Coat pattern "with a large rack"

Do-it-yourself coat - instructions on how to sew to a finished pattern

Read this guide:

1. Description of the pattern, style and consumption of fabric for a coat.
2. How to download and print the finished pattern of this coat.
3. Features of the pattern of this women's coat with their own hands.
4. How to sew this women's coat with your own hands step by step.

Buy and download a pattern of a women's coat

Description of the pattern, style and consumption of fabric for a coat

Electronic pattern of a coat "with a big rack".

Sizes: 40-52 and 52-62 (the buyer receives ALL sizes of the selected gradation).

File format for download in order:

PDF in full size and without seam allowances.

After paying for the order, you will receive links to download two files coat patterns of your chosen size gradation:

1. PDF file A4, adapted for printing patterns on sheets of A4 paper in any program on any device, including mobile phones.
2. Multi-format PDF file for printing on sheets of any size from A0 to A4 on a printer or plotter using Adobe Reader.

The difficulty level of sewing a coat with a large stand is PROFESSIONAL, that is, the coat pattern is NOT suitable for self-learning to cut and sew at home. This style may seem too complicated for home couturiers who have mastered sewing dresses on their own from scratch. When buying a pattern, remember that you will need specific professional skills in cutting and sewing to sew a coat.

The style is suitable for most types of figures - the additional relief on the shelf facilitates the fit. This coat will look good on girls and women of any age, height and fullness.

Fabric consumption will be from 250 to 330 cm with a width of 140 cm.

The consumption of lining fabric, taking into account the consumption of burlap pockets with a width of 140 cm, will be up to 200 cm.

And dublerin - from 115 to 125 cm, depending on the size.

For a more accurate calculation, lay out the patterns of the desired size, after adjusting the patterns in length. This must be done, of course, before buying fabric.

The set of coat patterns "with a large stand" includes (picture 1)

1. back patterns - middle and side parts;
2. shelf patterns - the middle part and two barrels;
3. sleeve patterns - front and bottom halves.

The facing of the stand and the pick are NOT included in the set of patterns, since in most cases these parts are cut out after trying on and adjusting (correcting the outlines of the side and collar) of the product.

How to download and print the finished pattern of this coat

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Buy and download this women's coat pattern

Features of the pattern of this women's coat with their own hands

Seam allowances when cutting a coat with a large stand

The seam allowances when cutting this coat are regular (picture 2), that is, “vertical and lateral sections of 1 cm; at the bottom of the coat 3,5 - 4 cm; at the bottom of the sleeve - 2,5 - 3 cm; armholes and sleeves - without allowances for seams; the top of the rack and the edge of the board 0,7 - 1 cm.

Noteworthy is only the allowance for the middle seam of the back - it is made taking into account the share direction and the allowance for the slot.

As for the middle part of the shelf, the one-piece part of the selection is not an allowance, but part of the part. The width of a one-piece selection should be within 7 - 12 cm, but it is better to determine it directly during layout so as not to increase consumption.

Do-it-yourself pick-up pattern in this style of women's coat

For the convenience of cutting a one-piece part of the selection, you can cut a rectangle of dublerin according to its size and apply it to the shelf when laying out and cutting. The length of the rectangular blank is approximately equal to the length from the waist to the hips, the maximum possible width is 12 cm (then it is easy to narrow it to the desired one).

But ... as always, there is a "but"! ..

When determining the length of this one-piece part of the hem, the couturier must take into account the position of the buttonhole, since the seam connecting the parts of the hem should not coincide with the buttonhole, although this seam may coincide with the position of the belt on the figure, that is, with the waist line. And, of course, the position of the belt on the figure should not coincide with the loop.

For more details on the technique of cutting combined boards, see by this link...

How to cut dubbing details when sewing this coat

It is better to cut the details of dubbing according to the same patterns as the details of the "top" (picture 2). Please note that the middle part of the shelf is completely duplicated. The side details of the shelf should be duplicated below the pocket if, as in the photo, it will be located in relief.

If the pocket is, for example, overhead, then you can duplicate the side details of the shelf to the level of the waist, that is, a couple of centimeters above the position of the belt.

The details of the back are duplicated below the level of the shoulder blades.

In addition, strips will be cut out later to duplicate the bottom.

Please note that the dubbing of the middle part of the shelf necessarily consists of three separate parts: the middle part of the shelf, the one-piece part of the selection, the strip for hem (picture 3).

Do-it-yourself lining pattern in such a women's coat

Cut the linings for this coat with large stand can be done:

1. for a product with already processed selections;
2. on the same patterns.

In any case, cutting the lining can wait until the coat is ready for the second fitting, but we'll look at that now.

The patterns of the middle parts of the shelf and back are cut into parts: facing + lining and pick + lining. To cut the patterns, we again use the already cut rectangular part of the dubbing - the lower one-piece part of the selection.

Having cut the patterns into the parts we need, we cut out the facing for the rack and the selection from the doubler WITHOUT seam allowances. We will add allowances later when we glue these details onto the fabric.

Open the coat on the fabric

Now that the main points of the cut are described, you can proceed to the layout (picture 4). Knowing the nuances of cutting individual parts, you will understand the logic of their placement on the fabric.

Please note that jack-type layouts (picture 4) are only valid for lint-free fabrics. Fabrics with pile require the same direction for all cut details.

And, perhaps, the last nuance in cutting the coat, concerning the classic two-seam sleeve. The share direction of the upper half is determined by the extreme points of the front seam. In the lower half, the strict direction of the shared thread is not necessary to observe.

We cut out the belt from the remnants of the fabric. Lobar - along.

The cutting of the lining, as mentioned above, can be carried out according to the product with processed pick-ups and (only in this case!) With unfinished side seams. But now we will consider cutting the lining of the coat according to the patterns (picture 5).

It's simple - lay out the patterns, combining the back and shelf.

Pay attention to the tuck slot for lining the back in the area of ​​​​the shoulder blades. For women's clothing, it is not necessary, but since in any case we need an allowance for the middle seam of the shelf to process the open slots at the bottom, then the slot on the lining in the area of ​​​​the shoulder blades will not hurt.

We will replace the tucks of the back and shelves with soft folds. From the side of the connection of the lining with the selection, add a double allowance - 2 cm.

The fractional direction for the sleeve is not required. The sleeve can be cut both lengthwise and across, combining the upper and lower halves along the front seam. Of course, if it's economical.

When calculating the amount of lining, do not forget to add 20 - 22 cm to the pockets. Although, if you have left pieces of lining from other products, they can also be used.

How to sew this women's coat with your own hands step by step

How to sew your own coat with your own hands - read this link about the technique cutting and sewing coats in general.

And in particular for this style, the sequence of work is as follows:

1. Cutting the details of the "top" and the details of dubbing (picture 2).
2. Sticking dubbing, preparing and conducting the first fitting.
3. Processing of a shelf, a back, pockets in a relief.
4. Cutting and processing the lining, connecting the lining with the "top".
5. Sleeve processing. Preparation for the second fitting and its implementation.
6. Vmetirovaniye of a sleeve, processing of a bottom, the third fitting.
7. Processing armholes, loops, buttons, belt, finishing ironing, steaming, drying on a mannequin.

See additionally on the topic of sewing a coat with your own hands:

Video master class how stick doublerin on the details of the coat ...

И video tutorial how to process tucks and do wet-heat treatment ...

See video master class - how to sew the loops of a coat ...