Cutting and sewing technique

This type of pocket looks good on vests made of fur with a short or medium length of pile. Fur vest pattern here:

In addition, the quilted pocket is used when sewing women's winter coats with a quilted lining.

As a pocket insulation, you can take both synthetic winterizer and batting.

For processing, you will need a rectangle of unquilted lining fabric measuring approximately 20 x 35 cm.

Vera Olkhovskaya

The confident return to fashion of the styles of the last century allows us to "quote" almost exactly the then popular styles of the bodice. AT

In this article, we turn to the ideas of the 50s in the style of "new look".

Let's start by recalling the drawing of the adjacent transforming bodice known to us from childhood from old books (Fig. 1).

As a basis, an adjacent bodice with a chest tuck was proposed, while the lines of both darts (breast and waist) were drawn in straight segments (Fig. 1a).

Vera Olkhovskaya

This question, sooner or later, always arises before a novice couturier and immediately gives rise to many small questions.

Maybe it's a bad (inaccurate) pattern? Maybe the figure is non-standard? What is the best way to do this? Will I damage the product? Maybe better not? How to make armholes symmetrical? And so on…

But it is impossible to bypass the trimming of the armhole, and this operation is important not only when sewing, but also in altering clothes.
People often ask how to alter a blouse or dress if the shoulders are hanging? how to make a big one small? how to alter a coat that is tight under the arms?...

There is only one answer to all these questions: cut the armhole to fit.

In this article, we will consider how to perform modeling of different styles of sleeve models of such a cut:

1. Classic flashlight sleeve.
2. Flare sleeves of different lengths.
3. Pattern of a flashlight sleeve with a mesh or nylon podkatnik.

We will also consider several ready-made electronic full-size patterns for dresses and blouses with such sleeves and a set of ready-made patterns for sleeves of this and other cuts for women's clothing.

Vera Olkhovskaya

Modeling, which is based on cutting patterns into parts, can solve several problems.

1) Artistic tasks - this item does not require explanation, see an example in photo 1.

2) Simplification of sewing technology, for example, through the combination of parts.

My favorite example is classic jeans: the PP tuck is aligned with the pocket entry line, and the two ZP tucks are “closed” with a yoke.

Thus, the tailoring technology is reduced.

3) Saving fabric and/or other consumables.

Again, you have to cite jeans as an example: due to the cut line of the coquette, the consumption of fabric per unit has decreased by about 5 cm.

4) Bringing the tailoring technology in line with the characteristics of the fabric.

On the example of a simple dress (picture 1) we will analyze the main rules of modeling.

For the basic basis for modeling, I took a school dress for a girl.
Before reading this article, download this dress base for free from the link below:

View and download the free base pattern for this dress here...

Vera Olkhovskaya

The fastener on the side of the kosovorotka, according to academician Likhachev, was created specifically so that the pectoral cross would not fall out during work.

They made the fastener more often on the left, less often on the right. If the fastener was processed with a strap, the top wasand embroidered right strap.

On the basis of the kosovorotka, tunics were sewn (see photo) during the time of Tsarist Russia and for the Bolshevik cavalry army.

In this article, it is proposed to process the fastener of the blouse with a set-in placket on the left side, the right placket on top.

Patterns kosovorotkas / embroidered shirts / gymnasts 42 - 52, 52 - 62

It should be noted that the processing of the neck of the kosovorotka (Fig. 1) takes place in two stages: the processing of the fastener and the stitching of the collar.

Each portNoah knows which two seams should have special strength. This is the seam of the armhole and the seam of the seat (see articles on armhole processing and tailoring trousers).

Traditionally, these seams are recommended to be sewn with two straight lines at a distance of 1 mm, stretching the fabric.

This is a good way that has stood the test of time.

This method of processing the neck is suitable for products with embroidery on the shelf and with an insert from an embroidered border (Fig. 1).

A complete description of cutting, sewing a men's shirt like "vyshyvanka",
and also see patterns from 42nd to 52nd and from 52nd to 62nd size.

So, if you are using a ready-made embroidered border, then sewing a shirt should begin by joining the border and the shelf into one whole.

This is one of the most common stitches made with a universal machine, that is, with a straight stitch.

The stitching is done in two steps.

The parts are folded face to face, but the cut sections are not combined, but are arranged in parallel at a distance of 0,5 - 0,7 cm (Fig. 1).