Vera Olkhovskaya
It is especially difficult to do this if the figure differs markedly from the conditionally proportional one.
Start by drawing the construction lines and verticals that you normally use to build a base drawing onto the journal drawing.
Tip: in order not to spoil the magazine, first cover the page with a “file” that is used to store documents, and draw lines already on it.
draw the lines waist, hips, Breast (through the centers of the bulges of the mammary glands), as well as half skid. It is possible that, due to the pose of the fashion model, the horizontal lines will not be parallel to each other, and the half-skid will turn out to be curved (Fig. 1).
In addition to the above lines, you may need
- horizontal base of the neck, drawn through the jugular cavity with an equal distance from both shoulder points and
- armhole vertical, corresponding to the vertical angle of the armhole in the base drawing.
For complex styles, additional lines can be applied to typical figures by placing them between pairs of existing ones:
between waist and hips
between waist and chest
between grudyu and the base of the neck,
between the half-skid and the armhole (Fig. 2).
Sometimes it is more convenient to place one, and two or even three additional lines between pairs of base lines.
There are no general rules here, it all depends on the copied style and the type of the customer's figure.
On fig. 3 we see an example of proportional copying of a style onto a figure of another type.
Obviously a stocky woman with relatively short legs doesn't fit cropped trousers and perhaps the jacket needed to be made a bit shorter.
This would allow the legs to "lengthen" a bit. This suggests a conclusion: strictly proportional copying is not always good.
It is better to proceed from the features of the figure.
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Fur coats and coats
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Features of copying models from the magazine for different figures
For fIgurs with such features would be more suitable for classic full-length trousers narrowed from the knee, that is, reaching to the level of the heel and with ironed “arrows”.
We can agree with the jacket: semi-reliefs coming out of the armhole and forming detachable barrels make the figure less heavy, and the elongated yoke does not focus on the girl's wide face.
But let's leave the reasoning about the figures and move on to the next stage, at which a base drawing with a tuck for the chest corresponding to the style is selected and made.
If it is not possible to build a base with the desired position of the tuck for the chest, then it is transferred.
The same lines are applied to the base as shown in the photo or drawing of the copied style (Fig. 4).
When the preparatory work is completed, you can easily determine the position of all the elements of the style on the base pattern. Finally, we run the simulation.