Gluing the front and back with dublerin (doubling or dubbing) is one of the most important operations when sewing a coat.
In this video master class you can see the whole duplication process and learn all the secrets of professional couturiers...
Coat pattern for video lesson
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Ready-made full-size coat pattern for sizes 42 to 52. You can print the pattern in any of these sizes. You can sew from any coat fabrics and jacquard. |
We glue dublerin in a coat video
Description of the duplication or duplication algorithm when sewing a coat
Before sticking the dublerin on the shelf of the coat, you should transfer the existing markings to the face of both shelves.
This is easy to do, guided by the notches. It is good if the marking is done not with chalk or soap, but with threads
Interlining stitches should be sewn in such a way that most of the thread is visible from the right side and a smaller part from the wrong side.
More precisely, on the wrong side there should be only small dots.
We will need the inflection lines of the lapel, half-skid and the edge of the side.
The tucks can not be transferred completely, since we need only their tops and bases on the wrong side of both shelves and backs. The tops of the tuck are easy to copy with a needle and chalk, and the bases are notches.
Dubbing, as you already know from my articles, is cut out exactly according to the pattern of the shelf, that is, WITHOUT seam allowances. And in this case, when the sleeve is one-piece, dubbing will be without a sleeve. In the area where there should be an armhole, we will make large teeth so that the dubbing does not beat off on the face, that is, it is not noticeable from the front side.
We cut the cut dubbing along the inflection lines of the lapel and the edge of the side.
Now you can glue!
We glue, as you know, with a hot iron. You can steam at the same time. In modern duplicating materials, adhesive coatings are usually thermoplastic, that is, they do not require moisture during the bonding process. But steaming the shelf is still desirable.
Please note that the dubbing of the lapel is glued at a distance of 5 millimeters from the dubbing of the shelf.
The same with the dubbing of the lower part of the selection - I have it one-piece with a shelf.
I do NOT duplicate seam allowances.
Having finished duplicating the shelf, I additionally glue the edges along the inflection of the lapel and the edge, iron the edge and the lapel.
The pick-up should be ironed through the iron. I do not do this, because I have a good iron coating - the iron does not lasso and nothing burns to it.
The dubbing of the back is very simple - I will only duplicate the upper parts of the parts, going a little beyond the shoulder point.
Dubbing should not go over the shoulder tuck and should not duplicate the seam allowances.
I cut its lower cut with large teeth.
When the parts have cooled and dried, it will be possible to start processing the tucks, make the WTO of the shelves and set them up. I will talk about this in other videos.
Women's coat patterns
Women's coats Fur coats Jackets Capes
We sew for men according to ready-made patterns
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