Country style shirt dress pattern

Instructions for country style shirt dress patterns in small and large sizes

– cutting and sewing at home

Contents of the instruction:

1. Description of patterns.
2. What patterns are included in a set of simple patterns for a country shirt dress?
3. Description of the design of the shirt dress style.
4. What can you use to make a dress - a country style shirt and how much fabric is needed.
5. How to buy and download ready-made simple shirt dress patterns with printing on a home printer or plotter.
6. How to cut a shirt dress using ready-made patterns.
7. How to sew a shirt dress at home - sewing sequence.

Buy and download this pattern

Pattern description:

Dress patterns - country style shirts

Sizes: 40-52 and 52-64.

File format: PDF full size and without seam allowances

After paying for the order, you will receive links to download two files dress patterns - country shirts from 40 to 52 or from 52 to 64 sizes. That is, each position is two files:

1. PDF file A4, adapted for printing patterns on sheets of A4 paper in any program on any device, including mobile phones.
2. Multi-format PDF file for printing on sheets of any size from A0 to A4 on a printer or plotter using Adobe Reader.

The level of difficulty of sewing is high - for a couturier with experience in cutting and sewing.

The style is suitable for figures that combine two sizes.

Pattern is for home use only. Tailoring may require professional sewing equipment.

Photos belong to Lena Khoshek.

Complete set of dress patterns - country shirts

(picture 1)

1. Back patterns – Back Yoke and Back (bodice), Back Belt and Back ZP skirt.
2. Front pattern – Front Yoke and Front (bodice), Front Belt and PP Skirt Front.
3. Pattern of a non-stop sleeve.
4. Pocket burlap – for bodice pockets.
5. Patterns for processing pockets on a skirt: Burlap-valance and Burlap-facing.
6. Cuffs, straps, shirt collar.

The strap pattern is not included in the kit, since the strap is a strip of fabric, a rectangle. How to cut it is described below.

Description of the design of the dress pattern - shirt

This is a cover version of a dress in a pseudo-cowboy country style from the JOLEN collection by Lena Khoshek.

The dress is cut at the waist with a flared skirt that has soft pleats.

The bodice is fitted with a side bust dart and waist darts. The yoke lines are wavy.

Frame pockets on the bodice have a concave entry line.

The collar is a classic shirt shape.

The cuff follows the wavy line of the yoke.

The straps complete the set, although they are not included in the original products. They are recommended for emphasizing the shoulder line if the shoulders are too narrow and/or sloping.

What to make a dress-shirt from

Thin denim would be the ideal solution.

Linen, dress satin, silk and chintz are also good options.

You can use shirt fabric of any color or tartan.

Gabardine and fine dress wool can also be considered a good solution.

The total fabric consumption with a width of 150 cm will be from 340 cm to 400 cm.

For combined dresses, the consumption of “dark” will be from 260 cm to 320 cm

Consumption of “light” - from 100 cm to 110 cm.

For finishing, you can use a ready-made “cord” (from bias tape with a cord inside) or make the finishing yourself from striped or checkered cotton fabric and synthetic cord. Assume that you will need about 10 m of cord. It is impossible to calculate accurately.

If you make the finishing yourself, the consumption is from 50 cm.

In addition, prepare small pieces of clothing leather or suede for processing the corners of the pockets on the shelf. You can choose any other non-flowing fabric.

You will also need adhesive interlining or thin dublerin to duplicate the yoke, cuffs and belt. To duplicate the collar, you can use both collar dubbing and regular dubbing.

To more accurately calculate fabric consumption, it is recommended to pre-lay out the patterns taking into account seam allowances.

It is especially important to perform a preliminary layout if you plan to use a bias cut. For cages and bias cuts, the consumption will be higher.

Instructions on how to buy, how to print yourself and others

How to choose a size without using tables and taking measurements

What height are the patterns for?

How to buy a pattern ready-made electronic pattern

How to print a pattern at home in full size on A4 sheets or on sheets of any other size

How to assemble a pattern after printing

Simple dress patterns, sweatshirts, skirts and pants life size free download

How to cut a country shirt dress using a simple ready-made pattern

Before cutting, as usual, we think through the sewing technology and measure the sleeve length and skirt length.

Before you start cutting, it is recommended to read not only the cutting instructions, but also the sewing sequence.

For a clean finish, you can cut out double yokes and double belts.

But the belt can also be single, that is, overlaid, and the waist seam allowances can remain on the front side of the dress and be covered with the belt.

