Cutting and sewing technique

Almost all of my ready-made electronic patterns are multi-sized, that is, they are designed and made not for one size, but for a gradation or range of sizes in one PDF file.

As a rule, this is a pdf file of a product pattern for small and medium sizes from 42 to 52, and patterns in a file for large sizes from 52 to 64. Which is convenient for tailoring to a customer whose figure combines two sizes, and this is very common. often. After printing and assembling such a multi-sized pattern of mine, it is easy to correct it for such not quite standard figures according to the individual measurements taken.

Despite the multidimensionality of my finished patterns, nevertheless, some subscribers have a question about how to increase the pattern, for example, to 68 or to 70th size, or reduce it to 38. In the article, we will analyze this issue using the example of a dressing gown, shorts, trousers and collars.

I often hear the phrases “good pattern” and “it took a long time to fit the figure”, “like a glove” and “I still need to plant”.

Let's try to figure out which patterns always have a good fit, and which ones need to be adjusted, and how to adjust them to the individual characteristics of the figure.

Let's start with the fact that human figures are very diverse and, of course, products sit well on all figures without exception, in the design of which only parameters common to all figures are used.

You can print life-size patterns using the free Adobe Reader program.

This is a free program and can be downloaded from the Internet.

Upon launch, Adobe Reader prompts you to open files.

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This material reveals the secret of the so-called "frame" - the most common way to process pockets, stitching loops and slits for hands in products such as a poncho cape.

It is no secret that for beginner tailors, it is the processing of pockets that is the most difficult.

So if this is your first pocket (loop or slit), do it on a piece of fabric.

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The clasp "drop" can be processed in two ways:

1. edging
2. turning

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A drawing of any base (see. "Basics") involves a neckline, which in most cases is inconvenient and uninteresting.

You can change the style of the neck both on the fitting and on the pattern itself before trying on the product (video at the end of the article).

To do this, measure the desired neckline depth on the customer (see also "Removal of measurements").

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Quite often, the facings of the armhole or neckline do not fit entirely on the fabric.

You have to cut them out of small patches, which is a considerable difficulty even for experienced tailors.

Let's try to simplify this task as much as possible.

Another very simple way to process the neck with an oblique inlay (see. "How to make a bias tape").

This method differs from edging in a simpler approach and is applicable to fabrics of any thickness and texture.

Restriction - the shape of the neckline: cape with a clasp or a seam in the middle, "circle", "oval".

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The set-in bar is one of the simplest and most common types of fasteners.

It can be used not only on T-shirts, blouses, windbreakers and dresses, but also in skirts instead of the traditional vent.

Sometimes the slots of the sleeves are processed with a set-in bar.

For processing, you will need 2 parts of the strap, a shelf and a doubler, suitable for the fabric from which the product is sewn.

We start with markup.

The bar is marked with three verticals and one horizontal (Fig. 1).

Using the example of my ready-made patterns, let's figure out what a one-piece selection is and how to properly process when sewing such products.

Processing principle one-piece selection the same for products of the dress assortment (dresses, blouses, bathrobes) and for outerwear.

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