Jacket patterns - sweatshirt with side for women

Instructions for patterns of a women's sweatshirt jacket with a side in small and large sizes - cutting and sewing at home

Contents of the instruction:

1. Description of patterns.
2. What patterns are included in the set of patterns for a women's sweatshirt jacket with a side.
3. Description of the design of the style of this combined sweatshirt - jacket.
4. What can you make a sweatshirt or jacket from and how much fabric is needed.
5. How to buy and download ready-made sweatshirt-jacket patterns printed on a home printer or plotter.
6. How to cut a combined women's sweatshirt with a side cut using ready-made patterns.
7. How to sew a sweatshirt at home using household sewing machines.

Buy and download this pattern

Pattern description:

Patterns of a women's sweatshirt jacket with a side

Sizes: 40-52 and 52-64.

File format: PDF full size and without seam allowances

After paying for the order, you will receive links to download two files Patterns of a women's sweatshirt with a side from 40 to 52 or from 52 to 64 sizes:

1. PDF file A4, adapted for printing patterns on sheets of A4 paper in any program on any device, including mobile phones.
2. Multi-format PDF file for printing on sheets of any size from A0 to A4 on a printer or plotter using Adobe Reader.

Sewing difficulty level is medium - you will need confident cutting and sewing skills.

The style is suitable for all types of female figures, including figures with large breasts.

The pattern is for home use only. For sewing you will need a household overlocker with knitted stitch

See also how to set up overlock

Complete set of patterns for a women's sweatshirt-jacket with a side

(picture 1)

1. Yoke pattern
2. Pattern of the Back + Side of the shelf in one piece.
3. Pattern of a shelf with marking of the pocket location.
4. Non-stop sleeve patterns.
5. Pocket pattern (burlap).
6. Collar pattern.

Sleeve cuffs are rectangles. How to cut them is described below.

Description of the design of a women's sweatshirt with a side

This is a sweatshirt (jacket) of a loose silhouette with a non-stop sleeve under the cuff.

The style can be sewn like a sweatshirt - without a zipper, and like a jacket - with a zipper.

The front has a relief with a dart, which makes the style suitable for all types of female figures, including curved figures with large breasts.

The side of the shelf is integral with the back, and this is not only to make the style intricate. By losing the side seam, the sweatshirt jacket will allow you to get rid of the thickening that is usually at hand in the place where the armhole and the side-sleeve seam meet. The absence of thickening will make it easy to sew this style of sweatshirt or jacket from fairly thick fabrics.

The pocket is large enough, as it reaches the bottom of the jacket.

You will see a “straight hem” marking - for a sweatshirt or jacket of a simplified style.

Please note that the jacket can be sewn without a cuff at the bottom of the barrel back. The pattern also provides for this option. This will also simplify processing.

What to make a jacket or sweatshirt from

Both traditional footer and fleece, as well as faux fur, footer with fur, thick knitwear, any thick knitwear that imitates the look of coat fabric, as well as loose coat fabric, are suitable.

In a word, you can stick to tradition or experiment with loden, bouclé knitwear and any short faux fur.

Cuff fabric or ready-made cuffs will be used - decide for yourself.

The total fabric consumption for a plain product with a width of 180 cm will be from 120 to 160 cm.

The consumption for combined products for small sizes with a width of 150 and 180 cm will be the same - “dark” fabric 70 cm, “light” fabric - 80 cm.

For combined products of large sizes, a width of 180 cm is desirable, since a smaller width will significantly increase the consumption of “light” fabric.

So, the consumption of “dark” fabric with a width of 150 – 180 cm will be 80 cm.

Consumption of “light” with a width of 180 cm is 90 – 100 cm, and with a width of 150 cm – 150 cm

The consumption of a cuff strip 10 cm wide will be 140 – 170 cm.

If you buy cuff knitwear, then take into account its width - consumption is 10 - 20 cm.

Instructions on how to buy, how to print yourself and others

How to choose a size without using tables and taking measurements

What height are the patterns for?

