Sewing a biker jacket is not particularly difficult (see also "Pattern of a leather jacket" and "How to cut a leather jacket").
First, we collect the “top” of the product (Fig. 1) - we grind and iron the seams.
If the material cannot be ironed (genuine leather, leather substitutes, suede, velor), lay out the allowances of each seam and glue them adhesive tape for leather.
Do not forget that the "lightning" is sewn immediately into the right relief of the shelf. In this case, the lower end of the "lightning" should not go into the bottom allowance.
Please note: the allowances on the bottom of the parts are different: on the bottom of the "middle part of the shelf" just 0,5 - 0,7 cm is enough.
The product can be tried on or put on a mannequin to mark the position of pockets, belts and straps, if any.
After making pockets and other decorative details, we assemble the collar (Fig. 2): we grind and iron the middle seam of the lower collar, turn the collar and iron it. No need to delay.
We assemble the lining (Fig. 3): we process a pocket on the part of the shelf. The easiest way to make it overhead to fit your passport.
It is desirable that the edge of the pocket falls into the seam of the barrel-shelf.
Pay attention to how to grind the middle seam of the back. On fig. 3, the stitching seam is shown with a red dotted line.
The selection, cut along the "middle part of the shelf", is desirable to duplicate. And then stitch to the already assembled lining.
The assembly of the sleeves is not difficult. We duplicate the allowance of the "top" of the sleeves along the bottom and iron it up (Fig. 4).
We grind the "top" of the sleeves and iron the seams. We grind the lining, iron the seams. We grind the "top" and the lining of the sleeve along the lower cut.
We notice the bottom of the "top" and fix it with adhesive tape or hidden stitches. Sleeve ready!
Now the most interesting thing is to connect the “top” of the jacket and the “lining”.
We start by stitching the collar. Attention! Only the bottom collar needs to be tucked in. Then, after checking the correct stitching, stitch the lower collar.
Women's coats Fur coats Jackets Capes
Sewing zippers in leather jackets
The next step is attaching the "lightning" to the left side. "Lightning" should not go beyond the bottom line for the allowance.
After stitching, be sure to check the correctness of the operation by fastening the zipper and only after that, proceed to turning the sides.
The connection of the side and the selection is a “delicate matter” and requires skills. But turning the bead in a leather jacket is much easier than in a classic jacket. Pick-up landing (very slight) is performed in the lapel area.
After turning the sides, make sure that the operation is carried out correctly and that the symmetrical details of the jacket are congruent. At this stage, the sides are ironed, but not detached.
A loop is attached to the “lining” so that the jacket can be hung up and the upper collar is tucked into the “lining”. The correctness of the stitching is checked and the upper collar is sewn in.
The stitching seams of the upper and lower collars are ironed out (or unfolded and glued. The collar is stitched along the stitching seam so that the upper and lower collars are connected.
The correctness of this operation is checked on a mannequin or figure.
If the collar is stitched correctly, then there should be two allowances below the basting line - the “top” of the jacket and the “lining”.
On these allowances, a machine or hand stitch is laid with locking stitches.
The purpose of this line is to secure the collar, so it must be laid as close as possible to the stitching lines of the upper and lower collars.
If the jacket has shoulder straps, it's time to sew them on.
After that, you can sweep the bottom of the “top” of the jacket, then the bottom of the “lining”. Check the correctness of the weaving on the mannequin or figure and stitch the “top” with the “load”, glue or hem the bottom allowance.
Now the most important operation: fitting. We put the product on the customer, who should be in the clothes on which he is going to wear a jacket (turtleneck, sweater, two sweaters ...) we put shoulder pads.
We check the fit and, if necessary, cut the armhole. Then, we attach the sleeves and outline three points (on the sleeve and on the jacket), along which we will join the sleeves with the armhole.
The first point is the top of the eye, the second is the front roll and the corresponding point on the shelf, the third point is the elbow roll and the corresponding point on the back.
Thereafter sleeves are rolled up (see also Master class on sewing online: how to sweep a sleeve) and the jacket can be tried on again or put on a mannequin, having previously placed a shoulder pad.
After that, the armhole is processed and “closed” manually or by machine.
If the sewing-in seam of the sleeve is detached, then the sleeve should be folded and sewn in, as well as trying on, before joining with the “lining”. The "lining", in this case, is processed along with the sleeves.
We complete the processing by stitching the collar of the side and the bottom of the jacket with finishing stitches. We install accessories.
Clothing patterns for men
Patterns of women's jackets, fur coats, sheepskin coats and coats
|
||||||||||||
Join my community on Viber...
