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Vera Olkhovskaya
1.1. Vertical proportions of the figure. Six or eight?
Without going into the details of the debate about beauty, let's turn to the vertical proportions of the figures that are offered by artists.
A conditionally proportional human figure, if we take the height of the head from the chin to the crown as a unit of measurement, consists of 6 - 8 heads.
For example, Greek sculptures depicting goddesses are about 7 heads tall...
How to choose the right foundation... Small bust || Chapter first. 1.3.-1.3.1.
Vera Olkhovskaya
In addition to those horizontal lines that we encountered when building the base of the back (height of the barrel, waist, hips and bottom), two more will be added to the shelf: the height of the chest and the level of the armhole for the shelf.
See also free article about how to build a pattern-free basis for full
How to build drawing of a pattern-base for stretch
Note. The level of the armhole of the shelf is needed for all the bases except for the base with a breast tuck from the shoulder.
Simple patterns for two flared skirts 4 wedges $1.00 |
Pattern "simple midi-maxi dress" $2.00 You save: 20.00% $1.60 |
Vera Olkhovskaya
Girls and ladies with small breasts can use the base of the shelf with side tuck for chest, if the centers of the bulge of the chest are located below the level of the height of the armhole of the shelf on 2 см and more. If the level of chest height is higher than necessary, it is better to stop at the breast tuck or tuck coming out of the armhole (see photo). 1.3.3. how to build a base pattern that is most suitable for a medium-sized bust).
For the base of the shelf with a side tuck, extend the horizontal lines of the waist and hips from the drawing of the back. Then, from the horizontal of the waist, set aside the measurement dpt and draw another horizontal line. It can be considered the original (Fig. 10) ...
Pattern basis for a bust of the average sizes and average height || 1.3.-1.3.3.
Vera Olkhovskaya
The pattern has reached the greatest popularity in mass tailoring. embossed base (or tuck) from the armhole, as it is suitable for all kinds of shapes and sizes, even remotely suitable for the definition of "medium".
There are many differences in the proposed framework. Pay attention to how the increase should be distributed in this case ...
A new foundation for slender women with large breasts || 1.3. - 1.3.4.
Vera Olkhovskaya
This base is designed for custom tailoring, so fitting is of particular importance here (and fig. 13 below). On the samples I sewed, the pattern showed itself well.
The construction of the shelf begins, as usual, from the initial angle formed by the intersection at an angle 900, the original horizontal and vertical half-slip ...
Pattern basis and types of female figures. Formulas for large size || 1.4-1.5.
The choice between tuck and relief may depend not only on the desire of the customer, but also be determined by the features of the figure.
In addition to changing some rules in the construction of pattern drawings, more attention should be paid to the ratio of the proportions of the bulges of the chest and abdomen. It is on the ratio of the bulges of the chest and abdomen that not only the base, but also the style of the product largely depends. Of course, if you are interested in a good fit.
Pattern basis for full with a barrel, a relief and a tuck for a breast. Basics for large sizes || 4.6.2 - 5.1.
Vera Olkhovskaya
This base pattern is suitable for full and very full ladies, whose chest and stomach are equally protruding. It is worth noting that the base can be used both in its “pure form” for cutting sheath dresses, which are suitable for sewing beginners, and for modeling / designing other styles and types of women's clothing. It “tolerates” the addition of a middle seam of any shape and adapts perfectly to patterns on figures with a relatively small waist, full arms and full hips.
The base can be made on paper or in a patternless way. In the second method, the fabric is bent along, the edges are combined. The middle line of the back is located towards the edge (Fig. 18) ...
The basis for a pear-shaped figure. Patterns of a basis for the big sizes. || 4.6.3 - 5.1.
Vera Olkhovskaya
The pear is the next type of female figure to look out for with relatively small breasts, small shoulders and well developed curvy hips.
Read more about the types of figures and changes in the formulas of the basics possible in previous chapters.
It is for such figures that the basis of a jacket pattern with a chest tuck and a tuck from the armhole is most suitable. The jacket can be cut both on paper and on fabric.
If you are drawing on fabric, fold it in half with the edge towards you (Fig. 20). Step back from the edges 6-8 cm and draw a vertical line. On it, build the middle seam of the back of the desired shape. Then take care of the horizontals. Step back from the established cut 4 см for a hem and draw a horizontal bottom. On paper, indents from the left and bottom slices, of course, are not needed ...
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Pattern "vest with edging" $1.80 |
The basis for the figures of the "apple" type. || 4.6.4
Vera Olkhovskaya
As you guessed, there remains only the basis for full owners of a voluminous protruding belly, which protrudes more than the chest. Unfortunately, earlier figures of this type, which received the code name "apple", did not exist for fashion designers. The only exception was Alla Pugacheva. For her, Vyacheslav Zaitsev came up with hoodies, which over time became unchanged and, perhaps, even the main detail of the prima donna's image.
This foundation is suitable for ladies with any volume and shape of the chest, with any type of posture.
The most common sleeve bases are: straight sleeve, embossed sleeve, classic two-seam sleeve and plus size sleeve.
Vera Olkhovskaya
Sleeve patterns cause the greatest excitement among novice couturiers, since it is believed that it is the sleeve pattern that provides 100% success in tucking it in and processing the armhole.
This chapter discusses the construction of drawings of the most common patterns of sleeves that are available for understanding and mastering by novice tailors.
This is a straight sleeve that serves as a baseline for most sleeves and an excellent base for subsequent sleeves. Modeling.
Tulip skirt pattern $2.00 You save: 50.00% $1.00 |
One shoulder dress pattern $2.00 |
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