Using the example of my ready-made patterns, let's figure out what a one-piece selection is and how to properly process when sewing such products.
Processing principle one-piece selection the same for products of the dress assortment (dresses, blouses, bathrobes) and for outerwear.
Lesson content:
- Processing of a one-piece selection and its drawing.
- Pickup without straight lines.
- Ready-made patterns of clothes with one-piece sleeves.
That is, a one-piece selection is a continuation of the shelf away from the half-skid (picture 1).
In products with a set-in collar, with the so-called closed neck (stand-up collar, turn-down collar "under the neck") and without a collar with a cutout of any shape, the selection is bent along the line of the edge of the bead (in Fig. 1 this is a red dotted line) and ironed inside out products.
In the vast majority of cases, the selection is preliminarily duplicated.
The exception is very thin fabrics.
On shirts and blouses, a one-piece selection can only be in the bottom shelf. For men's shirts, this is the right side, for women's blouses, the left side.
As for outerwear, in which the shelf is also duplicated, the distance between the dubbing of the front and the dubbing of the selection should be 0,5 cm (Fig. 1 is an example of dubbing a flared coat with reliefs from the armhole).
The presence of this gap along the line of the edge of the bead will allow you to bend and iron the bead very accurately, and also protect the bead from deformation.
1. Processing of a one-piece selection and its drawing
Let us consider in more detail the design of the drawing of a one-piece selection (picture 2).
If you cut according to patterns in which the shelf ends with a half-skid figure 2 a ), then when cutting, you should add an allowance for the entry of the side (for half-sliding of another shelf).
The entry will be half the width of the fastener, namely:
1,5 - 2 cm for a blouse,
3 - 3,5 cm for a single-breasted robe,
3 - 4 cm for a single-breasted jacket or coat;
10 - 12 cm for a double-breasted product.
After adding the desired value, draw a vertical line parallel to the half-skid - this is the vertical edge of the side.
Then add an allowance for the one-piece hem.
As a rule, the width of a one-piece selection can vary from
board entry width + 2 cm
and up to
double entry width.
On the 2 drawing shows a selection for collars with a fastener to the top.
After you iron it, all excess on top can be cut off.
But, if there is no collar, then it is advisable to cut out the selection in such a way that it includes turning the neck of the shelf.
To avoid unnecessary waste of fabric, you have to cut out an additional stitch to the top of the selection.
The rules for cutting are the same as for regular facings.
Pay attention to the dubbing of this option (figure 2 a ): it is better not to duplicate the stitching seams, but at the end of the turning, make a notch equal to the width of the seam.
On the figure 2a the notch is marked with a scissors icon and a red cross.
One-Piece Waistcoat cut out according to the details of the cut of this vest (picture 3), that is, taking into account the same seam allowances that were added when cutting the shelves and back.
Combined selection (picture 4) - quite often found in products with an open neck, that is, with collars such as English and with a "shawl".
This method is not only more economical in cutting and easier to process, but gives greater wear resistance.
It can be used both in "dress" and in "top" products.
Differences: in products of the dress assortment, as well as in raincoats, the shelf is not duplicated, in jackets and coats it is duplicated.
In this case, a distance of 0,5 cm is required between the dubbing parts along the inflection lines of the lapel, the edge of the side and the bottom.
That is, dubbing is cut and glued at intervals of 0,5 cm.
Pay attention to the undercut of the edging (upper) part of the selection: it is cut out from the dubbing along the shelf adjusted after trying on.
Then dubbing is glued to the fabric and an allowance is added for attaching this fragment to the one-piece part of the selection.
Of course, the one-piece part was also cut out taking into account the allowance for stitching the upper (turning) part of the selection.
Processing begins with the connection of the upper (turned) and lower (one-piece) parts of the selection.
The seam is carefully ironed out, so don't forget to make a notch, which will help spread out the seam allowances after the pieces are sewn down.
On the 4 drawing the notch is marked with a scissors icon and a red cross.
Then the top part is turned.
2. Pickup without straight lines
Finally, let's look at curb without straight lines (picture 5) on the example of a classic men's jacket.
After the first fitting, it is cut out from dubbing along an already established shelf, then glued onto the fabric, taking into account the shared direction.
If additional touches are needed, dubbing is cut across to make a selection of several parts.
After gluing the fragments of the selection, allowances are added to the parts at the points of their connection.
In this case, one more rule should be observed: the stitching seam should be located below the inflection line of the lapel and be at least 2 cm above or below the loop.
The turning of the "English" selection has only one feature - the edge in the area of the intersection of the inflection of the lapel and the edge of the bead.
That is, by sweeping the edging in the lapel area, the product is placed with the front of the shelf towards the tailor, and the edging is released from the selection.
And in the area of the side - on the contrary: the product is picked up to the tailor, and the edging is released from the shelf (board).
Between the lapel and the side there is a segment of the edge (about 2 cm) - where the edge is not released, but a smooth transition is made between the lapel and the side.
3. Ready-made clothing patterns with a one-piece selection
3.1 Ready-made pattern of a fashionable dressing gown for sizes from 40 to 64
This model can be called a dressing gown or a dressing gown vest. This ready-made pattern was designed by me based on a semi-fitting sheath dress without bust darts for the small size group.
For larger sizes, the pattern of this dressing gown has a bust tuck coming out of the armhole. Waist darts can be ignored or only one tuck can be used. For example, for a figure with a large lumbar deflection, only the back waist tuck can be used.
Whereas figures with a sunken stomach can sew two darts of the shelf. The middle seam is recommended for all types of figures and can be changed at the fitting.
According to this finished pattern, you can sew a summer dressing gown or a long vest, both for summer and for the cold season.
Download the finished pattern 40 - 64 and read the full instructions for it...
Instructions and pattern drawings - free of charge. Ready-made pattern in PDF file for a fee 123 rubles (1,50 c.u.)
3.2 Ready-made pattern of a dressing gown - sundress for sizes 40-54
Pattern for the size of a summer sundress for women from 40 to 54.
File format: PDF, ready-made pattern in full size and without seam allowances. Sewing difficulty level is medium. Requires skills in cutting and sewing, and an understanding of the design of the product.
The bodice can be processed both with soft warehouses and with tucks.
One-piece selection can be duplicated with doubler or interlining, or simply ironed along the line of the edge of the bead.
The selection in this model performs the function of turning the neck and armholes.
When preparing the product for fitting, you must make the straps, but the armholes and the neck can be left unprocessed in order to be able to change them as you wish. We carefully fasten the straps to the shelf.
Download the finished pattern of a summer sundress
3.3 Ready-made dressing gown pattern for sizes 40 - 54
Pattern of a dressing gown on buttons cut off without a top in electronic form for sizes from 40 to 54. Sewing difficulty level: medium.
Detailed instructions for the pattern, how to cut, how to sew, how to try on.
Please note that the selection in this dressing gown is one-piece - this not only reduces processing time, but also improves sewing quality.
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