A new foundation for slender women with large breasts || 1.3. - 1.3.4.

Vera Olkhovskaya

This base is designed for custom tailoring, so fitting is of particular importance here (and fig. 13 below). On the samples I sewed, the pattern showed itself well.

The construction of the shelf begins, as usual, from the initial angle formed by the intersection at an angle 90⁰, the original horizontal and vertical half-slip ...

How to calculate and build a foundation

Down from the original horizontal is measured dpt и Wg for the height lines of the waist and chest. The height of the barrel is measured by the back or by measure.

The level of the armhole is calculated according to the drawing of the back: from the distance from the midpoint of the sprout to the level of the height of the barrel, measured along the midline, the tabular value is subtracted (see Fig. armhole reduction chart), which corresponds to the difference between the measures Ds и dpt.

Note 8. If the drawing of the back is not ready by this moment, the formula for calculating the height of the armhole looks like this:

Ds minus Vboch minus Sprout height minus Table value

The level of the hips is located down from the waist to 18 см.

Then, mark the center of the bulge of the chest by measuring rcg on the level of the same name, build a neck, setting aside, in turn, along the original horizontal

1/3Ssh + 0,5cm,

vertically -

(1/3Ssh + 0,5 cm) + 1 cm

and connecting the resulting points with a smooth line.

Chest tuck of this base It is built according to the same principles as the usual breast tuck, the difference is only in the calculation of the solution. On the original horizontal from the side point of the neck, set aside 4-5 cm. Connect the resulting point to the center of the bulge of the chest. This segment is the first line of the chest tuck. It must be shortened at the top 1 см, down on 1,5 см. Connect point "1" with the side point of the neck, this is part of the shoulder seam.

For the subsequent construction of a relief or semi-relief from the breast tuck, extend the first line of the tuck vertically down to the level of the waist. We will return to it later.

Place the leg of the compass in the center of the bulge of the chest and with a radius

Rcg + 2 cm,

draw an arc. On the arc from its intersection with the first tuck line, set aside half the difference between the measurements Shg₁ и Shg₂:

1/2(W₂ minus Shg₁)

Through the obtained point from the top of the tuck, indicated by the point "1,5", draw the second line of the tuck, equalize its length with the first line.

Shoulder cut. From the highest point of the second line of the tuck, make a notch with a compass with a radius equal to the difference between the measure Dp and the already existing segment of the shoulder seam

R = Dp minus 4 cm or 5 см

The second notch should be made from the center of the bulge of the chest with a radius equal to the measure Npp. Connect the resulting shoulder point to the highest point of the second tuck line.

Dart from the armhole for this base.

According to the level of the armhole from the half-skid, set aside

Shg₁ + 0,5 cm

From the obtained point upwards - a perpendicular segment of length 4 -7 cm. After that, you can build a section of the armhole from the shoulder point to the relief.

Note 9. The height of the perpendicular depends on the location of the level of chest height: the higher the chest, the lower the height.

For the highest point of the relief, from point "7" towards the half-skid, step back to 0,7 см. And, extending the horizontal segment at the level of the height of the chest towards the side seam by 5 см, smoothly connect the points "0,7" and "5", and then extend the smoothly resulting curve to the waist.

Calculate the width of the shelf to the side seam using the formula

1/2(Sg + Pg) + 2 cm

set aside according to the height of the barrel.

Having an extreme lateral point, from the width of the armhole common to the front and back, which is equal to 1/4Cr, subtract the width of the back armhole, and set aside the difference from the highest point of the barrel.

Note 10. If the drawing of the back is not ready by this moment, the width of the back armhole can be calculated using the formula

[1/2(Sg + Pg) minus 2 cm] minus [Ws + 1 cm],

that is, from the width of the back to the side seam, subtract the width of the back to the armhole perpendicular.

Let's return to the perpendicular of the armhole of the shelf.

In such bases, the perpendicular of the armhole is equal to the perpendicular that limits the width of the chest. Its height, as mentioned earlier, can be from 4-x to 7 см. Both of these segments are shown in the drawing by dotted lines. In our example earlier, to limit the width of the chest, a segment with a length of 7 см, therefore, for the angle of the armhole, we must also take a segment equal to 7 cm.

After that, it remains to draw the second line of the tuck from the armhole and the relief that continues it. To do this, we already have two points - the highest point of the armhole perpendicular and the point of the top of the tuck, indicated by the number "5". At the waist from the relief, 1/2 of the solution of the waist tuck should be set aside and the resulting point should be connected to the other two.

A very important step is to equalize the lengths of the relief lines, while the second line is extended if necessary.

The solutions of the waist tucks coming out of the reliefs depend on how protruding the stomach is. Middle option - from 1 to 2 cm each.

Let me remind you of the need to lengthen the shelves for ladies with a large bust. For this, the waist and bottom lines are made with a decrease.

The completion of the drawing is shown in fig. 14. The lines of the chest tuck are formed smoothly by shifting the points that complete the lines of this tuck. As you remember, the first line of the chest tuck has already been extended to the waist. Use it to build terrain. The side seam is made with a deflection.

Note 11. There are no strict rules for the design of reliefs of such foundations, especially since in individual tailoring each rule is “adjusted” to the features of the figure. The beauty and smoothness of the lines are important here, which should be checked by the middle detail located between the relief lines.

Fitting. The main changes should concern the relief from the armhole.