Stocks, allowances, increments

In descriptions for models, the words “allowances” and “increases” are often found. "Stocks" go out of our lives along with pure wool fabrics.

A novice couturier should be aware that all drawings are made without seam allowances and these seam allowances should be added when cutting.

Allowances and increases in tailoring

In the vast majority of cases, the connecting seams (the seams that connect the details of the cut) have allowances of 1 - 1,2 cm. For example, the allowances for the side seams of a skirt or dress are 1 cm.

Increases are added to the measurements of half-girths - Cr, St and Sat - when constructing a drawing, so that the product fits the figure freely. That is why they are called "free fit allowances".

For example, if you see in the text "Pg \u4d 4 cm", this means that "the increase at chest level or to the half-girth of the chest is XNUMX cm."

Stock is added to the seam allowances on custom-tailored garments to expand the product if the customer gets better or the fabric shrinks.

These days, stocks are rarely added, as most fabrics today are non-shrink, and products by many people are worn for only one season.

Stock options to add to seam allowances

And yet, let's look at the most common options for stocking added to seam allowances, because they are still relevant for children's clothing and for people prone to weight fluctuations.

The most common is the margin for the seam of the seat of the trouser patch (see Trouser processing). As seen in fig. 1 seam expands from 1 cm to 3,5 or more. This allows not only to perform a high-quality fitting, but also significantly extend the life of the product.

Pay attention to the PP of the trousers: the protruding allowance here is 3,5 cm wide in this case, only the allowance for processing the fastener, and there is no stock here.

Not everyone knows that the stock can also be laid along the middle seam of the RFP of the skirt. But for the dress we store shelves at the side and shoulder seams. With the usual seam width of 1 cm, you can add a couple more centimeters just in case (Fig. 2).

Old books describe another type of stock - compensating for the fit of a seam with a sewing machine. They were 0,3 - 0,5 cm and were used to lengthen the darts and reliefs of the bodice (Fig. 3).

Clothing patterns for men

Overalls for men with a slanting clasp T-shirt patterns for men with a hood Patterns of men's trousers - thermal underwear Pattern of a men's sweatshirt with a raglan sleeve - military tactical sweatshirt Pattern of sports trousers for men Pattern of men's trousers "classic" Pattern "men's leather jacket-hoodie" Pattern "Wasserman's vest"

Patterns of women's coats

Fur coat classic semi-raglan A simple pattern of a women's coat with a one-piece sleeve Women's leather jacket Coat patterns - down jacket with a large collar and reliefs Pattern coat "one-piece" Pattern for full coats - jackets Pattern "coat-jacket" Pattern "cape with a Pavloposadsky hood"

Women's coats Fur coats Jackets Capes