Everyone and everyone needs comfortable trousers or shorts made of elastic stretch fabric without "arrows" and fasteners, trousers in which you can play sports or care for plants, walk or just lie in front of the TV.
Consider how to cut and sew such "sports" trousers according to the pattern of classic men's trousers (if we sew for a man) and according to the pattern of "carrot" trousers (if we sew for a woman). ..
By the way, structurally, men's (Fig. 1) and women's trousers differ not only in the difference in values between the waist and hips, but also in the height of the seat, the position of the step angle of the RFP and the tuck or folds on the PP.
Patterns of men's and women's trousers for the lesson
|
Pattern of men's classic trousers
We will use this pattern as the basis for the cut of trousers or shorts of the sports style we need for a man. |
Pattern of women's trousers carrots
We use this pattern as the basis for women's sports trousers or shorts. |
And if the layout of the “classic” trousers is “jack” (Fig. 2) with strict observance of the shared direction of the PP, then for “sports” trousers and shorts these rules do not matter.
См. также video master class on cutting technique "How to cut trousers on fabric without a pattern: PP"
И video master class "How to cut trousers on fabric without a pattern: ZP"
And also video lesson for beginners "How to cut trousers: details of pockets and a belt"
So, if you have already watched the video, let's get back to cutting sports stretch trousers.
We cut stretch sweatpants
We lay out patterns of the desired size on the fabric folded in half and combine them along the side seams (Fig. 3).
Large trousers, of course, will not fit into the standard cut width of 140 cm, so we cut off the fragment that was outside the fabric and put it in another convenient place.
The allowances in this case are also noteworthy: add 4-8 cm to the belt at the waist if we pull one or more narrow elastic bands in the “grandmother's way” with a pin; on the bottom too - the allowance depends on the number of elastic bands or on the desired hem width; the remaining allowances are 0,5 - 1 cm. If the processing of the belt is different, we do not add an allowance for the waist.
Pay attention to the fact that the detail of the fragment of the RFP that did not fit - the wedge-dotachka - must be cut out with a double allowance at the junction with the RFP.
How to sew similar trousers or shorts with elastic bands, see. sewing video tutorial. But this video shows cotton shorts. And for sewing the cuts of the step and the bow-seat in a knitted product, you must use a “knitted” overlock stitch.
See pictures of knitted and other seams, which are used for sewing products from stretch, can also be found on the website of Vera Olkhovskaya.
No less interesting will be the option of cutting without step seams (Fig. 4).
That is, in the case when the PP and ZP are combined at the seams of the step.
In this case, overlap is allowed.
This cut is most suitable for trousers with pockets in the side seams and for trousers made of thick loose knit fabric such as footer or fleece.
The belt can also be processed with a “grandmother's elastic band”, see the video at the link above, or sew a wide elastic band instead of a belt.
Girls can use an elastic band with lurex or a bright decorative pattern, for men, of course, “male” patterns and strict stripes along the length are suitable.
It is undesirable to pull a wide (from 2 cm) elastic band into the drawstring of the belt, since it will collapse in the sock and twist inside.
How to sew trousers, shorts and skirts with a wide elastic band instead of a belt see the video master class.
Burlap for pockets, if the trousers are made of thick and / or loose fabric, it is better to cut out from thin knitwear or a special “pocket”, which can also be purchased at fabric stores.
Burlap sizes for adults are from 15 by 20 to 17 by 22 cm. We focus on the size of the customer's palm.
And at the end of the article, about one-piece sacking (Fig. 5).
They have two significant drawbacks:
do not go through the width of the fabric or double the consumption of trousers;
not very comfortable to wear.
Therefore, we leave this simple method for children's trousers and shorts, which will pass in one width.
Yes, you can download a pattern of children's shorts for free, without registration and subscription.
In addition to it, there is free pattern of men's underpants 48 - 60 sizes,
и free pattern of children's trousers.
Patterns of men's clothing
Patterns of women's trousers and shorts, overalls and skirts
|
||||||||||||
Join my community on Viber...
