This is one of the most common stitches made with a universal machine, that is, with a straight stitch.
The stitching is done in two steps.
The parts are folded face to face, but the cut sections are not combined, but are arranged in parallel at a distance of 0,5 - 0,7 cm (Fig. 1).
The protruding allowance goes around the smaller allowance and a connecting line is laid on top (Fig. 2).
Then, the parts are unfolded, the protruding allowance goes around the smaller allowance again and another reinforcing line is laid on top (Fig. 3).
It should be noted that the second line in some cases can be done with finishing threads.
Ideally, the allowances of the parts connected by the linen seam should be different, that is, one allowance is twice as large as the other.
For example: the allowance of one part is 0,5 cm, the other is 1 cm; or 0,75 and 1,5 cm.
But in fact, the products sewn with a linen seam, for the most part, either come with very large allowances for a free fit, so a loss of 0,5 - 0,7 cm does not play a role.
An example of such products is men's shorts or underpants with a Pb of 6 - 8 cm (free pattern "Men's underpants")
and shirts with Pg 10 cm (vyshyvanka patterns for men),
But sometimes the allowance calculation is important. For example, when sewing skinny jeans.
In this case, the backstitch is sewn with special equipment, both chainstitch lines and have a dual purpose: to firmly connect and decorate the seam.
At home, a linen seam can be performed using a special foot (Fig. 4).
Men's jeans and classic trousers in clothing patterns for men
Women's trousers, overalls, shorts and skirts in patterns
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