Vera Olkhovskaya
The confident return to fashion of the styles of the last century allows us to "quote" almost exactly the then popular styles of the bodice. AT
In this article, we turn to the ideas of the 50s in the style of "new look".
Let's start by recalling the drawing of the adjacent transforming bodice known to us from childhood from old books (Fig. 1).
As a basis, an adjacent bodice with a chest tuck was proposed, while the lines of both darts (breast and waist) were drawn in straight segments (Fig. 1a).
The pattern was made of cardboard, medical oilcloth or wallpaper.
On the base, an incision was made from the side cut to the top of the waist tuck and from the top of the waist tuck to the top of the chest.
The cut off fragment of the shelf was connected to the second fragment with a thick thread (Fig. 1b).
This template was used in cutting many times.
It was used to cut bodices with a different set of darts (breast + waist, side + waist and chest + side). Sometimes, with one tuck or with a vertical relief.
In addition, the bodice could have been cut in a different way (Fig. 1c).
Note: Do not get carried away with cut designs published in old books.
They take into account the features of natural fabrics, which have almost completely disappeared from the assortment of fabric stores.
The silhouette forms have changed, for example, now fashion designers are offering a more “rigid shoulder line”.
New adhesive materials have appeared, foam shoulder pads, new sewing techniques, etc. If you are going to quote old styles, then only on new designs.
Tepe
Let's look at some old ideas that can be used today.
Idea number 1: close the chest tuck (Fig. 2 a, b). Without further modifications, an adjacent short vest can be cut.
True, products with one waist tuck (even if a tuck for the chest has been moved into it) fit well only on a small chest and a fragile figure.
Patterns of fashionable dresses, blouses and corsets
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In some fabrics, it is difficult to process the tip of such a tuck due to the large solution.
If we continue to develop the idea of transferring the chest tuck (Fig. 2 c, d), this design can be used to easily unmodel a yoke of any shape (Fig. 2 c) and move the tuck up again (Fig. 2 d) for easy gathering or pleating along the line shelf cut.
As a variant of a similar development for closing the chest tuck, a fragment of the shelf can be cut off (Fig. 3a).
It is important to remember that all lines must be smooth (Fig. 3 b).
This option is suitable for a slimming dress, especially in a checkered or striped fabric with a fastener to the top or an open neck.
In the second case, the sides are processed end-to-end and it is very convenient if they are one-piece.
Collar type
and racks or any suitable for an open neck.
Variations of the skirt can be varied: from a pencil to the "sun".
A skirt with wedges is also well suited, while the middle wedge can be cut out in one piece with a cut off fragment of the bodice, and the side ones are better cut off at the waist.
The middle lower fragment can be made from a companion fabric.
For mass tailoring, the fit of this model, of course, is made smaller and a belt is added to the semi-relief, which is tied at the back.
Idea No. 2: Undercuts from a half-skid and transfer of tucks into these undercuts (Fig. 4, 5).
The development of the idea can be completed by transferring the darts to the undercut (Fig. 4 a, b; Fig. 5 a, b).
Such solutions are good for checkered and striped fabrics and are suitable for ladies of any complexion.
Of course, the foundation in any case should be made taking into account ALL features of the physique.
These bodices are well suited for both jumpsuits and dresses with straight or flared skirts.
But further development (Fig. 4c, 5c) is suitable only for thin fabrics and is preferred for slender figures.
They will look great both in dresses with puffed sleeves and in combidresses.
Particular attention should be paid to the model shown in Fig. 4 in - such a bodice does NOT imply an overlap.
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