Pattern dress cutting "winter sun"

An electronic pattern of a cut-off dress "winter sun" for printing in full size on sizes from 40 to 52 in one PDF file. Printing can be done on a home printer or on a large format plotter. Standard paper sheets from A4 to A0. Paperless cutting through the projector is possible.

In the photo, look at the version of the sewn dress according to this pattern from the customer Olivia Freimuth:

"Vera, thank you so much for the patterns, they are simple and very accurate, the dress turned out super!! Such beauty conquered everyone! The dress was sewn for my daughter. The fabric is royal satin, dense, it falls beautifully. The bottom is processed with soft regiline, I did not find the color Unfortunately, I had to sew on black.

Buy and download this dress pattern

How to sew a dress according to this pattern

Sizes: 40 - 52 (the buyer receives all the gradation of sizes in one file)

File format for download in order:

PDF in full size and without seam allowances.

After paying for the order, you will receive links to download two files dress patterns gradation sizes from 40 to 52:

1. PDF file A4, adapted for printing patterns on sheets of A4 paper in any program on any device, including mobile phones.
2. Multi-format PDF file for printing on sheets of any size from A0 to A4 on a printer or plotter using Adobe Reader.

Sewing difficulty level: medium - this pattern is not suitable for beginners.

Included in the set of patterns detachable dress "winter sun" are included (picture 1):

back patterns, which can be cut with or without a cut to the waist;

shelf pattern;

pattern PP (front half) of a double sun skirt, which can also be used to cut a regular sun skirt with a length difference;

pattern ZP (back half) of a double sun skirt, which can also be used to cut a regular sun skirt with a difference in length.

This style of dress is suitable for slender figures of any height, as well as for figures that combine two sizes.

The consumption of fabric for a dress of maximum length is 5,8 meters with a width of 1,4 m. To accurately calculate the consumption, it is necessary to determine the length of the skirt and perform a preliminary layout. There are 11 length options for the cutter to choose from.

Only stable fabrics should be used for sewing: silk, viscose, jacquard, stable lace, organza. Some cutters, when sewing such styles, prefer curtain fabrics, for example, curtain organza.

How to choose a pattern size without taking measurements and using size charts - watch video tutorials

How to buy a pattern

How to print a pattern at home in full size on A4 sheets

How to assemble a pattern, consisting of several large sheets, watch the video master class

Ready-made patterns for children in full size free download

Cutting and sewing a detachable dress "winter sun"

I’ll start by explaining how to process the neck and armholes, since the choice of processing method will depend on what small details we need (picture 2). The presence or absence of small details is important to consider from the very beginning, so that when laying out, you know where to place them.

If you decide to process the neckline and armholes with facings, then they should be cut out according to the same patterns as the front and back from dublerin and without seam allowances. We will add seam allowances after we glue them on the fabric.

But this is still a long way off.

Pay attention to the back with a cutout - the tuck at the waist should not be closed, and the facing is also cut out according to the pattern of the back and without seam allowances.

Now about allowances and equity threads, the direction of which should be strictly observed when cutting (picture 3).

On the shoulder and side sections of the bodice, add 1 - 1,5 cm; we cut out the sprout (neck of the back), neck and armholes without seam allowances, and add 3,5-4 cm along the waist cut to clarify the length of the bodice when trying on.

The back with a cutout should be cut out by attaching a dubbing facing to the cutout line. We will cut the shelf in a turn - this is for convenience and economy. If you don't have enough sewing experience, make a shelf double pattern and glue it to the shelf end-to-end, as shown in 3 drawing.

The lobar thread of the shelf should pass strictly along the half-slide (the middle line of the shelf), and the lobar back - strictly perpendicular to the cut of the waist.

Opening the cut-off dress "winter sun" is best done in a turn (picture 4).

There are several subtleties in cutting the skirt for this dress.

Firstly, the length of the skirt should be chosen before cutting, based on the length of the maxi along the middle seam of the RF (back) and the length of the mini along the half-skid of the PP (shelves).

