Pattern "dress-coat with undercut"

How to sew with your own hands models of dresses of this style according to the finished pattern

Contents of the instruction:

1. Description of the style of the dress-coat.
2. From what to sew a dress-coat and a set of patterns.
3. How to download and print coat dress patterns.
4. Features of a do-it-yourself pattern of a dress-coat model of this style.
5. How to sew a dress-coat with your own hands step by step.

Buy and download this coat dress pattern

Description of the style of the dress-coat

Electronic pattern "dress-coat with undercut"

Sizes: 42-52 (the buyer receives the entire gradation of sizes from 42 to 52 inclusive)

File format for download in order:

PDF in full size and without seam allowances.

After paying for the order, you will receive links to download two files patterns of dresses-coats gradation of sizes from 42 to 52:

1. PDF file A4, adapted for printing patterns on sheets of A4 paper in any program on any device, including mobile phones.
2. Multi-format PDF file for printing on sheets of any size from A0 to A4 on a printer or plotter using Adobe Reader.

The complexity of sewing is medium if the dress-coat is made without lining and high if it is lined.

This pattern is not suitable for beginners, it is for tailors who have experience and sewing skills.

The style of such a dress-coat looks good on slender figures, as well as on figures that combine two sizes.

From what to sew a dress-coat and a set of patterns

Drape should be used for sewing. Suitable for both thin-clothed (lightweight) and medium thickness. It is also good to use boucle or tweed.

Professional tailors can cut a dress-coat from pile fabrics. Suitable, and vigon, and cashmere, and cotton-based velvet. Of course, in this case, the rules for cutting pile fabrics should be observed.

In addition to the above, fabrics such as jacquard and even jersey will look good in this product, provided that the stretch is very slight, and the density corresponds to coat fabrics.

The set of patterns for a dress-coat includes patterns for the back, front and two-seam sleeves with an assembly along the collar (picture 1). Cuffs, if necessary, are cut out according to the sleeve pattern.

Consumption while maintaining the proposed length of the product will be 3 - 3,2 m with a width of 1,4 m. Consumption of pile fabric - up to 3,5 - 3,7 m.

How to download and print coat dress patterns

How to choose a size without using tables and taking measurements.

How to buy a ready-made electronic pattern.

How to print a pattern at home in full size on A4 sheets or on sheets of any other size.

How to assemble a pattern after printing.

Ready-made patterns of dresses in full size download for free.

Buy and download this coat dress pattern

Features of a do-it-yourself pattern of a dress-coat model of this style

Start, as usual, with the manufacture of patterns.

You can determine the size without taking measurements, according to the finished product.

When the size is selected, the patterns are cut along the desired dimension line. Pay attention to how the sleeve pattern looks (picture 2): the lower half is cut out on the upper half, while a jumper is left for ease of use.

Among the patterns, you did not find the facing of the sprout - we cut it out of dublerin according to the pattern of the back without seam allowances.

Now let's talk about seam allowances.

Despite the complex outlines of the front and back patterns, the same allowances are added to the seams as in products with reliefs (figures 3 и 4).

The middle seam, semi-reliefs, side and shoulder seams, as well as vertical seams of the sleeve - 1 cm. The sprout, neckline, sleeve hem, the drop edge of the collar - are cut out without allowances. Add 3 cm along the bottom of the sleeve and the bottom of the product.

Doublerin is cut out according to the same patterns as the details of the dress-coat.

Which fragments of the shelf and back are duplicated in a lined coat are shown in 3 drawing.

The bottom of the dubbing parts is cut out with large teeth, otherwise the cut of the doubler will be visible from the front side of the product.

A one-piece selection is duplicated completely with a 0,5 cm indent from the dubbing part of the shelf.

The hem allowances on the bottom of the coat are duplicated with strips of dublerin after the side seam is processed. And allowances along the bottom of the sleeve after processing the front seam and after trying on, that is, when the exact length of the sleeve is known.

As for the dress, only the selection is duplicated in it. The bottom can also be duplicated, but this is not necessary.

Layout for cutting dress-coat

The layout of the dress-coat is somewhat unusual, and not only because it is desirable to cut it in two stages (picture 5).

Due to the width of the details of the front and back, the fabric should not be folded along, but across, but also facing inwards. The edges match up.

First, the shelf and back are cut out, then the rest of the fabric is folded in half and the sleeves are cut out. When cutting the sleeve, it is important that the upper and lower points of the front seam are located on the longitudinal thread. And the lower half can be cut out arbitrarily and even have additional stitches.

If the coat dress is sewn from pile fabrics, then the “jack” layout is not suitable - all parts must have the same pile direction. Usually, the pile is directed upwards, but there may be exceptions to the rule.

The lining is cut along the details of the “top” when the front and back are completely processed before sewing the side seam. The sleeve lining can be cut according to the details of the cut before processing. Of course, the assembly of the lining during processing must be laid in arbitrary warehouses.

How to sew a dress-coat with your own hands step by step

The sequence for sewing a dress-coat is as follows:

1. We process every detail of the “top” of the coat: we make the WTO, glue the dubbing if necessary, grind off the semi-reliefs and sweep the warehouses (at the top with cross stitches). Pick-up - iron along the line of the edge of the side, and mark the semi-skid with threads on the front side of the shelves. After that, you can sweep the shoulder and side seams for fitting.
2. Sleeve: WTO, processing of the front seam and basting of the elbow.
3. After trying on, we cut the lining, as it was said, we cut it according to the details of the “top”.
4. Then, of course, the lining is processed, a pocket is made. At the same time, the back is ground with a facing, and the shelf is with a selection (shoulder seams are “disassembled”). The sleeves are connected to the lining separately.
5. The next stage is to duplicate and sweep the bottom of the “top, iron it. Again we sweep the shoulder seams, grind them and iron them. We process the neck. We put the product on the mannequin and “beat off” the length of the lining, after which we process its bottom into a hem with a closed cut. We fix the facing and selection with oblique stitches.
6. Next, we roll in the sleeves and put on the shoulder pads to carry out the second fitting. We outline the loops: necessarily at the waist and at the level of the most protruding points of the chest, then - the missing ones.
7. It remains only to process the armhole and sweep the loops.

Video master class on how to sew loops on a coat.

See also how to make your own coat.

And also how to cut a lining for a coat.