I often hear the phrases “good pattern” and “it took a long time to fit the figure”, “like a glove” and “I still need to plant”.
Let's try to figure out which patterns always have a good fit, and which ones need to be adjusted, and how to adjust them to the individual characteristics of the figure.
Let's start with the fact that human figures are very diverse and, of course, products sit well on all figures without exception, in the design of which only parameters common to all figures are used.
An example of such products is a men's shirt, a ladies' nightgown, loose blouses without darts. The “freedom” gains are large here, the silhouette is free.
Stretch products also give us the opportunity not to customize the figure, but also unfavorably fit its shortcomings.
To eliminate or minimize the fitting of a product cut according to finished patterns, the first thing to do is to correctly take (and record) all the necessary measurements for sewing the product. I draw attention to the word "correctly" and the phrase "all necessary". A very common mistake of beginners is not taking measurements correctly, and, as a result, all the other “jambs” of fit and fit.
At the end of the article, you can watch my short video about taking measurements.
Measure the printed and assembled pattern - look at 1 drawing. And first of all, check the length of the product and the length of the sleeve with the desired ones.
Measurements are taken in the same way as from the figure, but there are some differences.
- Firstly, the procedure for taking measurements from the shelf - before taking measurements of Npp, you should find the center of the bulge of the chest by measuring Vg and Rtsg.
NPP - the slope of the shoulder of the shelf. Vg - chest height. Rtsg - the distance between the centers of the bulges of the chest (record 1/2 of the value obtained). - Secondly, Shs - is removed at the level of the shoulder blades.
Ws - back width - the distance between the axillary angles. - And thirdly, calculate the width of the patterns of the back and shelves with the increase you need.
For beginners, I will give the calculation formulas.
Back width across bust and hips:
1/2 (Cr + Pg) minus 2 cm,
1/2 (Sat + Fri) minus 2 cm.
Shelf width across the bust and hips:
1/2 (Sg + Pg) plus 2 cm,
1/2 (Sat + Pb) plus 2 cm.
Sometimes it happens that the hips "do not fit" in size.
In this case, you can expand the template along the hips or choose a size based on the size of the hips and narrow the template along the chest (picture 2).
If you are a happy owner of a very thin waist, then you can add tucks or increase deflections (figures 3 и 4).
Let me remind you that we increase the deflections on the stretch (picture 3), and add tucks on fabrics that do not stretch (picture 4).
Another frequent "disagreement" with the patterns occurs in tall and petite ladies: the length of the bodice is shorter or longer than necessary.
To lengthen the bodice, cut the pattern at the waist and glue a strip of paper of the desired width between the skirt and bodice.
To make the bodice shorter, fold over the waistline (picture 5).
To calculate the width of the insert or warehouses, you should compare the measurements of Ds and Dpt - yours and those taken from the patterns.
And, as promised, at the end of the article there is a short video on taking measurements from the figure. Below the video are links to my other articles on working with patterns and patterns:
A complete article on taking measurements and deciphering their designations...
A useful article for beginners about the height adjustment of patterns ...
A series of articles on my site on the topic "Working with Patterns"...
This season most often buy my following patterns of men's and women's clothing:
Join my community on Viber...
