Pocket book - how to sew it yourself

Vera Olkhovskaya

This is one of the simplest types of patch pockets (Fig. 1), which do not require professional sewing skills for tailoring.

Ideal for men's "hunting" vests, popularly called Wasserman vests.

Materials for the lesson affordable book

“The alphabet of a patternless cut. Men's vest»

"Electronic pattern of Wasserman's vest"

Free vest pattern can be downloaded at this link.

The dimensions of the pockets described in this article are 16 x 15 cm and 14 x 15.

For manufacturing, you will need rectangular pieces of fabric 40 x 20 (double pocket) and 32 x 20, respectively.

For the flaps, four 10 x 12 fabric rectangles (for the double pocket) and two 10 x 18 fabric rectangles.

For the convenience of processing valves, it is possible to make patterns according to the dimensions of these parts in finished form (Fig. 2).

Dubbing in such vests is not necessary, but I recommend gluing the valves so that the buttons hold better.

Details from dublerin or non-woven fabric are cut out according to patterns, and then glued onto fabric blanks.

After that, the valves are turned, excess allowances are cut off, the workpieces are turned out and ironed.

Finally, finishing lines are laid along them.

In general, sewing clothes with your own hands allows you to create almost “eternal” good-quality clothes, which will be appreciated by real men who live by the principle:

“If I get caught on a nail, the nail should fall out, but the vest should not tear!”

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Rules for sewing book pockets for beginners

I remind beginners of the rules: paired parts (identical pockets, valves, sleeves ...) are performed simultaneously, that is, we do one operation on both parts and only then move on to the next one.

If there are four parts - simultaneously on four parts.

So, we consider a double pocket (Fig. 3).

After carefully and accurately marking on the front side of the fabric, make notches at all ends of the red dotted line (Fig. 4).

I advise you to mark with a special tailor's chalk or a special pencil.

It is better not to use soap, as the workpiece will have to be ironed and the markings will go away.

The thinner the lines, the more accurate the markings and the better the finished pocket.

Begin and end each line with a bartack. Of course, the threads need strong No. 40 reinforced.

The fishing line is undesirable, as it tears the fabric and the product will be difficult to repair.

Stitch the pleats, making a skip stitch in the area of ​​the visible part of the pocket.

Iron the workpiece, evenly distributing the warehouse, and overcast the horizontal cut from the side of the pocket entrance.

Bend overcast section by 2 cm, iron and topstitch.

Then scribbleare shaded corners.

To make it possible to do this between pockets, cut through the entire shaded middle area, as shown in Fig. 4 (you can zoom in on the picture by clicking on it).

Then, stitch the pockets around the perimeter of the visible part.

Bend and iron the hem along the perimeter of the pocket.

The pockets are ready, it remains to place them on the product and sew.

First, mark out the rectangles on both shelves, corresponding to the size of the pockets in the finished form.

Then, stepping back 0,5 - 1 cm from the top of the pocket, mark the line for attaching the valve.

We carry out the marking from the “face” of the product, but it is advisable to transfer the lines to the wrong side in order to duplicate the corners of the “entrance” and the bottom of the pocket with dubbing strips.

First we sew the valves, then the pockets.

Having completed one pair of symmetrical pockets, we proceed to the next pair, based on the remaining space on the product.

A single book (Fig. 5) is performed in exactly the same way as a double book.

The markup is shown in fig. 6.

Finallyschenie, consider how to grind the valve.

This is a simple operation, but there is a little trick to it.

Before stitching, we adjust the finished valves so that they are all the same size and the open cut is even.

We apply the valve to the marking line with an open cut “face” up and stitch it.

The seam width is 0,5 - 0,7 cm. Then we bend it upside down and lay the second line, which should coincide with the marking line or be very close to it.

Everything! It remains only to put the buttons.

Patterns for men

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