A double belt means that after fitting, the waistband area of ​​the bodice will be cut out so as not to create any thickening.

In order not to cut out unnecessary parts, the processing features need to be studied before cutting.

Regarding the cuff, it is turn-down and turns over onto the sleeve. This is the easiest way. The width of the cuff should also be correlated with the thickness of the wrist. The correction area on the pattern is shaded.

The pockets on the shelf can be regular frames and this will not affect the cutting. But skirt pockets can be processed with a facing line at the entrance, as in 2 drawing or in the side seam, using only the Burlap Valance piece.

As you can see, there is a lot to think about.

Now about the plank.

The finished width of the plank is 2,5 – 3 cm.

Therefore, in cutting - 4,5 - 5 cm.

Placket length = Yoke length + front bodice length + skirt length + 7 cm on the seams and just in case.

The plank can be cut out using either a linear or an oblique thread. This long bias strip may increase consumption, but the bias strip is easier to process.

The fractional plank is economical, but it is more difficult to process.

Using an oblique thread, in addition to the strip, you can cut out other details. For example, yokes, cuffs and sleeves. Bias cut is especially good in products made from checkered fabrics.

On the 2 drawing The cutting of the “oblique” yoke is shown.

When cutting, which is shown in 2 drawingYou get a double back yoke. Do you need a double shelf yoke or a single back yoke? Decide for yourself.

Seam allowances are 1 cm. Exceptions, as usual, are the neckline, sleeve caps, and skirt waists - no allowance.

At the bottom of the skirt we add an allowance depending on the choice of processing - 2,5 - 4 cm.

It is worth mentioning separately about the allowance at the bottom of the bodice: add 3 – 4 cm for fitting.

Cutting will have to be done in two stages, even if you are sewing a dress from the same fabric.

First stage: fold the fabric across (2 drawing below) and lay out the PP and PP of the skirt. These are the largest pieces and do not extend half the width of the fabric. If the product is combined, then we arrange the “dark” parts in the same layout.

With the “light” parts everything is simple - they are relatively small, so we fold the fabric lengthwise, as usual (Fig. 2 above).

After cutting, we apply marking lines and notches to the cut parts.

How to sew a country dress using ready-made patterns

Let's start with how to make a finishing cord.

Fabric consumption is 50 - 70 cm. You do not use all the fabric to finish one product, although you can try, but it is impractical to collect less fabric, since for the cord you will need strips cut on the bias. And they will need to be stitched and ironed. If there is not enough fabric, then the distance between the seams will be very small, and there will be a lot of seams themselves.

So, having cut out oblique strips 2,5 - 3 cm wide, sew them into tape and iron the seams. Inserting the cord into the middle of the tape, align the cuts and stitch with a single-horned or other special foot.

If you don't have a suitable foot, you can simply iron the binding lengthwise. The finish may be less expressive, but home designers often have to go with what they have on hand.

Below is an approximate sewing sequence.

1. We start, as usual, with folds and darts - we sew down the darts, and we baste the folds. Iron it.
2. Pocket on the shelf: sew a cord or trim along the entrance to the pocket onto the front side of the shelf, as for a “frame” pocket; put burlap on the “face” - baste or pin with tailor’s pins; sew the burlap from the inside exactly into the “leaf” lines; cut like a leaf, turn inside out, sweep and iron; apply triangles of leather, suede or other non-flowing fabric. You can also do hand tacks.
3. Pockets on a PP skirt: stitch the entrance, add a valance, stitch and overcast or edge the burlap.
4. Assemble the shelves.
5. Assemble the back.
6. Finish shoulder seams. There may be options here, and you can choose the one that is most convenient for you.
7. Preparing the fitting: side and waist sections.
8. Fitting. The most important thing is to determine the position of the waist. You can first try on the bodice by tying the bodice with an elastic band. Don't expect a straight line underneath the elastic band. The only important thing is that the elastic is at the waist. Having determined the position of the waist, you can proceed to correcting the armhole, if necessary.
9. After fitting, you can finish the side seams of the bodice and skirt, and then cut off the excess along the waist of the bodice and connect the bodice with the skirt. If the open cuts are “on the face,” then the belt is “applied” only to the face.

10. Process the bar.

11. Finish the cuff and stitch it to the finished sleeve.

12. Finish the armhole.

13. Process the collar.

14. Sew on the collar.

15. Loops and buttons or buttons.