Corset base pattern, modeling, corset geometry and examples of sewn corset products

Links to download ready-made patterns and photos of products sewn on them are at the bottom of the article, and in the article, let's deal with modeling a corset pattern with our own hands.

Modeling a corset according to a pattern-base has some limitations associated with the shape and purpose of the product.

In fact, in the overwhelming majority of cases, the whole process comes down to just changing the outlines of the upper and lower cuts of the base pattern, so we will talk more about the forms and varieties of corsetry than about modeling in the usual sense of the word.

The content of the article:

1. Geometry and modeling of corsets.
2. Variety of corsets.
3. Types of bones in corsets.
4. Ready-made patterns and examples of sewn corsetry.
5. Electronic patterns of corsets, blouses, tops, vests.

1. Geometry and modeling of corsets

On the figure 1a the base of the chest corset is schematically shown, and then the simplest changes in its upper cut - figure 1 b, c and d.

On the Figure 1 e, f You see a corset with cups (Fig. 1 e) and a corset with half cups (Fig. 1 e).

The modeling of the rounded bottom cut is shown on the same models (2 drawing), as well as a conical bottom (picture 3).

The same outlines of the bottom are also found in underbust corsets (picture 4).

On the 5 drawing the geometry of the back of the corset is shown...

The location of the "bones" also has its own geometry, which depends on the shape of the product, its tightening, purpose and, of course, on the type of "bones" themselves.

By the way, the location of the “bones” in the corset may or may not coincide with the seams and darts (picture 6 ).

With the apparent simplicity of modeling, which consists in correcting the lines of the bottom and top of the corset, which can be carried out directly on the fitting, the process of sewing a corset with your own hands is complicated by the choice of characteristics and stock.

2. Varieties of corsetry

So, corsets are:

1. Single-layer, two-layer and three-layer;

1. by type and location of laces or fasteners (front, side, side seams, back, front and back, back and side seams);
2. according to the degree of tightening (without tightening, tightening up to 2 cm, up to 5 ... up to 12 cm);
3. by purpose (decorative, lingerie, base for a bodice, corset dress, etc.);
4. according to the "geometry" of the upper and lower cut (Fig. 1 - 5);
5. in height (breast, half cup and breast);
6. according to the location and stiffness of the "bones", (Fig. 6).

3. Types of bones in corsets

Now about the types of bones, each of which is suitable only for a certain type of corsetry:

1. "Silicone bones" - sometimes called "corset tape". This is a fairly soft, transparent tape. Suitable for corsets with zero tightening.
2. Regilin "hard" - has the form of a braid, the lobar of which is made of fishing line. They simplify processing, as they are suitable for stitching, but they are not suitable for tightening. It happens in black and white with a width of 0,5 to 2 cm. It is sold freely.
3. "Ribs" - metal bones made of a plexus of thin wire, at the ends - metal tips. They are sold in a fixed length, they rust, but they are suitable for products with a tightening from 2 to 5 cm. An outdated version, but sometimes you can find it.
4. Corset bones made of stainless steel with a protective coating - the best option for a corset with a large tightening. Widely used for orthopedic products. Width 1,2 cm. It has a fixed length - 18 cm (article KK 1-18), 30 cm - (article KK 1-30) and 38 cm (article KK 1-30). They are quite scarce in the province and are expensive.

In addition to the above bones, craftsmen fit stainless steel metal rulers for corsets. They are also expensive, but they are freely sold in specialized hardware stores.

See also "What is regiline and corset tape?»

At the end of this short review, it is worth noting that in haut couture products, only the “lower” (in two-layer corsets) or the inner part of the corset (in three-layer ones) is modeled or corrected during the fitting. The "upper" (front) part is performed by tattooing on a mannequin.

4. Ready-made patterns and examples of sewn corsetry

4.1 Corset pattern of a bustier top in linen style

In the photo on the left are examples of sewn products according to this finished pattern

The pattern is printed from a full-size PDF file in sizes from 42 to 54, with cups 13, 14 or 15.

Difficulty level of sewing this top in linen style according to the pattern: medium. The model is recommended to tailors who already have some cutting and sewing skills. For tailoring, it is desirable to use stretch fabrics with a low coefficient of extensibility (that is, which only stretch slightly).

Stretch denim is perfect. The main fabric consumption will be from 40 to 50 cm, depending on the type of cup.

Read instructions on how to sew this lingerie-style corset top and download patterns

4.2 Pattern basis for a small chest for sizes from 40 to 56

In the photo on the left is a corset sewn by me according to my own pattern.

Sewing difficulty level: professional, that is, the pattern is not suitable for beginner tailors. Sewing a corset requires specific sewing skills and experience.

The model is suitable only for slender girls and ladies with small and medium-sized breasts.

Consumption: one length of the product in finished form plus 10 cm for fitting and processing.

The sample is sewn on jacquard reguiline. Lining - coarse calico. Doublerin was used as dubbing. The product was duplicated in 4 layers.

Download the pattern for the base of the corset and read the instructions on how to sew...

5. Electronic patterns for corsets, blouses, tops, vests.

Simple patterns for a summer blouse with a bow for beginners Simple patterns combidress bodysuit with a sleeve patterns of vests "cube" Pattern tunic - trapeze asymmetric cut Pattern dress vest (robe) 40-64 Corset pattern for small breasts Pattern "blouses with warehouses from the neck" Lace blouse pattern