Contrary to popular belief, the transfer of contours, marks and darts from patterns to fabric often leads to errors than a patternless cut.
In this article, we will consider how to work with tucks correctly and, using the example of a trapeze dress, asymmetry in sizes from 40 to 64, why a tuck is needed, can it be abandoned and how to do it.
You can download the instructions for this dress for free at the link ...
Finely sharpened chalk or remnants will increase the accuracy of the stroke, but it is worth dwelling on the transfer of tucks from the pattern to the fabric.
Let's say we made a pattern. If you cut a tuck on the pattern along the line of the drawing, then the outline of the stroke will shift inward by a couple of millimeters, and the top will “jump” by almost 1 cm.
Therefore, to improve accuracy, the tucks on the pattern should be cut 0,1 cm beyond the stroke line.
Definition: the top of the tuck is at the intersection of the lines of the sides of the tuck with the center line and the horizontal segment that defines its top (picture 1 in the picture above).
The tuck can have two peaks in shoulder products and one in skirts or trousers.
To get the vertex exactly in the place intended for it:
- Draw a horizontal line on the pattern that defines the exact location of the top (picture 1).
- Cut out a diamond with a 0,7 cm edge at the top of the tuck, as shown in 2 drawing .
If the pattern will be used repeatedly, then for ease of storage, do not cut out the tuck completely, leave a small "web" between the sides.
Why do you need a tuck on the shelves?
Consider the example of a pattern of large sizes of a warm winter dress, a-line asymmetry from the footer.
The tuck is needed for a good fit on the chest. Dart from the armhole, thanks to the "oblique" location, allows you to easily adjust yourself if necessary: shorten, lengthen, shift the top, deepen and even completely abandon the tuck.
In addition, the presence of a tuck allows you to choose a slightly smaller size than in its absence, which will help curvy girls not to increase their size.
How to cut such a dress without a tuck
Refusal of the chest tuck should not be considered by happy owners of lush breasts, as well as owners of large sizes.
If you want to ditch the bust dart, try on a sleeveless dress with a shirred dart to determine which option will have the best fit.
If you refuse the chest tuck, which is NOT recommended for the vast majority of women, the armhole can be easily redone from the tuck to the side seam (see the blue dotted line on figure).
But in this case, the armhole will lengthen, and the fit of the sleeve will decrease.
Download the finished pattern of this dress for sizes from 40 to 64
Electronic patterns of trapeze dresses of different styles
Very often this season they sew according to my following patterns of men's and women's clothing:
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