Basics: basic patterns

In this article, we will consider the pattern of the "kimono" base without a chest tuck and how the pattern of a fashionable sweatshirt (sweatshirt) or an oversized pattern of a beautiful and comfortable dress for sizes from 42 to 54 is modeled on this basis.

You can see a drawing of such a base pattern in the figure on the right.

Let's change this base so that it can be used to sew an oversized dress with pockets or a sweatshirt.

Read in this tutorial:

In this article, I will describe how to build a pattern for a large size women's coat or jacket with a breast tuck with my own hands, and I will also present several of my ready-made PDF patterns of such models of women's clothing for sizes up to 64. This base pattern with a breast tuck can be used for sewing a jacket or coat for a full woman with small shoulders and lush hips.

You should start building such a basis only if you not only already know how to take measurements, have learned their brief designations, but also took measurements, writing them down in the table of measurements.

Watch the video master class on taking measurements, and read everything you need to know about this tailor at the link below.

It will be difficult for beginners to learn the technique of cutting and sewing to master the drawing of this pattern, so you should start with simpler drawings.

In the article, download a free pattern of the base of a dress with a chest tuck for a girl in size 28-36 and read how to build such a base with your own hands for other sizes according to your measurements. See ready-made electronic patterns of women's clothing on this basis.

This same pattern is the basis with which they usually begin learning the cutting technique.

The word “breast” in the name means “for the chest”, and the clarification “from the shoulder section” indicates that the tuck for the chest in other basic patterns can come out of the armhole, from the side seam, from the waist section or from the neck.

All the bases I have listed can be obtained both by modeling the base with a tuck from the shoulder seam, and by constructing them on the so-called "grid" of horizontal and vertical lines.

This base is a ready-made dress pattern or a turtleneck pattern, if you make it shorter.

And if you are on the fitting change the shape of the neckline, you will get a unique model, sewn with your own hands.

The stretch base (pattern) is also ideal for modeling all kinds of models, and also, if you make small changes to it, for knitted products. In the photo on the left you can see examples of dresses, ready-made patterns for which they are modeled on this basis. Download links for all of these patterns are at the bottom of the article.

The article considers two options for building a stretch base: “competent, but complex” and “simple and convenient”.

In the article, read how to build a basic pattern with a tuck from the side seam with your own hands and download ready-made patterns built on such a basis.

This lesson on the cutting technique is quite simple and can be recommended for beginner couturiers who have already learned how to take measurements and remember their letter designations.

! For beginners: For an explanation of all abbreviations and names of measurements, see the article with a video lesson at the link below.

In the article, read how to build a basic pattern without tucks with your own hands and download ready-made patterns built on such a basis.

The basis for women without darts attracts with the simplicity of beginners in learning to cut and sew, you need to understand that the features of this design impose some restrictions on its use.

So, for example, you should not recommend a pattern based on no tucks to girls with large breasts. Even when using stretch fabrics for sewing, in styles without a bust dart, you will have to choose a very large allowance for a loose fit. Otherwise, you risk getting irreparable defects in the finished product or the usual pattern-base for stretch.

Vera Olkhovskaya

The bodice base pattern with reliefs is often used in New Look dresses. The latest trend is the appearance of an adjacent bodice in ethnic style clothes.

This tutorial on cutting techniques for beginners will seem too complicated. It is advisable to proceed to the construction of a pattern of a bodice with reliefs after you have already mastered taking measurements well and remember all their designations.

Vera Olkhovskaya

Warning: according to this article it is impossible to learn how to cut a jacket, since the description contains only the very basis of the pattern without additional details and nuances of the cutting technique. Training in tailoring of classic men's clothing should be done ONLY under the guidance of experienced tutors who are qualified as a "tailor of men's outerwear". Neither "fashion designer" nor "designer", but "tailor of men's outerwear".

The description of the basis is published at the numerous requests of visitors to the site of Vera Olkhovskaya, only in order to convey to them the level of complexity of the issue.

The author of the article is not responsible for unsuccessful attempts to cut jackets by home couturiers.

Vera Olkhovskaya

This article is written specifically for those who are just starting to learn how to cut and sew. You will notice in it details and clarifications that will not be of interest to the masters, as well as simplifications that are accessible to the understanding of the home tailor, who previously used only ready-made patterns for sewing.

This foundation is suitable not only for a slender girl  , but also to ladies with magnificent forms.