In the article, read how to build a basic pattern without tucks with your own hands and download ready-made patterns built on such a basis.
The basis for women without darts attracts with the simplicity of beginners in learning to cut and sew, you need to understand that the features of this design impose some restrictions on its use.
So, for example, you should not recommend a pattern based on no tucks to girls with large breasts. Even when using stretch fabrics for sewing, in styles without a bust dart, you will have to choose a very large allowance for a loose fit. Otherwise, you risk getting irreparable defects in the finished product or the usual pattern-base for stretch.
! For beginners: For an explanation of all abbreviations and names of measurements, see the article on my website
How to take measurements
Download the universal table of taking measurements
Ready-made dress patterns based on no darts
Differences in women's patterns of the base
Before proceeding to the construction of the drawing, we note the differences between the female pattern of the base without darts and the pattern of the base for stretch.
How to build a basic pattern for a stretch read my article on this link...
The main thing is an increase in free fit. At the base without tuck Pg least 6 cm and can reach 12 см. In a stretch base Pg is minimal and can have negative values if you take into account the stretch coefficients for highly stretchy fabrics.
It is equally important to take into account the height of the barrel - wb below in the base without tuck.
What these designs have in common is that the measure rcg missing, and Npp removed, as for a male pattern.
If we talk about the differences in a simplified way, then the base without darts is more structurally reminiscent of a men's shirt than a women's turtleneck.
Algorithm for constructing a pattern for a women's base without tucks
We start the construction by calculating the total width of the base so that it can fit on a piece of paper. If it does not fit, you can make patterns for the shelves and backs on different sheets.
Warp Width = Sat + PbWhere 4 - 6 cm.
We will consider vertical sections as the middle line of the back and half nose - the middle line of the shelf (Fig. 1).
We start drawing horizontal lines from the bottom - we retreat from the bottom of the sheet 3 смto perform lowering of the shelf later and draw a bottom line.
Up from the bottom line Di - original backrest, down from the original - Ds - waist level.
From the waist down 18 см - hips and up from the waist
Dboch minus 2 cm
For blouses with a larger increase from Dboch can be taken up to 4 cm.
Done with horizontal lines.
To complete the so-called "grid" we will carry out some calculations. They can be written in measuring table
Back:
1/2 (Cr + Pg) minus 2 cm - bust width
1/2 (Sat + Pb) minus 2 cm - hip width
ws + 1 cm (if a Pg more 4-x can be added to Shs to 2 - 3 cm) - width to armhole
Shelf:
1/2 (Sg + Pg) + 2 cm - bust width
1/2 (Sat + Pb) + 2 cm - hip width
Shg2 + 1 cm (if a Pg more 4-x you can add 2 - 2,5 cm) - width to armhole
We measure the finished values in the drawing (Fig. 2) on the required horizontal lines and the grid is ready.
The sprout and neck are drawn in smooth lines, after their width is determined at the level of the original lines and the height at the middle lines.
Sprout width = 1/3 Ssh + 0,5 cm
Plant height = 1/3 plant width
Neck width = sprout width
Neck height = sprout width + 1 cm.
Shoulder cut - connects the shoulder point and the lateral point of the sprout and neck. The shoulder point is located at the intersection of two arcs made by radii Dp и VPK - for the back Dp и Npp - for the shelf.
To increase the length of the armhole and be able to wear a blouse with shoulder pads, you can add to the above measurements by 1 - 2 cm. And add more to the length of the back shoulder 0,5 см fit instead of a shoulder tuck.
Armhole points
From the corner of the armhole (it is indicated in yellow) up vertically for the back about 6 cm, for a shelf - about 5 см, along the bisectors of the corners of the armhole for the back about 3 см, for a shelf approximately 2,5. These figures may vary depending on the size. They are especially “sensitive” to the ratio of the width of the shelf along the chest to the measure. Shg2. The more Shg2, the narrower and longer the armhole of the shelf turns out, which is why for busty beauties it is better to take the bases with chest tucks.
Ready-made dress patterns on this basis without darts
Ready-made pattern of a floor-length shirt dress on such a basis
Sizes: 38-52. Sewing difficulty level: medium - the pattern is not suitable for beginners, as sewing will require skills. The style is suitable for different types of figures, including figures that combine two sizes.
Download a ready-made pattern of a dress shirt to the floor
Ready-made pattern of a shirt dress with a length difference
Sizes: 40-52 and 52-62. Sewing difficulty level: simple - a pattern for beginners who have mastered the skirt. The sleeve is non-stop and sewn in easily. The style is suitable for all types of figures of any fullness and height.
Download a ready-made shirt dress pattern with a length difference
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