What is the height of the pattern?
This is one of the most frequently asked questions about my patterns.
All models are suitable for sewing dresses and other products for people from 155 to 175 cm, but ... But it is advisable to check the length of each finished pattern and in most cases it will have to be changed, even if your height is about 165 cm.
Yes, before cutting according to my patterns, I also check the length and change it based on my desires and the length that suits my figure and age.
And the correction of the sleeve length is generally a separate issue! For example, if you are sewing a dress with a long sleeve, then you should consider not only the comfortable length, but also how large your tassels are and whether you will wear bracelets.
I was familiar with one woman of short stature (154 cm), whose sleeve length was 62 cm. My comfortable sleeve length is 57 cm with a height of 165 cm.
Don't forget to measure your DR (sleeve length) and compare it with the finished pattern before you start cutting the dress.
An example of changing the pattern to fit your height
Now about the correction of the length of the dress and the choice of size. For example, when I sewed ready-made kimono dress pattern with pockets,
I added 10 cm to the length and chose the largest size 64, although I only wear the 48th (see photo).
Let me remind you that it is better to choose the dimensions not according to the number, but according to the wishes of the volume of the product. This is not difficult to do, because unlike the "greedy" pattern developers, I am a generous designer and my buyer always receives several sizes.
So, the pattern of a kimono dress has a gradation of 5 sizes, while the larger the size of the product, the greater its length.
This is the simplest example of choosing a size not by number and correcting the length in accordance with the wishes of the couturier.
Length correction is especially important in oversized and boho style products. Large volumes and non-complimentary lengths quite often make the figure heavier, hide growth and visually add fullness.
How to change a pattern with a bust tuck?
Let's take an example with a breast tuck from an armhole on an example finished pattern of a-line dress:
In this model, it is enough to shorten or lengthen the tuck and the overall length to achieve
full compliance with growth and design (Fig. 1).
How to change height in a turtleneck dress pattern?
This is a little more difficult, you will need to take a measurement of Dpt - the length of the shelf to the waist - from the side point of the neck to the waist, on which the linen elastic is tied.
When the measurement is ready, you just need to fold the waist of the pattern for a small girl or cut and spread the pattern for a tall girl, based on the measurement of Dpt.
But, resorting to such a correction of the pattern, you may encounter the fact that, having a small or large growth, you do not need to change the length of the bodice. Here we come to a very important point.
Vertical proportions of the figure
I once wrote a book about the vertical proportions of a figure., with fragments of which you can see for free on my website.
And now briefly. There are three main body types: normal, short-legged, and long-legged. Scientific names: mesomorphic, brachymorphic and dolichomorphic.
If we compare these three types of figures, then with the same length of the body, the "short-legged" legs will be shorter, and the growth will be less than that of the "normal" and "long-legged". Of course, the "long-legged" legs will be the longest and growth will be the highest.
That is, asking the conclusion
The following is stated: growth is more dependent on the length of the limbs and the correction of the pattern for a certain height should be carried out in most cases by adding or cutting the length of the pattern.
And now we come to another point - the height of the chest.
Breast height, height and age
When adjusting a pattern or product, a home couturier quite often may be faced with the need to change the position of the top of the chest tuck.
The tuck from the armhole greatly simplifies not only the process of length correction, but also makes it possible to change its opening and even rotate the tuck by several degrees. Therefore, the tuck from the armhole is my favorite.
Tailors quite often tie chest height to the height of the customer, while it is more related to age.
But let's not delve into this topic, let's get back to growth correction.
Correction of a dress cut-off at the waist
If the dress is detachable at the waist, that is, it has a bodice pattern and a skirt pattern (or a strip of fabric instead of a skirt), the bodice is comfortable
to correct it at the fitting, and not at the pattern stage.
An example is patterns - model "dress-shirt-sun-tatyanka-maxi"
Why sample?
- On fitting, it is easy to accurately measure not only Dpt - the length of the shelf to the waist, but also Ds - the length of the back.
- On the fitting, you can choose a complimentary length of the bodice.
How to make a sample?
- Cut out a bodice with a large allowance up to 5 cm, having collected it, put it on the customer and tie it up with a linen elastic band.
- Mark the waistline with an elastic band or complimentary length.
What is a complimentary bodice length?
For conditionally “normal” figures, the complimentary length of the bodice will most likely run along the waist, that is, along the elastic band tied up for trying on.
For relatively “short-legged” (brachymorphic) figures, which differ in a relatively long torso, the complementary length of the bodice will be 2–3 cm higher than the waist level.
And for relatively “long-legged” (dolichomorphic) with a “short” body, it is better to lower the waist by a couple of centimeters.
Of course, the complimentary length of the bodice comes with other features of the figure and the style of the dress.
This is why fittings are so important.
And, perhaps, the most difficult option for correcting the length of the pattern is maxi dresses.
How to correct the length of the year?
Consider the correction of the length of the year using the example mermaid dress patterns
As you can see, this dress is floor length.
The pattern has a "length correction area", which is located between the level of the hips and the level of the knee.
How to change the length of the year dress:
- measure skirt length
- measure skirt length
- Depending on the measurement results, store in a warehouse to reduce the length or move apart and cut the pattern within the boundaries of the correction area.
Here are the basic principles of length correction for finished patterns for a specific figure.
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