Pattern "demi-overalls with a skirt-trousers"

PDF pattern for printing on a printer or plotter in full size on the sizes of overalls from 40 to 52.

Sizes: 40-52 (buyer gets ALL gradation sizes).

File format for download in order:

PDF in full size and without seam allowances.

After paying for the order, you will receive links to download two files patterns of semi-overalls gradation of sizes from 40 to 52:

1. PDF file A4, adapted for printing patterns on sheets of A4 paper in any program on any device, including mobile phones.
2. Multi-format PDF file for printing on sheets of any size from A0 to A4 on a printer or plotter using Adobe Reader.

Sewing difficulty level: medium, the pattern is not suitable for beginner couturiers. In the process, you will need the skills of trying on.

This style of dungarees suits most slim figures with good posture.

The set of semi-overalls patterns includes (Fig. 1):

bodice patterns - the back, the side of the shelf and three options for the middle part of the shelf, which will be discussed below;

skirt-pants patterns - PP with soft warehouses and RFP,

as well as a pocket burlap pattern for sewing a pocket in the side seam.

Fabric consumption, depending on the size, is 180 - 200 cm with a width of 140 cm. When calculating the consumption, Du = 65 cm and a double bodice were taken into account.

For sewing, dense, but thin dress and shirt fabrics, both cotton and silk, are suitable. For example, thin dress jeans, dress cotton satin, linen, chintz (including shirt), poplin cotton or silk, etc.

Stretch fabrics are not suitable.

How to buy a pattern

How to print a life size pattern at home on A4 sheets

How to choose a pattern size without taking measurements and using tables

Ready-made patterns for children in full size free download

Cut and sew semi-overalls with a trouser skirt with your own hands at home

Let's start with the fact that all jumpsuits, like detachable dresses, have their own specific fitting - the length of the bodice is measured strictly according to the figure, based on the length of the front and back. It would seem that difficult? You put on the bodice on the figure, gird it with a thin elastic band and mark the waist. Sometimes, in order to maintain visually favorable proportions, the waist has to be shifted up or down (“heavy top” - shift up, “heavy bottom” - shift down).

In overalls, such a corrective fitting is not difficult to do, but semi-overalls with bare shoulders and back can present a lot of surprises to the couturier. The proportions and balance of such a product is also adjusted with the help of the length of the straps, thus increasing the number of "variables" on the fitting.

Now more about the options for the middle part of the shelf.

The middle of the shelf with a deep "cut", more precisely with a low point of convergence of the shelves, as in the photo. In this case, the point of convergence of the shelves is located below the centers of the bulge of the chest.

Let me remind you that a semi-skid is the middle line of the shelf and torso, passing from the jugular cavity and through the navel. The point of convergence of the shelves in this case is the highest point of the semi-skid. Keep the half-skid marking until the sewing of the product is completed.

The middle of the shelf with a high "cut" - the point of convergence of the shelves is located above the centers of the bulge of the chest, higher than in the photo.

And the middle of the shelf with a middle seam has a very “modest” neckline. The middle seam, of course, can be omitted by laying the part with a half-slide on the fold of the fabric.

Next, we will choose a method for processing the bodice.

There are two convenient options here: double bodice and edging. By the way, you can also edging a double bodice.

In my opinion, in any case, it is better to make the bodice double. This will allow not only to refuse overcasting. If desired, cups and bones can be substituted into the double bodice. The upper cut of the bodice is easier to edging, passing the edging to the shoulder strap. The strap in this case will be from an oblique inlay.

The cutting is shown in fig. 2. The fabric is folded in half face to face, the edges are aligned and parallel to the edge of the cutting table.

Cut details are laid out in the most economical way, always observing the direction of the grain thread and seam allowances.

Let us consider in more detail the share direction (see the marks of the share thread on full-size patterns)

"Upper" bodice: the middle of the shelf - the share is parallel to the half-skid, the side - along the detail, the back - parallel to the waist.