How to buy a pattern ready-made electronic pattern

How to print a pattern at home in full size on A4 sheets or on sheets of any other size

How to assemble a pattern after printing

Simple patterns for dresses, sweatshirts, skirts and trousers in full size Free

How to cut a jacket or sweatshirt with a side using a ready-made pattern

Before cutting, as usual, we determine the length of the sleeve and adjust it if necessary.

And let's talk about the marks on the edge, as well as the design of the non-stop sleeve (picture 2).

The highest point of the edging is equidistant from the back and front cuts, that is, it is in the middle - we folded the pattern in half and got the highest point, and at the same time the middle lobe line.

And, if you divide the pattern into four parts, you will also get riffle lines. On 2 drawing Only the line of the elbow roll is shown. If you need to save fabric, the sleeve can be cut along this line (see Fig. 2 in the bubble).

Let me remind you that the front part of the sleeve is where the sleeve is concave, the elbow is where the sleeve is convex.

Let's now take a closer look at the Back-Barrel pattern. The cuff line is marked on it. For convenience, we will call it the “lower cuff”. If you have a “bottom cuff”, as in the photo, cut off a fragment from the back pattern of the “bottom cuff” area and measure the length of the line - all this is shown 2 drawing.

We will cut a part from cuff fabric based only on its length. The “bottom cuff” should be slightly shorter – 2–5 cm (optional) than the cut line to which it will be stitched. To cut it, we will only need to cut off the ends of this blank according to the pattern (Fig. 2 below right).

As for the collar, it is better to cut it out when the neck of the jacket is ready. The collar pattern included is only suitable for the jacket. For a sweatshirt, just a strip of cuff fabric. The collar should also be 2–4 cm shorter than the neckline.

Now for the seam allowances.

To avoid confusion, we will make allowances of 1 cm.

Under the zipper you can use 1,5 cm, but for a semi-skimmed sweatshirt, an allowance is not needed and the shelf will fit on the fold of the fabric.

In addition, WITHOUT allowances, we cut out sections of the neckline, armhole, sleeve cap and pocket - bottom, top, half-skid. For a sweatshirt, a half-skid pocket will most likely require a seam and, therefore, an allowance of 1 cm.

An example layout is shown in 3 drawing.

After cutting, do not forget to make notches along the entry line of the pocket and put chalk marks on the cuff blank, which will go along the bottom of the back. Using these marks and the notches of the pocket parts you will assemble it.

Is a notch necessary at the highest point of the sleeve cap?

It is not necessary, since you will join the sleeve seam with the side seam mark and distribute the piping evenly over the armhole.

How to sew a sweatshirt jacket with a side

Let's start by setting up the overlocker - how to set up overlock

And machine settings - we will need a narrow and long zigzag stitch. The seam should stretch. This approach will allow you to avoid hasty repairs to your sweatshirt jacket.

1. Iron the “bottom cuff” piece lengthwise.
2. We begin the assembly by stitching the yoke and stitching the “bottom cuff”. These parts can be sewn to the back using an overlocker using a knitted seam or a narrow zigzag stitch and overcast. The seam of the yoke is carefully ironed. When ironing the cuff seam, we try not to stretch it.
3. Stitch and iron the bust dart.
4. Sew the pocket blanks to the front and to the cuff along the notches and marks. We sew only along the line of entry into the pocket, without going beyond its borders. We sew it to the “lower cuff” by placing the pocket blank under the cuff, or more precisely, we adjust the “lower cuff” to the pocket. The optimal stitch is zigzag.
5. We sew the shelf and back along the relief. But first, the burlap on top (horizontal cuts) needs to be stitched using an overlocker. To make the task easier, you should pin together the parts, aligning the notches at the waist, as well as the top and bottom of the seam to the hem of the shelf. Lastly, we chop as much as needed in the gaps and at the entrance to the pocket. We sew with a narrow zigzag, and then overcast. We iron the seam, we iron the pocket.
6. We straighten the pocket parts along the shelf and baste or pin them together with the shelf. The free edges of the burlap should fit under the hem of the shelf and under the zipper. If you are sewing a sweatshirt without a zipper, then the burlap will have to be secured horizontally.
7. Zipper and bottom shelf.
8. Collar.
9. Sleeves and cuffs.