The basis for a pear-shaped figure. Patterns of a basis for the big sizes. || 4.6.3 - 5.1.

Vera Olkhovskaya

The pear is the next type of female figure to look out for with relatively small breasts, small shoulders and well developed curvy hips.

Read more about the types of figures and changes in the formulas of the basics possible in previous chapters.

It is for such figures that the basis of a jacket pattern with a chest tuck and a tuck from the armhole is most suitable. The jacket can be cut both on paper and on fabric.

If you are drawing on fabric, fold it in half with the edge towards you (Fig. 20). Step back from the edges 6-8 cm and draw a vertical line. On it, build the middle seam of the back of the desired shape. Then take care of the horizontals. Step back from the established cut 4 см for a hem and draw a horizontal bottom. On paper, indents from the left and bottom slices, of course, are not needed ...

The basis for such a figure with your own hands

Set aside the measurement du up from the horizontal bottom (I remind you that this is not literally “skirt length”, but only a conventional name for the distance from the waist level to the desired length of the product) and draw a waist line. Measure length from waist up Ds - and draw the original horizontal for the back. Once again, return to the waist level and set aside the length of the barrel up from it, minus the increase in the freeness of the armhole, which is 2 см:

Dboch minus 2 cm

Mark the level of the barrel or the level of the armhole. In this design, they are the same.

The level of the hips, as usual, is located below the level of the waist by 18-20 cm.

Now let's move on to building a germ.

Sprout Width = 1/3Ssh + 1,2cm + 0,5cm,

where 1,2 см - an increase in the width of the neck, and 0,5 см - bending allowance at the top of the middle seam.

Sprout height = 1/3sprout width

Raise the highest point of the middle seam by 0,2-0,3 cm for working out and shift towards the main building on 0,5 см for a better fit. Shape the sprout by raising its side point to 0,5 см.

Note 15. If the buttocks protrude strongly, an appropriate protrusion of the middle seam is necessary, and the slot is contraindicated. For buttocks of the European type, the slot is appropriate. For protrusion or splines we retreated from the edges 6 - 8 cm.

The next stage is the construction of the shoulder section. As you remember, the shoulder point is formed at the intersection of two serifs. One notch is made from the midpoint along the waist line

R₁ = Vpk + 1 cm,

where 1 см - rise to the shoulder pad. For a full figure you have to take 2 см. Another notch is from the lateral point of the sprout:

R₂ = Dp + 2 cm,

where 2 cm - Shoulder extension and fit.

Note 16. It should be noted that shoulder darts in jackets and coats are made only for very stooped figures with a round back or with protruding shoulder blades.

Note 17. High shoulder pads should be used not only when fashion requires it, but also for figures with sloping shoulders. Most "pears" have just such shoulders.

For a visual comparison, the gray bold dotted line shows the outlines of the sprout and the shoulder seam for a light dress without an allowance for a shoulder pad.

Back width to armhole corner

ws + 1,5 cm

Set aside the required value and put a point. From it (the top of the armhole angle of the back) should be set aside to the right 1/8 armhole width. Let me remind you that

Armhole width = 1/4 (Sg + Pg)

The "1/8" point will determine the position of the back side seam. Lower the vertical down from it. Draw a waist deflection on the vertical 1,5-2,5 cm and hip bulge 0,5-1 cm.

The armhole curve of the back should be completed completely.

Shelf. The horizontals of the bottom, hips, armhole height (barrel) and waist are extended from the drawing of the back.

6 Tip: for professionals. If you are patternless (on fabric) building the base of the jacket for a figure with very lush hips and / or with a hip volume over 130 см, the drawing of the shelf will have to be placed with the “jack” to the back. To do this, calculate the width of the shelf along the hips, add an allowance for the seams to the value and mark the place where this width “passes”. After that, all the horizontals that were present in the drawing of the back are re-applied and the drawing is continued.

This method of saving is not suitable only for pile fabrics, since all parts on them should be placed in the same direction.

So, when all the horizontal lines of the backrest were extended or drawn anew, it was the turn of the original horizontal shelf. She, as you remember, is located up from the waist line at a distance equal to dpt.

Find the center of the bulge of the chest: from the original down, measure Wg and according to the level obtained from the half-skid towards the construction, set aside rcg.

At the level of the armhole from the half-skid, step back to

Shg₂ + 1 or 1,5 см

From the resulting point, which is also the top of the armhole corner of the shelf, draw a vertical up and down. Let's call it the armhole vertical. After that, limit the detail along the hips, measuring from the half-skid:

(Sat + Pb) minus the width of the back at the hips

draw another vertical - the vertical of the side seam.

The next step: according to the drawing of the back, measure the height and width of the missing part of the armhole, indicated on the drawing of the back by a dark gray triangle. This missing part must be attached to the vertical of the side seam of the shelf. Now we make out the side seam of the shelf. Deflection at the waist from 1,5 to 2,5 cm.

It was the turn of the corner of the armhole of the shelf. It is shaded in the drawing. Return to the vertical drawn from the corner of the armhole (the result of the calculation Shg₂ + 1 cm). Up it from the level of the armhole set aside 5 см and towards the side seam from it - 3-4 cm. Put points "5" and "3". (In the drawing, together with the top of the armhole corner, they are marked with crosses.) Point "3" will determine the position of the side tuck coming from the armhole.

The first line of the side tuck is at a distance 1,5-2 cm (point "2" is marked with a cross) from the intersection of the armhole vertical and the waist horizontal. Through points "3" and "2" draw a straight line down, ending it on 12-15 cm below the waistline. The solution of this tuck at waist level will be from 1,5 to 2 cm, excluding deflections. Deflections should be made along the entire length of the tuck. After you plot the deflection curves on the drawing, the tuck gap will increase by another 1,5-2 cm.

Then, from the center of the bulge of the chest, lower the vertical parallel to the line of the half-skid. On it down from the center, retreat to 4-6 cm. The resulting point is the upper peak of the waist tuck of the shelf. Its lower top is located below the waist on 9-11 cm and shifted to 1 см to the side seam. The tuck solution depends on the shape and volume of the abdomen and can be specified during the fitting.

Now the neck. Its width:

1/3Ssh + 1,2cm

Height:

Neck width + 1 cm

The shoulder cut and breast tuck are built in the usual way (see base with breast tuck). The only difference is that the radius with which the notch is made from the center of the bulge of the chest (to determine the shoulder point) is increased by 1 см:

R₁ = Vpk + 1 cm

Note 18. The base is ready, but if you cut it out on the fabric, do not forget to make allowances for the seams, as well as add an allowance for the fastener and, if a one-piece selection is provided, then an allowance is also needed for it.

Jacket patterns

A simple pattern for beginners of a women's jacket Patterns of a jacket - double-breasted jacket Patterns of jackets in the style of Chanel Pattern jacket-cape Elena Zelenskaya Pattern of a female fitted jacket on an oblique clasp Pattern of a white jacket with an original collar Pattern "jacket on one button" Pattern "jacket with peplum-Tatyanka"