Pattern "dresses cut-off sun bodice with a smell"

Dress detachable sun bodice with a smell - a description of the pattern and dress

Read this pattern instructions:

1. Description of a set of patterns for a dress.
2. How to download and print patterns.
3. How to cut this dress.
4. How to sew this dress with your own hands.

Download this dress pattern with a sun skirt

Description of the pattern set

Electronic pattern "dress cut sun bodice with a smell" 40-64.

Sizes: 40-52 and 52-64 (the buyer receives all sizes of the selected gradation).

File format for download in order:

PDF in full size and without seam allowances.

After paying for the order, you will receive links to download two files patterns of a dress of the gradation of the sizes chosen by you:

1. PDF file A4, adapted for printing patterns on sheets of A4 paper in any program on any device, including mobile phones.
2. Multi-format PDF file for printing on sheets of any size from A0 to A4 on a printer or plotter using Adobe Reader.

Sewing difficulty level: medium.

This style of a detachable dress with a sun skirt and a halter bodice and a shawl collar suits most figures of different fullness and height, but for full figures the fabric should be thin enough and easily draped.

The set of patterns for this dress includes (picture 1):

1. back patterns;
2. shelves;
3. narrow sleeve;
4. collar;
5. belts;
6. sun skirts;
7. burlap for a simple pocket in the side seam.

The facing of the sprout and the pick are cut out according to the patterns of the shelf and back (picture 2) and are therefore not included.

The approximate consumption of fabric for a cut-off dress with a sun skirt and a bodice will be from 4,3 to 5 m of fabric with a width of 140 cm. In the calculation, Du = 80 cm.

Stable dress fabrics of the woolen range, jacquard, dense silk or viscose, linen, dress chintz, poplin, dress cotton satin and thin denim are suitable for sewing dresses. From knitted fabrics, you should choose dense, but not too heavy and thick fabrics with minimal stretch.

How to download and print a pattern with your own hands

How to buy a pattern

How to print a life size pattern at home on A4 sheets

How to choose a pattern size without taking measurements and use of tables

Finished patterns in full size Free

Download this dress pattern

How to cut a cut-off dress with a sun skirt, a wrap bodice and a shawl collar with your own hands

This set of patterns provides several variations in the execution of the style. For example, a dress can be made like a bathrobe - with sides to the bottom, with side seams in the "sun" and without them.

Consider the main features of cutting and sewing this style.

The main difficulty is the sides and collar.

The easiest way to cut out the pick is to fold the front and back along the shoulder seam and circle the sprout, neck and side (picture 2).

It is advisable to cut the selection immediately from the dublerin, bypassing the “stage” of the paper part, thereby saving time and increasing the accuracy of the cut.

The optimal width of the selection is 3,5 - 4 cm in the sprout area and 7 - 8 cm in the bead area. Please note that the length of the pick-up part should be 4-5 cm longer than the bodice.

Why does the brace need to be longer? The answer lies in the field of fitting technology, for the qualitative implementation of which it is necessary to add an appropriate allowance to the bodice of the shelf along the cut of the waist. This allowance of 3,5 - 4 cm will allow us to clearly outline the waist line directly on the figure of the customer.

The rest of the seam allowances are normal. We add 1-1,5 cm to the middle seam of the back, side and shoulder sections. We do not add allowances along the armholes of the sprout and the neck, otherwise these sections will become shorter. For selection, 0,3 - 0,5 cm will be enough.

Pay attention to the fact that we will add only one allowance to the part of the selection cut from the doubler - along the middle seam.

Another difficulty is the need to cut the dress on the fabric in a spread.

It is important here not to turn over the details and cut out paired ones in the same share direction (picture 3). To avoid mistakes, it is better to cut out the second paired parts according to the cut out parts of the cut, and not according to the patterns.

That is, first we cut out one half of the “sun”, one sleeve, one back, one collar, one shelf with a selection according to the patterns. Our fabric is spread inside out, we turn the cut parts upside down and lay them inside out on the fabric in the shared direction in which they are cut. Allowances are already there, so there will be no difficulties.

Let's dwell on a few more points that need clarification.

A one-piece selection for a "sun" skirt is needed if you cut a dressing gown with sides to the bottom. The processing of such a selection is reduced to overcasting the edge and ironing. Duplication is not needed here.

The bevel of the middle seam for the “sun” skirt is added arbitrarily, but if we already have a lunge due to a one-piece selection, it is better to make the bevel as possible as possible. Without a bevel, the middle seam of the skirt will be tightly tightened, while the slack along the bias thread will inevitably increase during wear.

