Cutting and sewing technique

Scuffs of jeans turning into small holes: cut out a patch from dublerin in place so that it goes on a “healthy” fabric by 2-3 cm and stick it from the inside out;

from the face - one more layer from the same fabric as the whole product or, if there is none, from dubbing with a 1-2 cm approach to the "healthy" one.

Then, with a dense wide zigzag, fill in the hole and attrition.

There are subtleties: it is better to cut the dubbing edge with serrated scissors;

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Let's start with the fact that the shape of the abdomen in both men and women are different.

And, based on this, people wear trousers in different ways:

1. under the abdomen, if the abdomen is located high and protrudes in the stomach area,
2. at the level of the lumbar deflection, if the stomach protrudes evenly in the upper and lower parts
3. and even above the stomach, if its protruding part is located below the waist.

In addition, women wear trousers with a high bodice, which can end directly under the bust.

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Processing of armholes and necklines in a light dress is usually performed after trying on, on which their outlines are specified.

If you sew a product according to ready-made and tested patterns or there are special instructions in the description of sewing in this regard, the processing sequence can be changed.

In this article with a video, the method of processing by turning is considered.

In descriptions for models, the words “allowances” and “increases” are often found. "Stocks" go out of our lives along with pure wool fabrics.

A novice couturier should be aware that all drawings are made without seam allowances and these seam allowances should be added when cutting.

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The trouser clasp causes the greatest difficulty for beginners. Here is a simple, but well-established option.

Tip for experienced tailors: forget about codpieces and slopes.

Advice for newbies: make notches 0,3 cm long on the waist cut of the PP at the place of its (cut) intersection with the vertical of the bow.

Duplicate the fastener allowances (fig. 22) and iron them by folding them to the inside of the front halves (fig. 23). The allowance of the right PP is folded in half, and the allowance of the left one is all, up to the vertical of the bow.

Then, on the allowance of the right PP, sew a “zipper” braid with two lines ...

Sewing trousers with your own hands for beginner tailors is difficult even for such simple operations as processing side and step cuts.

It is worth noting that they need to be ground after the WTO and the processing of pockets on the PP and ZP.

Watch the video master class on the WTO (wet heat treatment) of trousers

As well as a video lesson on sewing a pocket cutting barrel

And a video tutorial on sewing frame pockets

A typical mistake is landing, in other words, a skew when sewing the PP and ZP trousers. A defect in the processing of side and step cuts can distort the ironing line, which in properly cut and well-tailored trousers should look at the toe of the shoe.

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The processing of the back pocket can be done in different ways. We will look at one of the simplest options: a frame.

We have already processed the tucks and completed the WTO RFP. We start the pocket with the preparation of parts. As mentioned above, we need two facings, a valance, burlap and an air loop so that the pocket fastens (see parts list here).

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This pocket is sometimes called the Hungarian pocket.

Used in various types of clothing.

The line of entry into the pocket for classic trousers should be straight, for jeans - concave.

In women's clothing, other contours of the pocket entry lines are allowed.

For children's trousers or products made of thin fabric, it is permissible to cut out burlap from the same fabric as the entire product. In this case, no oversight is needed.

In most cases, lining is needed only for PP.

The lining is trimmed after processing the warehouse, tucks and WTO (“step pull”, “knee tie”, “arrow”).

Wet heat treatment (hereinafter WTO) is performed after grinding the tucks and / or storage: their allowances are folded to the bow and seat and ironed.

Note for beginners.

Bow - the middle line of the PP trousers, along it is a fastener. Seat - the middle section of the trousers' belt at the level of the waist and buttocks.