Saddle shoulder pad is perfect for any fashion this season coat, men's jackets, for example, to the popular "leather jacket", pattern which can be downloaded from the pattern store.
The photo shows a ladies' jacket with reliefs from the shoulder seam.
The deflection of the shoulder seam is minimal - 0,5 cm.
Accordingly, the opening of the tuck on the shoulder pad for this jacket was only 1 cm.
The height of the shoulder pad at the cut of the armhole is 3 cm.
And, pay attention: the deflection does not coincide with the relief, if it did, we would not see it.
Recommended for girls and ladies with sloping or small shoulders.
Compared to the classic shoulder pad, the saddle pad allows a sharper outline of the shoulder girdle.
But such overlays may not seem very comfortable to wear, for example, a jacket worn under other outerwear.
You can download a free pattern of a saddle shoulder pad right here (above the text), and see how it looks in a short video.
The manufacture of such a form is not difficult.
First we grind the tuck on the bead, with an overlay seam, then we grind the layers of the bead. In conclusion - we adjust the batting.
Please note that the batting pieces can only be sewn along the inner contour to keep their volume at the armhole cut. In other words, do not reduce the height of the saddle shoulder pad at the cut of the armhole and make it flat closer to the neck.
I will add that shoulder pads of this shape should be made before the first fitting and try on with them.
And most importantly: the maximum deflection of the shoulder seam for such a shoulder pad should not exceed more than 1,5 cm, that is, the tuck gap will be no more than 3 cm.
It is better to mark the deflection of the shoulder seam (place) directly on the fitting, after clarifying its final length.
We have already discussed the issue of how to cut armholeis, however, rather superficial.
A "saddle" shoulder will require you to make a very precise cut.
If you do not have much experience in tailoring jackets and coats with classic two-seam sleeves, you can cut the armhole in two stages: first, the length of the shoulder and approximately the rest - at the first fitting; then I will definitely armhole when the shoulder seam is processed - on the second fitting.
And it would be nice to sweep the sleeve right on the second fitting and try it on the customer again, since this form implies closer attention to the fit of the product.
Coat patterns ready to print
Each coat pattern comes with detailed sewing instructions:
Women's coats Fur coats Jackets Capes
Different styles of jackets in patterns with sewing instructions:
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