Corset pattern for small breasts

Electronic corset pattern for small breasts

The file format of the electronic corset pattern for small breasts:

PDF in full size and without seam allowances.

After paying for the order, you will receive links to download two files patterns of a corset of the gradation of the sizes chosen by you:

1. PDF file A4, adapted for printing patterns on sheets of A4 paper in any program on any device, including mobile phones.
2. Multi-format PDF file for printing on sheets of any size from A0 to A4 on a printer or plotter using Adobe Reader.

Sewing difficulty level: professional, that is, the pattern is not suitable for beginner tailors. Sewing a corset requires specific sewing skills and experience.

The model is suitable only for slender girls and ladies with small and medium-sized breasts.

Consumption: one length of the product in finished form plus 10 cm for fitting and processing.

The sample is sewn on jacquard reguiline. Lining - coarse calico. Doublerin was used as dubbing. The product was duplicated in 4 layers.

How to print patterns life-size on A4 sheets

How to buy patterns

How to choose size without measuring

Description of cutting and sewing

As in tailoring кorset belt, the first and very important step (Fig. 1): after making the patterns according to the pattern, you will make notches along the waist line. They are needed to avoid distortions when assembling the product.

We start cutting the corset from dublerin.

This is important: not from fabric, but from oaklerina!

Note. Choose dublerin that does not stretch.

You can also use collar fabric (dubbing for collars of men's shirts) or glued collar.

Each detail of the "top" and "lining" is duplicated twice.

Therefore, we cut out 2 sets of dubbing: one without seam allowances (from collar fabric or beading), the other with seam allowances of 1 - 1,5 cm (from ordinary dublerin).

Allowances, of course, are not needed only on a semi-skid, since the middle part of the shelf is cut out in a turn and along the center line of the back.

What is the dubbing layer with allowances for?

So that the thin fabric of the corset does not come apart near the seams when you tighten the corset.

Why do you need dubbing without allowances?

The exact contour of dubbing parts without allowances will allow you to very accurately assemble the product and reduce the time for marking and cutting.

Attention! some types of dublerin shrink! Take this into account when cutting the product!

It's good if you use a denser stock for dubbing details without allowances.

It is very important to sign each dubbing detail and each cut, and then put waist level marks on the notches on the patterns.

Pay attention to the signatures of the details (Fig. 1) and to the numbering of the slices: The slices are numbered only at the bottom to avoid confusion and not to make unnecessary inscriptions.

So, we paste the dubbing, which is with allowances for the fabric, and only after gluing we cut out the details of the “top” and “lining”.

Of course, when gluing dubbing parts, they must be arranged in the most economical way, for example, “jack”.

Compliance with the share direction along the part of the middle line of the part is important only for "Back 1" and "Shelves 1".

Once again, pay attention to the cutting and dubbing of the middle parts, which are signed as “Shelf 1” and “Back 1”: “Shelf 1” (1 piece from the fabric of the “top” and 1 piece from the “lining”) is cut out in a spread, and “Back 1” (two parts from the “top” fabric) have a fold along the midline (Fig. 2).

As for dubbing, in "Back 1" it is glued with an interval of 0,3 cm - 0,5 cm along the middle line of the back.

In this model of the corset, there should not be lacing in front, so “Shelf 1” is duplicated completely without gaps.

The most important thing: do not get confused in such an abundance of details, so sign them.

Glue the second dubbing layer (parts without allowances) over the first layer (parts with allowances) and then cut out the blanks without additional seam allowances.

Assembly is not difficult.

We start by ironing, folding the duplicated blanks of “Back 1” along the middle line.

We grind the upper corners of the parts "Back 1".

We stuff blocks for lacing or make loops in other, convenient ways.

Then we grind the details of the “top” and stitch them to the “Backs 1”.

Ironing or ironing stitched seams on big pillow.

We lace up and do the fitting.

If necessary, we substitute cups of the desired shape, outline their location.

The fitting of the corset is performed on the "top" of the product.

We correct, if necessary, along the seam "2".

The rest is regulated by lacing.

We collect the “lining”, taking into account the changes made on the fitting of the “top”.

We adjust regelin at the seams and in other necessary places, having previously melted its sections.

You can adjust regilin both on the “lining” and on the “top”, the main thing is that it is inside the product.

On a printed sample regilin tuned in to the sub.

Please also note that the segments of the regelin tape do not reach the edge of the dubbing, which without allowances is 0,1 - 0,2 cm.

After we have finished stitching the regilin, we connect the “top” and “lining” along the seam “2” and grind the seam of the upper cut.

Between the layers of the "top" and "lining" we attach the cups, if they are provided.

We turn the product inside out on the “face”, baste the upper cut with 1,5 cm oblique stitches, weave the corset along each detail vertically with the same oblique stitches and sweep the lower cut.

You can try again to make sure everything is done correctly.

Then, we connect the "top" and "lining", laying the lines along the "top" exactly at the seams.

Bartacks at the beginning and end of these lines are required.

Carefully iron the product and lay the lines in the seams connecting the parts along the “face” of the product.

We edging the bottom with an oblique trim in the color of the "top" or finishing color.

We remove the notch and iron to remove traces of temporary lines.

Done!