrics can also be used.

Fabric consumption for a classic jacket with a fabric width of 140 - 150 cm will be from 170 - 250 cm, depending on the size.

And the consumption for a McQueen jacket is from 220 to 250 cm. The width of the fabric is 140-150 cm.

Pay attention to the fact that before a set of fabric, it is advisable to choose a method for processing the sides and perform a preliminary layout of the patterns.

If you have insufficient experience in sewing jackets and jackets, then it is better to choose loose fabrics that can hide sewing flaws. "Hard" "suits" are recommended only for experienced couturiers.

Instructions on how to buy, how to print yourself and others

How to choose a size without using tables and taking measurements

What height are the patterns for?

How to buy a ready-made electronic pattern

How to print a pattern at home in full size on A4 sheets or on sheets of any other size

How to assemble a pattern after printing

Simple patterns for dresses, sweatshirts, skirts and trousers in full size Free

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5. How to cut a jacket according to a finished pattern

Before cutting, you need to clearly understand exactly how you are going to process the sides of the jacket - jacket. Consider the possible options.

1. "Classic" turning sides - cut out exactly according to the pattern. See the description for an example of similar coat patterns - a jacket of small sizes Such boards for this model are only suitable for very thin fabrics.
2. Combined sides - one-piece bottom (up to the waist) and turned upper part (with a lapel). An example of such a combined selection in the description patterns of a coat - a jacket of the big sizes and in the description coat patterns - jacket "new classic" This option can be used for relatively loose and "heavy" fabrics.
3. McQueen pickups can be made short to the waist. But this, of course, with appropriate processing of the edge of the side down from the waist and the very bottom.

Now about duplication and allowances. We are considering options without lining (picture 2).

The lapels are duplicated from the fold to the edge, the sides are completely excluding seam allowances, that is, the dubbing is cut out exactly according to the pattern.

We also duplicate the lower collar and valve - without taking into account allowances for seams. The upper collar can be duplicated completely.

In addition, we duplicate the hem of the bottom of the back, shelves and sleeves.

Allowances - standard one centimeter. Exceptions are the edge of the side of the shelf - 0,5 - 0,7 cm, and the edge of the selection is 0,7 - 1 cm. The amount of allowance depends on the thickness of the fabric and the width of the piping. On the bottom - 2,5 - 3 cm. For the left McQueen shelf on the bottom - 1,5 - 2 cm or without allowance (depending on fabric and processing).

The cutting of the classic jacket itself is quite simple and the layout is shown in 3 drawing.

However, it is important to remember that with individual tailoring, cutting and sewing are not separate processes and cutting is carried out as needed details in the process of sewing and fitting.

For example, to prepare the first fitting of a classic jacket, you only need a shelf and a back.

But, if you do not adjust the lapel, then you can process the sides.

To prepare the second fitting, when the armhole has already been trimmed, sleeves are needed.

And the collar is cut out based on the length of the neckline after processing the shoulder seams, but a template or dubbing blank can be attached to the jacket to correct the shape already at the first or second fitting.

This approach helps not only to achieve high accuracy in fulfilling the wishes of the customer, but also to avoid annoying mistakes.

Cutting asymmetric parts for a McQueen jacket is done on a fabric spread in one layer. An example layout for 4 drawing.

To avoid turning parts, cut on the right side of the fabric.

The share thread, as for classic jackets, is perpendicular to the horizontal of the waist, that is, along the half-skid for the front and along the center line for the back.

For pick-ups, the share can be parallel, both to the bottom of the edge of the bead, and parallel to the edge of the lapel. For example, if the fabric is striped or plaid, the pattern should go along the edge of the lapel.

The share thread for the lower collar is along the rake line, for the upper one - along the middle line.

After cutting, for both models, notches are made at the waist, for which all side sections of the front and back are folded together.

Then, on both shelves, the markings of the half-skid and the inflection of the lapel are applied. This marking should be preserved until the product is ready, so we apply it with a thread.

Undercut facings for pockets can be done just before they are made, that is, after processing the shelves from fabric scraps.

Pockets can be of two types: a frame with a valve or leaflet with a valve.

For leaflets, the width of the facings in the cutting is 4 cm (2 parts are needed), for frames - 2 - 2,5 cm (4 parts are needed).

The length of the facings in the cut = the length of the entrance to the pocket + 4 cm.

Burlap is a rectangle. The width of the burlap \u30d the width of the facings in the cut, and the length in the cut is 34 - XNUMX cm.

6. How to sew a jacket - a jacket at home - an approximate sequence

Without the professional skills of an outerwear tailor, it is impossible to sew a high-quality jacket, so the explanations are given with great simplifications.

But, no matter how simplified the processing of the jacket - jacket, wet-heat treatment with subsequent drying on a mannequin should not be neglected.

Approximate sewing sequence.

1. Processing of darts and semi-relief from the armhole. In the McQueen jacket, a barrel is butt-joined to the pocket cut of the left shelf end-to-end with temporary stitches before the pocket is processed. This can be done manually or by machine.
2. WTO shelves, including duplication of lapels.
3. Preparing to make pockets: iron along the facing, make flaps, make precise symmetrical marking of pockets on the shelves.
4. Make pockets and iron them.
5. Process the sides.
6. Process the back - the middle seam, the slot (if provided) and the WTO.
7. Sweep (machine or hand) and press (lightly) the shoulder and side seams to try on.
8. Prepare shoulder pads.
9. Try on, cut the armhole. How to cut an armhole

10. Process the shoulder and side cuts

11. Cut out the sleeves, process.

12. Process the lower collar - middle seam, WTO and dry.

13. Perform a second fitting, also with the shoulder pad. We try on the sleeves and outline three points of junction of the sleeve and the armhole - the highest point of the eyelet, the front roll, the elbow roll. Then we try on the workpiece or the lower collar. If necessary or if desired, you can adjust the cut of the collar flyaway.

14. Cut out the top collar along the bottom. Then, you can process the collar and sweep it. Roll up sleeves. Process the bottom.

15. Third fitting. We check the fit of the collar and sleeves on the figure and mark the loops. The best option is to mark the upper loop 2 - 3 cm above the waist.

16. Sew on the collar.

17. Process the armholes (lay around a couple of lines).

18. Loops, finishing ironing, drying, buttons.