Fold the fabric in half, matching the edges. Place the aligned edges parallel to the edge of the cutting table where you are standing.
Establish one of the cuts. As a result, the osnovirovanny cut should be perfectly even to perpendicular edges.
Opening a men's vest
Opening starting from the back (Fig. 1). The starting angle - the angle from which the drawing begins (in Fig. 1 it is the upper left one), must be straight, so the angle between the edges and the ground cut is ideal for starting work.
Step back from the osnovlennoy cut seam allowance 1 - 1,5 cm and draw the original horizontal line parallel to it.
Down from the original horizontal set aside Ds (measure the length of the back) and draw a horizontal waist, and from the waist - up Db (measure the length of the barrel) and down 5 см. Draw horizontal lines at the waist, barrel level and bottom. In the proposed model, the distance from the waist to the bottom is 5 - 7 cm.
We build the germ on the original horizontal. Its width for the vest
1/3 Ssh + 2,5 cm
Root depth
1/3 sprout width
Middle seam. It may not be if the back is cut out of the lining, but if the back is cut from the same fabric as the front, the middle seam is necessary.
So, for the middle seam at the waist and bottom, step back to the right along 3 см. This is an average value, you may have to deviate more, but it is better to clarify this on the fitting. "Threes" connect a smooth curve with a point at the level of the shoulder blades.
To find the level of the shoulder blades, divide the distance from the midpoint of the barrel level germ into three parts and go up one third. From this point, the curve of the lumbar bend begins - it connects with the "troika" at the waist.
Now turn to the top point of dividing the middle seam from the sprout to the barrel. A smooth bend also comes from it, shortening the sprout by 0,5 см.
Shoulder in a men's vest
Shoulder is constructed as usual: serifs are made with a “compass” and their intersection forms a shoulder point. Of course, instead of a “compass”, a centimeter tape and honed chalk are used.
The first notch: the leg of the "compass" at the lateral point of the sprout, the solution of the compass Dp + vyt.
The second notch: the leg of the compass at the middle point along the waist (if there is a middle seam, then on the middle seam), the solution of the compass Vpk +2 cm.
Such an increase in VPK is necessary, first of all, for stooped and overweight men. In case of an error, you can correct the position of the shoulder cut at the fitting.
Now we will limit the back in width. From the intersection of the middle seam with the level of the barrel, set aside:
back width to armhole W +2 cm
and back width to side seam 1/2 (Sg + Pg) minus 3 cm
Note that both values are plotted along the same horizontal line.
From the end point of the smaller segment along the level of the barrel (Ws + 2), draw a perpendicular with a length 9 см up, and from the end point of the larger (from the middle seam to the side) segment - perpendicular down to the intersection with the bottom level.
As you guessed, the “nine” is one of the points of the armhole, and the right angle at the level of the barrel is the angle of the armhole. The length of its bisector 3,5 см.
The armhole is also formed smoothly, and the side cut with a deflection 1 см.
vest shelf
Extend the horizontal of the barrel by the width of the shelf with seam allowances
1/2(Sg + Pg) + 3 cm + 3 cm
The last 3 cm are the allowances for the seams - the allowance for the back will be 1 cm, for the shelf - 2 cm.
Attention: the seam allowances are located between the back and the shelf, so the width of the shelf itself will be
1/2(Sg + Pg) + 3 cm
To the extreme right point along the horizontal barrel, build a perpendicular line - this is a half-skid. To the right of the half-skid on 3 см position the edge of the bead vertically.
From the half-drift to the left again measure the level of the barrel
W + 2 cm
From the obtained point, raise a perpendicular of length 5 см for the corner of the armhole. Bisector from the corner of the armhole of the shelf - 2,5 см.
Patterns of men's clothing
Now you can build a neck, the width and height of which are the same and equal to the width of the sprout. And in order to make a cutout of the depth you need, measure the distance from the jugular cavity to the point of convergence of the shelves and set aside the resulting segment along the half-slip from the lower point of the neck. After that, you can draw a cutout curve.
The shoulder point of the shelf, as for the back, is looked for at the intersection of two serifs.
First radius Dp
Second radius NPP +1
Connect the end point of the shoulder cut to the point "5" at the top of the perpendicular angle of the armhole with a deflection 2 см and the armhole line can be drawn.
The next operation is a side seam with a deflection in 1 см and go to Figure 2.
Dart on the shoulder cut of the back is built in the same way as on women's products, but since men are prone to a slightly greater stoop, the tuck solution can be increased to 2 cm. The distance from the tuck to the sprout is 5-6 cm, the length of the tuck is 7-8 cm.
Seam allowances: the neck-sprout and the armhole are cut out of the line, the edge of the bead 0,7 - 1 cm, The shoulder and side seams of the back - 1 cm, the bottom of the back - up to 3 cm. The shoulder and side seams of the shelf contain "adjustment allowances" and therefore increased to 2 cm. The bottom of the shelf is processed by turning and therefore 1 cm is enough. Separately It is worth mentioning the allowance for the middle seam of the back. As you can see, it expands unevenly towards the bottom. It is enough to leave 2 cm, cut off the rest.
Pick and turn trimmed after trying on the details of the cut. It should follow the contour of the neck, the edge of the side and partially the bottom. If the vest is made without lining, then you will also have to cut out the facings of the sprout and armholes. The facing of the sprout and the pick-up can be one piece, as in a ladies' vest.
All processing details are cut out from the remaining lunges and therefore can consist of several parts. If the area of lunges for turning and picking is not enough, they can be cut from another fabric of a similar color.
Ready-made patterns of life-size vests
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