The “lower” bodice (lining) is better to cut in a different share direction. In the middle part of the shelf, the share should be parallel to the edge of the side so that the side does not stretch, the barrel - we lay it arbitrarily along the oblique, the share of the back - parallel to the upper cut. Let me remind you that the lower bodice should be cut out according to the details of the cut of the upper bodice, and not according to patterns.

We cut the straps along the shared thread so that the strap does not stretch and the thread does not burst. Width in cutting 3 - 3,5 cm.

If you need a slanting inlay, then cut it out along the slanting thread. Width - for edging devices.

Skirt-trousers: PP - parallel to the middle line of the warehouses, ZP - along the part.

And about allowances, which, as you know, depend on the processing method.

For the bodice along the side cuts and cuts of the relief - 1 - 1,2 cm. The upper cuts and sides - without allowances (after tracing the patterns, if cut, keeping the line, there will be an allowance of 0,3 cm, it is enough). Please note that a large allowance should be added along the waist cut - 3 - 3,5 cm in order to carry out a high-quality fitting.

Skirt-trousers - allowances, as in trousers. Side, step, bow - 1 - 1,2 cm, seat seam expanding from 1 to 3 cm - for ease of fitting. Waist cut - without allowance, and along the bottom 2,5 - 3 cm, depending on the method of processing.

Now about how to sew.

We grind and iron the "upper" or "lower" bodice - for trying on, we need only one bodice. We fold the finished halves of the bodice, combining the half-skid and sweep over the overlay with oblique or cross stitches.

We overcast the sections of the PP and ZP of the trouser skirt, except for the waist and bottom. We grind the tucks of the RFP and notice the soft warehouses, like tucks. We sweep a large warehouse only from above and to the crosses. Carefully iron the top of the warehouse and tucks, iron the swept seams.

We put the side seams of the PP and ZP together - all 4 cuts and make notches for attaching pockets. The first notch - down from the waist 7 - 10 cm, the lower one - along the ledge of the burlap.

We grind the burlap, overcast and iron the stitching sections.

We grind, overcast and iron the side (along the cut of the burlap) and step sections, grind the seam of the bow and move the line to the seam of the seat, finishing the line before expanding the allowance, carefully ironing the bow.

In this form, the trouser skirt is ready for fitting. We will specify the volume by the seam of the seat, and there we have, as you remember, a large expanding allowance.

Next, we prepare any braid for temporary straps - and you can try on.

When trying on, it is important to determine the length of the bodice and the approximate length of the straps, as well as the need bones and cups. Of course, it is better to quilt the cups yourself, based on the shape of the breast and the need for a push-up.

Further, as they say, a matter of technology. We collect the lower bodice and, if bones and cups are needed, we attach them to the lower bodice.

We sweep both bodices with large oblique stitches, fasten the upper bodice and the lower one and edging. First, a cut of the side, then the top of the back and armholes, moving to the shoulder strap (the second cut is mirrored, that is, starting from the shoulder strap).

Of course, the bias trim must be cut from the same fabric as the dungaree or from a companion fabric with similar properties. It is highly undesirable to use satin trim, which is sold in sewing stores.

See video master class how to make bias tape at home

Video tutorial on sewing – how to use with non-adjustable binder

And a video on working with an adjustable binder

Connecting the bodice with a skirt-trousers will not be difficult if the waist is already outlined. Pay attention to which points must match when assembling.

The half-skid of the bodice must match the seam of the bow, the end of the back with a mark on the RFP of the trouser skirt. The edge of the side of the bodice with a deep "cut" should coincide with a small fold of PP, the edge of the side of the bodice with a high "cut" - with the side seam of the trouser skirt.

We iron the seam of the connection of the bodice and the skirt-trousers down and overcast - the edging will be too rough for this seam.

It remains to sew the zipper to the seam of the seat and process the bottom into a hem with a closed cut - bend it twice, iron it, lay a line.

It is better to fix the ends of the straps already when the finished jumpsuit is handed over.

Others women's jumpsuit patterns