If you want to make the sides only on the bodice, then use the pattern of the half of the "sun" without the "board and border" rectangle. In this case, the side lines will be a semi-skid and the middle line of the rear panel. Bevels along the side seams are still desirable, at least small ones.

Do I need a one-piece pick for a shelf? It is optional, but such a selection significantly improves the quality of processing and saves time. What is not unimportant, the one-piece selection is much thinner than the turned one. Of the disadvantages - it can increase tissue consumption.

Separately, it should be said about the rebound in the rebounds. In this case, if you want to make an additional stitch, then do it in the area of ​​\uXNUMXb\uXNUMXbthe sprout (the neck of the shelf). In this case, it is desirable that it does not coincide with the shoulder seam. It is very simple to make an additional stitch if the selection is pre-cut from the dubbing - we cut the dubbing in the right place and add seam allowances along the cut when we glue and cut out the fragments.

How to cut a dress sleeve - oblique or lobed?

On the pattern of the sleeve, two possible directions of the share thread are marked. It is better to cut a narrow sleeve made of stable fabrics along an oblique thread, in this case, it will definitely not hamper movements. For knitwear, even with very little extensibility, it is better to place the lobar along the sleeve.

The share thread in the lower and upper shawl collars should preferably not coincide. For the upper collar, in most cases, the share runs along the middle seam or line, for the lower collar - the middle seam along the oblique.

We add seam allowances for the collar only along the flying part and along the middle seam - 1 - 1,2 cm. There is one more subtlety. To simplify turning the collar, the allowance for the turning seam of the upper collar should be 0,2 - 0,3 cm more (depending on the looseness of the fabric), then when the control points are combined, the fit will be very simple. The collar stitching allowance is not added.

How to choose the right notch for a sun skirt?

The easiest way to compare the cut length of the waist of the finished bodice with the length of the notch. And so we come to the million dollar question of cutting sequence.

Theoretically, the cutting sequence should be as follows: we cut out the details of the bodice, perform a fitting, and only after that we proceed to cutting the skirt. In this case, we can very accurately select the length of the notch for the skirt and take into account other possible nuances. But, based on the need to save fabric, we cut all the details at the same time.

Therefore, we simply select the notch according to the size number and, after fitting and final processing of the bodice, we increase it or fit it as necessary. Most fabrics have a lot of stretch along the cut of the notch, so you will most likely encounter the need to adjust the skirt.

It is also important to know that the side line of the skirt should not coincide with the side seam of the bodice and the notch allowance is not added.

Pockets in the side seams of the skirt have now become very popular in mass-produced clothing, but in practice such pockets are rather inconvenient, since the side seams of the products of the adjacent and semi-adjacent silhouette are structurally shifted back.

Convenient pockets should move forward from the side seam by 3-5 cm (picture 4). Therefore, if you need comfortable pockets, it is better to shift the seam of the skirt. In addition, the offset seam will turn out along the oblique thread, which will not spoil the appearance of the skirt.

When cutting the skirt panel under the pocket, do not forget to add another 2 cm to the middle seam along the notch cut, or the notch will have to be slightly increased when connecting the skirt to the bodice.

And another option for experienced couturiers is a tuck pocket.

The seam under the pocket can be replaced with a long tuck.

The processing of the pocket in the tuck is considered on the example of a dress with a skirt "Tatyanka"

How to sew this dress according to the finished pattern with your own hands

Ideally, this dress should be tried on twice.

For the first fitting, we collect only the bodice. It is highly desirable that all seams are carefully ironed. You can also tuck in the bottom collar.

Trying on the bodice, remember that the half-skid lines on the right and left shelves should match on the figure. In addition to fit, balance and armhole outlines, the fitting should clearly outline the waistline. To do this, it is convenient to use an ordinary linen elastic band - having belted the figure, outline the waist line, without trying to ensure that the elastic band is everywhere at the same distance from the waist section.

After fitting, the sleeves, collar and sides are processed. Then the sleeves and collar are rolled in. On the sleeves, only the bottom remains unprocessed, and the collar is at the stage when the edging is swept and ironed, that is, it is almost ready, the sides are also at the stage of notching. We do not take notes.

Skirt processing - middle seam and sides. If pockets are provided, then pockets are processed in the way you have chosen.

By connecting the bodice and skirt (sweeping, stitching, ironing the seam and overcasting), you can carry out a second fitting.

On the second fitting, you should align the bottom of the skirt, as well as clarify the fit of the sleeve and collar. After that, the product can be finished and ironed.