Secondly, the notch should be chosen after trying on, focusing not only on the length of the lower cut of the bodice, but also on your desire to slightly gather the skirt or, conversely, not to assemble its waist cut.

The subtlety lies in the fact that by choosing a longer recess, you will reduce the length of the skirt.

Therefore, when making skirt patterns, we cut them out according to the minimum notch and the maximum length. First, we only trace the patterns of the skirt, the maximum length and do not cut it out. Then, lay out and cut out the shelf and back.

The cut bodice is "going" for fitting. Darts are grinded and ironed, cuts are overcast and grinded, lightning is swept. The zipper in this model is in the middle seam of the back, if the dress is without a back cutout. It is also possible to have a zipper in the side seam if there is a cutout or if you want to make a drop closure.

At the fitting, the bodice is tied up with a linen elastic to clearly define the waist line and mark it on the bodice. Depending on the features of the figure, the real waistline may be lower or higher than the waistline that was on the pattern, and the distance from the real waist to the lower cut of the bodice may not be the same.

Please note that we do not yet cut off what remains under the intended line from the bodice, we simply draw it out smoothly and symmetrically, we lay a manual lining line or a machine basting line along it.

Having outlined the waist line on the bodice in this way and measured the length of this line, we proceed to the choice of the size of the notch of the skirt and its cutting.

The length of the recess, as mentioned above, is selected according to the length of the waist section of the bodice. The length of the notch in this case is 1/4 of the length of the waist section, since we have a “double sun” skirt. For a "sun" skirt, the length of the notch will be, respectively, 1/2 the length of the waist section.

And again, a nuance: the length of the waist cut of the bodice should be 5-7 cm shorter than the sum of the lengths of the notches on the details of the skirt. In other words, the cut of the skirt must be necessarily longer so that the skirt can be planted - connected with the fit. Of course, you can choose the option not with a fit, but with an assembly - assemble along the waist section of the skirt.

So, we chose the notch you need, measured the length of the skirt you chose again and cut out the final pattern!

Layout on 4 drawing You have already considered. I will proceed to explain the nuances of cutting, the most important of which is the need to avoid the coincidence of the side and middle cuts with the shared thread. If these sections coincide with the share, they will gradually become shorter than the sections of the skirt adjacent to them and will tighten the bottom.

This is very ugly and explains one of the reasons why the length of the waist cut of the skirt should be longer: we need bevels.

The detail of the “double sun” PP in its maximum length barely passes through the width of the fabric and its side seam is a cut that coincides with the shared thread. To bevel it, cut 1,5 - 2 cm from each side, as shown in 3 drawing.

The parts of the 'double sun' ZP are stacked mirror (check this several times) AND with about 3 cm indent from the edges. This will give us the opportunity to add 1 cm to the seam and make a bevel.

After marking all the details of the “double sun” skirt, once again check the sum of the lengths of the recesses and the length of the waist cut of the bodice.

Now you can cut out the skirt.

If you cut the "sun" skirt, then do the same with the bevels.

So, the fitting of the bodice is done. We assemble the skirt - grind the seams, overcast them and iron them.

On the remnants of the fabric we glue the dubbing parts of the facings or cut the oblique inlay.

We process the armholes, the neck, we sweep the bodice (we don’t cut the bottom of the bodice yet) with the skirt, we tack on the zipper and try it on again.

Only after the second fitting, you can cut off the excess allowance along the waist cut of the bodice, sew on the zipper and process the bottom of the skirt.

The most important point is the processing of the bottom of the skirt.

You will need soft regilin

The easiest way to process the bottom is to sew soft reguilin from the inside, aligning its edge with the bottom cut so that the entire reguiline tape is on the inside of the skirt. Edge the open cut together with the regiline.

Of course, regilin should be chosen in the color of the fabric.

See sewing master class how to edge a cut with a fixture in the video tutorial "How to replace an overlock".