A small, low-lying bust || 1.3.-1.3.2.

Vera Olkhovskaya

Girls and ladies with small breasts can use the base of the shelf with side tuck for chest, if the centers of the bulge of the chest are located below the level of the height of the armhole of the shelf on 2 см and more. If the level of chest height is higher than necessary, it is better to stop at the breast tuck or tuck coming out of the armhole (see photo). 1.3.3. how to build a base pattern that is most suitable for a medium-sized bust).

For the base of the shelf with a side tuck, extend the horizontal lines of the waist and hips from the drawing of the back. Then, from the horizontal of the waist, set aside the measurement dpt and draw another horizontal line. It can be considered the original (Fig. 10) ...

From the original down, measure the measurement Wg and draw a line for the height of the chest, then once again from the original down, set aside armhole height.

Rule 3. To find the height of the armhole of the shelf, it is necessary to measure, according to the drawing of the back, the distance from the midpoint of the sprout to the midpoint of the level of the barrel. Now the value obtained as a result of the measurement must be reduced in accordance with the table for reducing the armholes of the shelf (see tables for reducing the armholes) and measure the result, as it was said, down from the original horizontal of the shelf.

The next step is the verticals. Draw a line perpendicular to the existing ones at the edge of the sheet - this is the half-drift line.

From the intersection of the half-skid with the armhole level line, set aside a small chest width:

Shg₁ + 0,5 cm or 1 см

For kinky figures, net measurement is deferred Shg₁. From the obtained point, draw a perpendicular segment with a length 4-5 cm. Its top is one of the armhole points.

From the same intersection (half-skid line and armhole level line), set aside the width of the shelf to the side seam:

1/2(Sg + Pg) + 2 cm

Move the resulting point to 1 см towards the half-skid and on 1 см up. Point "1" will be used for the armhole and side seam.

If the product has a length to the hips or lower, then limit the drawing in width at the level of the hips, postponing the value from the half-skid

1/2(Sat + Pb) + 2 cm

The width of the neck is laid off along the original horizontal, again from its intersection with the vertical of the half-skid.

Neck width = sprout width

For folded figures, the width can be increased by 0,5 см.

Neck Depth = Neck Width + 1cm

The neck should be drawn with a smooth line.

Shoulder cut. The shoulder point is located at the intersection of two arcs drawn: from the side point of the neck with a radius Dp and from the point of convexity of the chest with a radius Npp.

Connect the resulting intersection point with the side neck point already on the baseline.

Side tuck for chest. Compare the lengths of the barrels (or side vertical segments) of the front and back. The difference is the size of the tuck solution.

Step down 5 cm along the preliminary line of the side seam and set aside the tuck solution from point “5” (Fig. 11). Then, step back from the center of the bulge of the chest along its horizontal line towards the armhole by 2-2,5 cm. Connect the points obtained (“5” with “1”, and the bottom with the bottom side) and equalize the lengths of the sides of the tuck along the longest.

The tuck for the chest, if the pattern is not used for modeling, must be drawn with shaping lines with a bulge 0,5 см, as shown in fig. eleven.

In addition, it should be noted that with a small chest, sometimes it is necessary to shorten the shelf, as shown in the figure, but it is better to do this on a fitting.

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