E-book "Cut and sew on any figure"

Vera Olkhovskaya

1.1. Vertical proportions of the figure. Six or eight?

Without going into the details of the debate about beauty, let's turn to the vertical proportions of the figures that are offered by artists.

A conditionally proportional human figure, if we take the height of the head from the chin to the crown as a unit of measurement, consists of 6 - 8 heads.

For example, Greek sculptures depicting goddesses are about 7 heads tall...

Vera Olkhovskaya

In addition to those horizontal lines that we encountered when building the base of the back (height of the barrel, waist, hips and bottom), two more will be added to the shelf: the height of the chest and the level of the armhole for the shelf.

See also free article about how to build a pattern-free basis for full

How to build drawing of a pattern-base for stretch

Note. The level of the armhole of the shelf is needed for all the bases except for the base with a breast tuck from the shoulder.

Vera Olkhovskaya

Girls and ladies with small breasts can use the base of the shelf with side tuck for chest, if the centers of the bulge of the chest are located below the level of the height of the armhole of the shelf on 2 см and more. If the level of chest height is higher than necessary, it is better to stop at the breast tuck or tuck coming out of the armhole (see photo). 1.3.3. how to build a base pattern that is most suitable for a medium-sized bust).

For the base of the shelf with a side tuck, extend the horizontal lines of the waist and hips from the drawing of the back. Then, from the horizontal of the waist, set aside the measurement dpt and draw another horizontal line. It can be considered the original (Fig. 10) ...

Vera Olkhovskaya

The pattern has reached the greatest popularity in mass tailoring. embossed base (or tuck) from the armhole, as it is suitable for all kinds of shapes and sizes, even remotely suitable for the definition of "medium".

There are many differences in the proposed framework. Pay attention to how the increase should be distributed in this case ...

Vera Olkhovskaya

This base is designed for custom tailoring, so fitting is of particular importance here (and fig. 13 below). On the samples I sewed, the pattern showed itself well.

The construction of the shelf begins, as usual, from the initial angle formed by the intersection at an angle 90⁰, the original horizontal and vertical half-slip ...

Vera Olkhovskaya

The choice between tuck and relief may depend not only on the desire of the customer, but also be determined by the features of the figure.

In addition to changing some rules in the construction of pattern drawings, more attention should be paid to the ratio of the proportions of the bulges of the chest and abdomen. It is on the ratio of the bulges of the chest and abdomen that not only the base, but also the style of the product largely depends. Of course, if you are interested in a good fit.

Vera Olkhovskaya

This base pattern is suitable for full and very full ladies, whose chest and stomach are equally protruding. It is worth noting that the base can be used both in its “pure form” for cutting sheath dresses, which are suitable for sewing beginners, and for modeling / designing other styles and types of women's clothing. It “tolerates” the addition of a middle seam of any shape and adapts perfectly to patterns on figures with a relatively small waist, full arms and full hips.

The base can be made on paper or in a patternless way. In the second method, the fabric is bent along, the edges are combined. The middle line of the back is located towards the edge (Fig. 18) ...

Vera Olkhovskaya

The pear is the next type of female figure to look out for with relatively small breasts, small shoulders and well developed curvy hips.

Read more about the types of figures and changes in the formulas of the basics possible in previous chapters.

It is for such figures that the basis of a jacket pattern with a chest tuck and a tuck from the armhole is most suitable. The jacket can be cut both on paper and on fabric.

If you are drawing on fabric, fold it in half with the edge towards you (Fig. 20). Step back from the edges 6-8 cm and draw a vertical line. On it, build the middle seam of the back of the desired shape. Then take care of the horizontals. Step back from the established cut 4 см for a hem and draw a horizontal bottom. On paper, indents from the left and bottom slices, of course, are not needed ...