Vera Olkhovskaya
Is it worth it to sew a coat, when prices bite so much, and everyone around is dressed in jackets?
Most people who sew themselves don't even think about making their own coats. And many believe that this is possible only after cutting and sewing courses.
This video master class on sewing a coat will help you cope with doubts and fears that you will not be able to sew a coat with your own hands.
First, consider the processing of darts in outerwear, then the WTO of shelves and backs ...
As you can see, darts when sewing outerwear are a little more difficult to process than in a light dress.
I start by cutting out the extra allowance for the chest tuck, leaving about one centimeter for processing.
Then, I baste all the tucks, starting the basting line from the top of the tuck.
For high-quality processing, we need strips of “top” fabric about 4 centimeters wide and 4-5 cm longer than the tucks.
I cut these strips along the oblique thread from the remnants of the fabric.
The darts should be stitched so that the entire basting remains under the line.
Of course, you need to start and end the sewing lines with a bartack, as in a light dress.
Now it's the turn of the middle seam: it should be swept and stitched - and you can proceed to the WTO!
We start the WTO of the back by ironing the shoulder tucks.
On the oblique strips that I put under the darts, I make large notches (see photo).
Notches should go obliquely from the edge of the strip to the top of the tuck.
They should be ironed only on the pillow, laying out the strips in one direction, and the tuck allowance in the other.
Please note that the end of the strip should be located around the top of the tuck. This is necessary so that the top does not stand out on the face of the product.
When the darts are ready, you can iron the middle seam of the back. I perform this operation partially on a pillow so as not to stretch the sprout and shoulder sections. The lower part of the middle seam can be ironed out and rested on the table.
Then, I fold the back in half and start suturing individual zones.
Of course, I again put a pillow in order not to stretch the product.
I sew a shelf in the elbow area along the elbow cut and in the undercut area.
After that, I move on to pulling the shoulder cut in the area of the shoulder point and suturing it in the elbow area.
Basic rules for ironing while sewing a coat
- position the suture area in such a way as to perform suture movements towards you, and position the stretching areas away from you.
- After completing all the manipulations on one side of the back, I turn it over and do the same on the other side of the back. Then I hang it out to dry on a mannequin.
- I perform the WTO of the shelves in the same sequence: first, darts, then a pull and a suture.
The ironing of the tucks is done on each shelf separately.
Especially carefully and carefully iron the top of the tuck.
Then, both shelves are folded together face to face and the darts are carefully ironed again from the side of one shelf and a third time from the side of the other shelf. Now they are symmetrical.
Sutyuzhka is carried out immediately on two shelves. First from the side of one shelf, then from the side of the other shelf.
So, I slightly pull the shoulder cut almost to the bottom and then make a slightly larger pull in the area of the shoulder point.
I also pull off the elbow section and close the undercut area.
See also video lesson on cutting technique - how to cut a coat without patterns
And the first video master class about how to sew a coat yourself - we start by duplicating the shelves and backs
Outerwear patterns for women
Women's coats Fur coats Jackets Capes
Clothing patterns for men
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