Vera Olkhovskaya
Quite often, the facings of the armhole or neckline do not fit entirely on the fabric.
You have to cut them out of small patches, which is a considerable difficulty even for experienced tailors.
Let's try to simplify this task as much as possible.
Step by Step instructions
Having cut out the facing of the dublerin, cut it into the required number of parts.
Fragments sign and number.
Glue the fragments on the fabric flaps, taking into account the seam allowances, which will combine the parts of the facing into one piece.
Cut out the facing fragments and stitch, iron the stitching seams.
Further processing does not differ from the usual (see. "Processing the neck and armholes with facings").
On fig. 1 shows the simplest example of division into two fragments of a sprout facing: “a” is a whole facing of dublerin; “b” - ready-made one-piece turning of the sprout with seam allowances; "in" - the same detail, consisting of two fragments.
To make the facing of the sprout can also be made up of a larger number of parts, which may even be asymmetrical.
But it is advisable to cut out the detail of the neck facing in one piece or, in extreme cases, from two symmetrical parts.
On fig. 2 shows a one-piece neck facing from dublerin - “a”, a finished one-piece piece of a neck facing with allowances for seams - “b” and “c” - the same neck facing, consisting of two symmetrical fragments.
Armhole stitching tips
With facing armholes, everything is the same (Fig. 3).
They can cut even entirely, as shown in Fig. 3a - dubbing.
But traditionally, the details of the facings for the armholes are made in one piece for the armholes of the back and in one piece for the armholes of the shelf - fig. 6 b.
If they do not fit on small lunges, they are cut into two or more fragments (Fig. 3c).
There are options when armhole facings are combined in the area of the shoulder and side seam to avoid thickening.
And, in conclusion, an example when the combination of parts is desirable, but additional touches are undesirable (Fig. 4).
The facings for the vest, as usual, are trimmed from the dubbing according to the pattern or according to the details of the cut after trying on.
As you can see in the figure, they exactly repeat the outlines of the sections of the shelf and back.
The dubbing is laid on the wrong side of the fabric, in such a way as to combine the hem and the facing of the sprout (butt).
The facings of the bottom of the back are also united along the tuck.
Seam allowances - technological.
Armhole facings in this case can be both composite and solid.
Patterns of women's jackets and coats
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Clothing for men in patterns
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