Pattern basis for full with a barrel, a relief and a tuck for a breast. Basics for large sizes || 4.6.2 - 5.1.

Vera Olkhovskaya

This base pattern is suitable for full and very full ladies, whose chest and stomach are equally protruding. It is worth noting that the base can be used both in its “pure form” for cutting sheath dresses, which are suitable for sewing beginners, and for modeling / designing other styles and types of women's clothing. It “tolerates” the addition of a middle seam of any shape and adapts perfectly to patterns on figures with a relatively small waist, full arms and full hips.

The base can be made on paper or in a patternless way. In the second method, the fabric is bent along, the edges are combined. The middle line of the back is located towards the edge (Fig. 18) ...

Back.

We start, as always, with horizontal lines. The bottom line coincides with the bottom horizontal cut of the paper. If you cut directly on the fabric, step back from the base cut 4-5 cm on the hem, while the fabric should be folded in half, the edges aligned. Perpendicular to the edges - horizontal.

The distance from the bottom to the waist is equal to the measure du, from the waist to the original - measure dpt. The level of the barrel (or armhole) is determined by the measurement Dboch.

When the contours are ready, step back from the edges 1 см and draw a vertical back. On this vertical, build a middle seam that matches the features of your figure. Then, draw a sprout. Its width is

1/3Ssh + 0,5cm

Height -

1/3 sprout width

Do not forget about the need to raise the lateral point of the sprout by 0,5 см.

Shoulder: with an imaginary compass, a notch is made from the lateral point of the sprout with the radius of the length of the shoulder -

Dp + 2 cm,

where 2 см - fit and extension for shoulder pad. A tuck is not necessary, as excess slack in the armhole area can be taken into the relief made from the armhole. But if the figure is stooped, then you can draw a tuck. In this case

R₁ = Dp + vyt. + 2 cm

The notch of the shoulder slope is made from the intersection of the middle line of the back (or the middle seam of the back) and the horizontal of the waist,

R₂ = Npp + 1 cm

Here 1 см - the necessary allowance for full plus allowance for the shoulder pad. Shoulder pad for large size products, as a rule, is selected with a minimum thickness.

Part width according to barrel level

ws + 1 cm

At the obtained point, build up a perpendicular with a length 7 см. Point "7" will serve as an auxiliary point for building armholes and relief. To build an armhole section belonging to the back, you only need to connect the shoulder point and the "seven" with a slight deflection. After that, mark the width of the back at the waist, hips and bottom.

Back width at the waist = width at the level of the barrel minus 2,5 or 3 cm

Hip Width = Barrel Width

Back width at the bottom = width at the hips + 1 or 1,5 cmBut

in direct products, the allowance for expansion (1-1,5 cm) can be omitted, but in extended ones you can add 2-3 cm.

It remains only to draw relief.

Note 14. If you cut without patterns, add a seam allowance to the finished part of the back 1 см and, before proceeding to the drawing of the shelf, calculate the width of the entire layout with all seam allowances, the width of the barrel with seam allowances at the level of the hips and the width of the shelf with seam allowances.

Shelf.

We extend the horizontal lines of the back: bottom, waist, hips and barrel. Then you should mark the center of the bulge of the chest and build the neck. Let me remind you that

neck width = sprout width + 1 cm,

neck height = neck width

When the neck is ready, the shoulder already has one point - this is the side point of the neck. The second point of the shoulder segment, as you remember, is formed at the intersection of two arcs. Their radii:

R₁ = Npp и R₂ = Dp

The level of the armhole of the shelf is found in the standard way: according to the drawing of the back, the so-called armhole height is measured and its value is reduced in accordance with the table.

Set aside the shelves according to the level of the armhole

Ш₁ + 1 cm

From the resulting point upwards, construct a perpendicular segment. Its length 7 см. Point "7" is the starting point of the relief and one of the points that form the curve of the armhole. Build an armhole section connecting the shoulder point and the "seven".

Let's go further: we will limit the shelf detail in width.

Shelf width at the waist \u2,5d width of the shelf at the level of the armhole minus 3 or XNUMX cm

Shelf width at the bottom \u1,5d shelf width at waist level + 2 or XNUMX cm

The boundary line of the shelf here is auxiliary, but it is drawn smoothly.

Barrels.

Let's start by defining the width of the part:

(Sg + Pg + 1 cm) minus (back width + shelf width to relief)

The result obtained should fit between the shelf and the back, if you step back from the shelf 1 см. This 1 см, if you cut on paper, you will need it when building a tuck for the chest. If cutting is carried out on fabric, then the formula will look like this:

(Сг + Пг + 2 seams) minus (the width of the back with a seam + the width of the shelf to the relief with a seam)

From the perpendicular of the back descending from the point "7" to the right, set aside the width of the armhole, which is equal to

1/4Cr, but not more 15 см

For ladies of Slavic sizes with a large fullness of the arms, the armhole may turn out to be narrow, but it is better to cut it when trying on. The second perpendicular, which determines the width of the armhole, you guessed it, also has a height 7 см. Between the "sevens" draw a smooth curve, the middle of which touches the horizontal level of the barrel.

After building the armhole, narrow the barrel at the waist. The narrowing is performed from the auxiliary lines, which are shown in the drawing with a thin dotted line. From the side of the shelf it will be 3,5 - 4 cmand 1 - 2 cm from the back, however, it depends on the characteristics of the figure. If the fit is insufficient (compare the sum of the waist pieces in the drawing and the measurement Comply), you can build a tuck on the barrel (Fig. 44).

Detail width at the bottom = barrel width at the hips + 1,5 or 2 cm

Dart for the chest on the details of the shelf built according to the same rules as the side tuck. That is, from the center of the bulge of the chest you need to retreat 2 см towards the barrel along the horizontal line of the same name. The tuck solution is equal to the difference in the lengths of the relief lines of the shelf and barrel. They should be measured exactly along the curves from the "sevens" to the level of the waist. The solution is deposited halfway from the height of the chest up and down, and the resulting points are smoothly connected to the "two". The lines of the tuck are equalized with a longer one (so that the construction of the shelf and the barrel do not overlap each other, you add one extra centimeter).

The missing sections of the relief line are drawn smoothly. It is desirable to extend the shelf and barrels by 1,5 - 2 cm, although you can leave the length correction until fitting.

Seam allowances (fig. 19): sprout, neck, armhole - behind the line, the rest along 1 or by 1,5 см. If you did not lengthen the front, increase the bottom cut allowance to 4 - 5 cm.

Side seam and additional tuck. If desired, the barrel can be cut, and the resulting parts can be combined with a shelf and back. The cut line divides the armhole in half, an additional tuck is possible on it.

См. также construction of a base pattern with two side tucks for full 1.5.1. in free access

Ready-made patterns of sheath dresses

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