This is a very simple blouse (fig. 1), it is suitable for beginner tailors. Sizes 34 - 44
The model can be made from any fabric: from jersey to cambric.
As a finish (a stripe on the shoulders, passing to the sleeves), you can use a companion fabric, guipure or wide (12 cm) lace.
The maximum fabric consumption for a blouse will be about 120 cm, but if you want to cut out a summer dress or nightgown using these patterns, it is better to recalculate the fabric.
For recalculation, you can use the method of preliminary layout of the patterns: lay out the patterns on the table, as if on fabric, observing the width of the cut, folded in half and taking into account allowances for seams and folds of parts.
Patterns are placed on two sheets.
How to cut on electronic patterns (video)
The list of patterns is in fig. 2. Pay attention to the fact that the PP (front half) of the sleeve is presented in two versions - the whole one in the main variant and in the spare variant the PP consists of two parts.
How to sew and cut a blouse according to a pattern
The cutting of the combined blouse is shown in fig. 3. In fig. 3a - "main" (from the main fabric) details, in fig. 3 b - "finishing" details cut out from the companion's fabric, 3 c - a variation of cutting "finishing" details from lace.
Seam allowances - technological (1 cm) - except for the sprout, neck, armhole and rim, which are cut out beyond the line of the outline of the pattern.
Coquette with a fold along the half-slip - pay attention to the inscriptions "fold" and "fold of lace" in fig. 3 a, b.
When cutting lace, you will have to follow special rules in order to keep the entire width of the teeth, cutting off the excess only in the areas of the neck, armhole and rim on the details.
The remaining sections should be marked with a thread of a contrasting color.
Note 1. If the lace is white, take a light gray or light blue thread, as a bright thread may shed when ironing.
And one more important point: when cutting out the “finishing details” of lace with teeth (festoons), remember that they should look like one single piece.
That is, the points that are combined in the product (the corner of the yoke and the corner of the sleeve part, marked with a red cross) should be at the same distance from the edge of the teeth (Fig. 3c).
In this case, we "forget" about the share direction.
Note 2. We cut guipure without a border of scallops or teeth in the same way as ordinary fabric.
The facings for the neck are cut out immediately from the dublerin according to the patterns of the back and yoke (Fig. 4).
The facing width is 4 - 4,5 cm. If necessary, the semi-skid can be extended.
Facings from dubbing are glued onto the lunges of the fabric left after cutting large parts, and cut out with 1 cm allowances along the shoulder sections and the middle section of the back.
The rest of the cuts are along the edge of the dubbing.
A nightgown and a summer dress do not differ in any way from a blouse at the cutting stage (Fig. 4).
The back and the shelf are lengthened as desired, and an indent is made from the fold of the fabric to the assembly under the yoke.
The width of the indent is no more than 10 cm. The side seam can not be cut.
Details of the sleeve, to save fabric, are laid on an oblique.
We cut out the “finishing” details, as in the first case, from a companion fabric (Fig. 3 b) or from lace (Fig. 3 c).
If you cut a blouse or dress from one fabric and without lace (Fig. 6), the yoke can be combined with the back so as not to make an extra seam.
The PP sleeve is cut out in one piece (see Fig. 2 the main version of the PP sleeve), while a decorative cut is possible in the seam of the sleeve and it is not necessary to grind it - just 3 buttons are enough to fasten the cuts.
Of course, the patterns can be lengthened at will and the shelf can be assembled, as in fig. 5. And if you fold the fabric as shown at the top in fig. 6, you can avoid the need to make a middle seam on the back.
Tailoring a blouse
The back of the blouse.
Overcast the shoulder and side seams, as well as the middle seam, if any. Iron.
Stitch the middle seam, leaving 8 - 10 cm unstitched on the fastener. If there is no middle seam, cut under the fastener.
Shelf sewing
Overcast the yoke attachment and shoulder seam on the front and yoke, if it is made of fabric, and overcast the side section. Iron both parts and stitch the yoke to the shelf. If your coquette is made of lace, without overcasting it, you should put it on the shelf, combining the corresponding cut of the shelf and the contour of the coquette. Details are swept with large (up to 2,5 cm) oblique stitches, then the yoke is sewn with a zigzag-three or a regular zigzag (see the album of seams in the author's groups "Cutting, sewing and free patterns" on social networks).
How to sew a blouse sleeve
Overcast the "vertical" sections and iron the details. Stitch all cuts, except for the concave one, and iron. If one of the parts of the sleeve is lace, it is adjusted, like a yoke, in a zigzag.
Stitch and iron the shoulder sections. If the coquette is lace, then the shoulder section of the shelf can be adjusted to the shoulder section of the back.
Collars and neckline. Stitch the facings along the shoulder sections and iron. Overcast the flying cuts. Overstitch the neckline and overstitch the corners of the fastener. If the last operation is difficult, the facing in the fastener area can simply be folded over and hemmed by hand, and if the back was without a middle seam, the incision can be cut in the shape of a drop and edged along with the facing.
You can sew in a sleeve without stitching in, since this option is a non-stop sleeve (see the author’s website for more details), but if there is a lace insert on the sleeve, you should not neglect stitching in, since the lace on the sleeve and the lace on the yoke should match and look like one piece . The same applies to the finishing strip - its edges must match. After stitching in and sewing in the sleeves, the cuts of the armholes are overcast and ironed towards the sleeve.
The side seams are sewn together with the "concave" sections of the sleeve and ironed out.
The bottom of the product and the sleeve is made in a hem with an open cut (pre-overcast and fold once) or with a hem with a closed cut (without overcasting, fold twice). In any case, it is worth noting in advance.
If you sewed a dress, then at the waist level on the wrong side, you can make puffs from a rubber thread. To do this, a rubber or silicone thread is wound on a bobbin. The lines are made according to the markup on the front side of the product at a distance of 1 - 2 cm.
How to sew dresses of different styles and patterns for them
Patterns of blouses for women
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