Vera Olkhovskaya
The choice between tuck and relief may depend not only on the desire of the customer, but also be determined by the features of the figure.
In addition to changing some rules in the construction of pattern drawings, more attention should be paid to the ratio of the proportions of the bulges of the chest and abdomen. It is on the ratio of the bulges of the chest and abdomen that not only the base, but also the style of the product largely depends. Of course, if you are interested in a good fit.
1.4. Large size formulas
Conventionally, all female figures into three types:
- the chest protrudes (Fig. 15);
- the stomach protrudes (Fig. 16);
- the chest and abdomen protrude (Fig. 17).
How to determine what type a particular figure belongs to?
Note 12. To determine what type the figure belongs to, take a cord (braid, rope) with a length 100 - 120 cm. Tie a small weight to one of the ends. Taking the cord by the end without load in your right hand, when the load at the other end stops swinging, bring the cord closer to the figure so that it touches the most protruding point of the front along the semi-skid. It is important to maintain a strictly sheer (vertical) position of the cord.
For adjacent styles, ladies with protruding breasts can be recommended bases with reliefs and semi-reliefs. With protruding chest and abdomen, tucks are more suitable. Well, if the stomach protrudes - a cool expansion.
1.5. Basics for large sizes.
Large size: change in formulas.
When constructing a drawing for a conditionally full figure (starting from the 50th size), additional rules should be observed compared to the rules for constructing a drawing for thin ones.
1. Pb decreases to 1 - 1,5 cm.
2. The difference between the width of the backrest and the width of the shelf increases to 6 см, since the volume of the body is increased from the front. If we keep the difference 4 см, the side seam will look pushed forward and the fit of the back will deteriorate.
Based on the above rules, the calculations for the back will look like this:
1/2 (Sat + Pb) minus 3 cm и 1/2 (Cr + Pg) minus 3 cm, With Pb = 1 cm, Pg \u4d XNUMX cm.
Shelf calculations:
1/2(Sat + Pb) + 3 cm и 1/2(Sg + Pg) + 3 cm.
3. The sprout is built in the usual way, however, the side point is additionally raised by 0,5 см. The width of the neck in most cases is increased in comparison with the sprout by 0,5-1 cm, especially if the product is sewn with a fastener in the center or with a V-neck. Formula - 1/3Ssh + 1 or 1,5 см.
4. The shoulder tuck is increased. Its solution is 3-4 cm, length 9-10 cm.
5. To the value of Nps add 0,5 см, since the roundness of the back is not fixed when measuring Npc.
6. Armhole angle bisector - 4 см.
7. Deflection at the waist decreases in most cases to 0,5-1 cm. Width of waist darts - from 1 to 3 cm. For full ones, deeper tucks are not made out, as this emphasizes completeness.
8. To build a waist tuck along the back, the waist segment, taking into account the lateral deflection and the middle seam, is divided in half and, having reduced the resulting value, lay it off from the center of the back to the right. A vertical line is drawn through the given point. On both sides of the straight line, the width of the tuck is distributed. As for the lower part of the tuck (the part that is located below the level of the waist), it is recommended to deviate its middle line towards the side cut on 0,5-1 cm.
9. The shelf should be cut out on 1 - 1,5 cm longer, especially with a large bust or a strongly protruding belly. But for figures with strongly protruding buttocks, the shelf is cut on 1 см in short.
Council 4. If you do not have enough experience and have the opportunity to perform at least one fitting, it is enough to leave a large allowance - 4 or 5 см - to correct the line of the bottom.
See also building base patterns for full ones with two side tucks for the chest in the public domain.
Join my community on Viber...
