Vera Olkhovskaya
Sewing yourself is one of the trends of times of crisis. Most of the questions I get from beginners in tailoring.
A great example of sewing for beginners is the straight skirt.
If you have not yet mastered the construction of a drawing of this universal model (photo 1), follow it according to the description.
How to cut a straight skirt ("pencil")
Or download
paid pattern of a straight skirt with a one-piece belt (the same link contains an article on how to properly process a one-piece belt).
And in this material we will look at a few simple modeling techniques based on a straight skirt, so the pattern will come in handy for you.
Modeling a wrap skirt
(Photo 2)
This model can be made both on the basis of a regular straight skirt and a straight skirt with a one-piece belt (picture 1).
First of all, we will copy the middle part of the skirt pattern - it is shaded in the figure.
Please note: we copy to the second tuck.
Then fold the fabric in half, matching the edges and placing them parallel to the edge of the cutting table.
When laying out the skirt patterns on the fabric, we apply the copied part to the half-skid (or fasten it with adhesive tape end-to-end).
Only small sizes will fit in one fabric width.
Larger sizes will require double the amount of fabric and, of course, the side seam.
Seam allowances:
- On the middle seam, you can add 1 - 3 cm.
- Of course, 3 cm for those ladies who are prone to weight fluctuations.
- Side seam or tuck - 1 cm. To process a one-piece belt, add 2,5 - 3 cm, for the bottom - too.
Next, cut out wraparound skirts that have a different right angle than those with a rounded hemline.
Consider both options
Skirt with a right angle and a one-piece selection (picture 2): add an allowance of 3 - 4 cm, while ignoring the tuck located at the selection.
On fig. 2 it is crossed out with a green cross
Skirt with a rounded hem, as in Photo 2 (picture 3), has the same allowances and the tuck is ignored.
The facing with which the rounding is turned is cut out after fitting.
Therefore, when trying on, it is important to clarify the exact outlines of the edge of the bead.
Let me remind you that the sides are adjusted when the product is folded in half and carefully chipped with pins.
Since only in this way can two completely identical sides be cut out.
We model a straight skirt with a figured bottom and pockets of the "cut barrel" type
(Photo 3)
As a basis, we take patterns of a straight skirt without a belt.
Since the model in the photo is made of a fabric imitating perforated leather, I suggested that it would be better to get rid of the waist darts (picture 4).
PP - the principle is the same - we get rid of darts.
The tuck, which is closer to the half-skid, is translated into the cut line of the barrel.
And the one that is closer to the side seam is cut off from the side.
It remains only to equalize the lengths of the cuts of the two fragments of the PP, for which we lengthen the cut of the smaller part.
To check if the simulation is correct, place your hand on the pocket entry line.
If the length of the pocket entry line is greater than the width of your palm by at least 4 cm, you did everything right.
If less, the line should be omitted.
The next step is to trim the burlap.
Cut the PCB along the pocket entry line. On the 4 drawing it is marked with a red dotted line.
According to the fragments obtained, cut out the patterns of the burlap-valance and the burlap-turning.
There are no hard and fast rules in the development of women's patterns, so use common sense and the size of your palms.
It is better to only outline the line of the figured bottom of the PP, and you can correct it during the fitting.
Cutting such a skirt according to ready-made patterns is not difficult (picture 5), so they should all be ready before you lay the fabric on the table.
Let me remind you that in this case we cut out the belt as a separate part.
And we cut out the detail of the burlap-turning from the lining or any other thin fabric.
On the sackcloth-valance, we immediately outline the line of entry into the pocket with a lining stitch - it will be impossible to assemble the skirt without the entry line.
The seam allowances are the same as in the previous models, except for the waist cut - we cut it out on all the details beyond the stroke line.
Stock - on the middle seam.
And the most important point: before cutting, you need to decide where and what kind of clasp will be on this skirt.
Options are available - in the middle seam at the back or in the middle seam at the front.
If you choose the latter, be sure to add the appropriate allowance.
The left side cut does not fit due to the pocket.
If you are making a fastener in front, it can be processed in a trouser type and you will need an allowance of 3 cm to process it.
In conclusion, advice to novice couturiers.
Try to think over all aspects of processing before cutting the product, and even better before buying fabric, and make a complete set of patterns in order to perform a preliminary layout.
It is important to know what kind of fastener you will have, how the fitting will go, how you will process the seams and whether you need reserves in case of a change in the weight of the customer or shrinkage of the fabric.
Start with simple items. Good luck!
Patterns for skirts
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